Ascent Passport

1. Area — from Krestovyi pass to Shaviklde peak, p. 2.9
2. Peak — Gaikomd Centralny, 3100 m, via South-West edge
3. Proposed — 5A category of difficulty, first ascent
4. Route type: rock climbing

5. Route characteristics:

Height difference of the route: 700 m. Route length: 850 m. Length of sections:

• III category of difficulty — 180 m.
• IV category of difficulty — 100 m.
• V category of difficulty — 160 m.
• VI category of difficulty — 180 m.

Average steepness of the wall part of the route — 65°; average steepness of the entire route — 60°

6. Used belay points:

Anchor pitons — 103 (33) cam elements — 69 (29) rock pins — 51 Belay pitons — 8. Belay points left on the route for organizing rappels:

• Bolts — 8 pcs
• Anchor pitons — 3 pcs

7. Team's walking hours: 16 hours, 2 days, descent — 3 hours
8. Team leader: Loginov Igor Alexandrovich, Master of Sports

Team members:

• Zhigalov Alexander Vladimirovich, Master of Sports
• Krivosheev Maxim Leonidovich, Master of Sports

9. Team coaches: Balezin Valery Viktorovich, International Master of Sports, Honored Trainer of Russia

Zakharov Nikolai Nikolaevich, International Master of Sports, Honored Trainer of Russia

10. Departure date:

Route started: 12:30, August 28, 2017. Reached the summit: 16:00, January 29, 2017. Returned to BL: 22:00, January 29, 2017. Descent from the summit: via the ascent route

11. Responsible for the report: Zhigalov Alexander Vladimirovich, phone: 8-983-574-84-88; Email: 0jog@bk.ru
12. Ascent organized — Ministry of Sports of Krasnoyarsk Krai Gaikomo Glavnyi peak — 3171 m

General photo of Gaikomo massif from the south. From A. Donskov's report. Photo dated November 24, 2015 from BL 2020 m.

1. Team's route: left edge of South-West edge A. Donskov 2015
2. center of South-East wall A. Kharitonov, 1986
3. left part of South-East wall K. Dorro, 2003
4. center of South wall A. Kurochkin, 1983
5. P/П via South-West edge, approx. 5A I. Loginov, 2017 g.

General photo of the summit

• 1 — via left edge of South-West edge, 4B (Donskov A., 2015)
• 2 — P/П, via South-West edge, approx. 5A (Loginov I., 2017)

Gaikomo Centralny peak, 3100 m

January 29, 2017 16:00

Semi-profile of the route from the right

From A. Donskov's 2015 report. Profile photo of the route from the right. Taken from BL 2020 m on November 24, 2015.

1 — via left edge of South-West edge, 4B, Donskov A., 2015; 2 — P/П, via South-West edge, approx. 5A, Loginov I., 2017

Photpanorama of Gaikomo massif

The Gaikomo massif is located in the Rocky ridge of the Greater Caucasus, in the section of the ridge between the Terek River (to the west) and the Assa River (to the east).

Gaikomo Centralny peak:

• Is the third highest peak of the massif;
• Is lower than the Main and Eastern peaks;
• Previously had the name "Girech" in the classifier.

Border and geography:

• Along the crest of the rocky ridge to the Gaikomo peak from the west, the administrative border between the Republic of Ingushetia and North Ossetia — Alania passes;
• The border then heads north.

The ascent route and approaches are located on the territory of the Dzheyrakhsky district of the Republic of Ingushetia.

It is most convenient to set up a base camp in the area of the Besht pass, 100 m before the turn to the border outpost "Besht detachment", to the left of the slope on a clearing 100 meters from the road. There is water at the water intake all year round.

Border passes are not required to reach the Gaikomo peaks, but it is necessary to notify the outpost of your presence in the area.

Stable cellular connection is available with Beeline and Megafon networks. MTC network is also available from the summit.

Weather in the area is stable, snow on the routes melts very quickly.

In winter, after heavy snowfalls, be cautious in couloirs and on leeward slopes — avalanches are possible.

The approach to the route takes 1 hour. Move in the direction of the southern walls of Gaikomo Glavnyi peak along the grassy ridge, 300 m before the wall, turn right on a flattening ridge, above the forest level, and approach the start of the couloir between Gaikomo Glavnyi and Gaikomo Centralny peaks. This is the start of the route.

The route is quite monolithic. The relief is very diverse:

• deep cracks where only anchor pitons should be used for belaying
• large cracks where "camolots" of the largest sizes are suitable
• often found are "sand clocks" and "shells".

Descent is via the ascent route, equipped with rappel bolts.