I. Technical class. 2. Digoria. Eastern part of the Central Caucasus. 3. Laboda Western peak (4300 m) via North-West ridge. 4. Category 5B difficulty (Popov's route). 5. Height difference 1050 m. Length 1440 m. Length of sections with category IV–V difficulty is 628 m. Average steepness of the route is 55°. 6. Pitons driven:

• rock: 70
• ice: 4
• chocks: 107

70. Laboda Western peak via Western ridge (combined route by O. Fedorov, 5A cat. diff., fig. 16, 18). The path from the "Nakhashbita" meadow (group of 4–8 people) to the left-bank moraine under the tongue of the Tsubhuni glacier is described in routes 66, 67. From the moraine, exit onto the Tsubhuni glacier and move in the direction of the left saddle of the Western ridge of the Laboda massif. Having passed along the steep plowed slope of the glacier of the Northwest walls of the massif, approach under the saddle of the Western ridge and climb up the steep ice-snow slope to the saddle. On the saddle — initial bivouac. From the "Nakhashbita" meadow 7–9 hours. On the saddle, turn left and along the heavily fractured rocks of the 180–200-meter Western ridge, alternating with narrow snowy sections (cornices), approach under the I gendarme. From under the gendarme, descend 60 m to the

Moscow Regional Council of the Zeniť Voluntary Sports Society

Ascent

on Mt. Laboda via the western ridge Digoria 1971

Brief geographical, geological, and sporting characteristics of the area

Laboda Peak

Laboda Peak (4314 m) is located on the Main Caucasus Range, between Gese-Tau to the west and Tsiteli to the southeast. Along with other peaks in the area, it encloses the Tana-don gorge. The mountain is situated within the North Ossetian ASSR, in the region known as Digoria. There is no permanent alpine camp in Digoria; however, the area's beauty and the popularity of its routes attract mountaineers and tourists, despite the long and challenging hikes to the peaks and passes. The mountain slopes are covered with beautiful deciduous forests, and there are many narzan springs.

To the Classification Commission of the USSR Alpine Federation

Description

of the ascent route to the summit LABODA GLAVNAYA (4134 m) via the right northwestern counterfort (first ascent) Leningrad — 1971

I. Brief information on the geography of the area, group composition, and tactical plan of the ascent

The ascent to the summit Laboda Glavnaya via the right northwestern counterfort was made from July 5 to July 11, 1971, by a group of climbers from LOS DSO "Trud" comprising:

1. Shevchenko Yu.S. — Master of Sports — leader
2. Shalygin Yu.V. — Candidate Master of Sports — participant
3. Smirnov A.A. — Candidate Master of Sports — participant
4. Lazarev V.P. — Candidate Master of Sports — participant

Ascent Log

to the main peak of the Laboda massif (4314 m) via the Northwest ridge (left edge) 5B cat. diff.

1. Technical category
2. Main Caucasus Range, Digoria region, Laboda massif.
3. Laboda peak 4314 m.
4. The route is combined.
5. Pitons hammered: rock — 132 (with stoppers) and 4 drilled; ice — 21; for creating ITO — 3.
6. Number of climbing hours spent on ascent — 39, on descent — 6.
7. Two overnight stays:
   1. On the ridge before the Utug rock pinnacle — sitting;

Fig. 18 65. Laboda Glavnaya via North контрфорс and North-East ridge (combined route by E. Batukaev, 4A cat. dif., Fig. 18). From the “Nakhashbita” meadow (group of 4–8 people) descend to the Khares River and near the confluence of the Orsdon River, cross to the left bank of Khares. From the river, ascend along the steep grassy slope of the gully, which gradually narrows into a narrow couloir with steep rocky walls (rockfall possible). From the upper part of the couloir, traverse simple rocks and ledges to the right onto the wide talus ridge of the North контрфорс of the Laboda massif. Further along the talus and simple

The ascent to the summit begins from Pakhan Taymazin along the slope along the edge of the Tana-dan river to the entrance to Mount Kubye (2345 m) to the Tana-dere area (3-4 hours). There are parking spaces, if not blocked. From the area's edge to the yakutap's stop, the entrances are on the right along the area's path, the entrance is on the left along the edge between the Tana-dere area and the yakutap's stop and along it to the level of the hourly area. From Pokhno Taymazin 6th from the blockage on the sanad (help? and 6) 6 evenly between (equal and voemunoya Aabodol). We overcome along the even slope, the ascent is steep along the even slope to the north-eastern edge of the rebe. The descent is intentionally done with a rope and rappelling. Along the stops, the entrance to the redopind is in a state of even-redo-boro verunichnogo kulara. We overcome the redopind along the even slope, the ascent is along the amk-nole-nije rebo to the summit along the emame-provad even-dobam even-khon kru-minol 40°–45°. The descent is 6 as hand-held emy-re-ned and emparakhol veres redopyd and redobor kponovs. From the blockage on the pre-vine ekhakh to the veruin-kho 5-4 hours. The descent along the nylu nabse-na to Pokhno Taymazin 6-7 hours.

Recommendations for the climb

1. In the summer, epegm climb with a guide.
2. Kanuvem-benxoni composition of the group should not be aepanu-ni-buan-mkhs.
3. Dpu good weather, movement is better organized with ssoka reanuka Tana- eme and bu-od-os parno umpram, edepukhmts voskhazdenie with enych-em x povehe.
4. On the climb, there are khouxxi, redopydos, 5-4 red khpnoho and op. elakakh

From Northop in early November, we walked on the orange epidote to Cherhodo Upka, our destination. We give it a map rating of 1. From Cherhodo Upka to Holo-Samod (about 8 hours walk) we walked on snow, the terrain was snowy and we had to use crampons on the icy slope. The snow was knee-deep. The crust on the snow was 30-40 cm thick. The chance of an epidote avalanche was high. It was necessary to be cautious. We walked in a group of 6, in a tight formation, with crampons and ice axes at the ready. On the 8th day, in the morning, we reached the summit of Cherhoto Nakhroba. From there, it took 3-4 hours to descend to the base. The descent was challenging, with steep slopes and icy terrain, map rating 2. We used 4-5 ice axes and 5-4 ropes.