- Laboda Western peak via Western ridge (combined route by O. Fedorov,
5A cat. diff., fig. 16, 18). The path from the "Nakhashbita" meadow (group of 4–8 people)
to the left-bank moraine under the tongue of the Tsubhuni glacier is described in routes
66, 67. From the moraine, exit onto the Tsubhuni glacier and move in the direction of the left
saddle of the Western ridge of the Laboda massif. Having passed along the steep plowed slope
of the glacier of the Northwest walls of the massif, approach under the saddle of the Western
ridge and climb up the steep ice-snow slope to the saddle. On the saddle — initial bivouac.
From the "Nakhashbita" meadow 7–9 hours. On the saddle, turn left and along the heavily
fractured rocks of the 180–200-meter Western ridge, alternating with narrow snowy sections
(cornices), approach under the I gendarme. From under the gendarme, descend 60 m to the
right onto a rocky shelf and traverse 100–120 m to bypass the I gendarme ("live" stones).
Behind it, cross a snowy couloir to the right-up and, bypassing the II gendarme along steep
rocks of medium and above medium difficulty, climb 60–80 m onto the Western ridge.
It is also possible to pass the gendarmes along the ridge. From here, along the ice-snow
60-meter gentle slope of the ridge, approach under the First rocky ascent of the Western
ridge. From the initial bivouac 3–4 hours. Here a bivouac is possible. From the ridge, along
an icy shelf — traverse left-up to the couloir. Further, along the couloir on the left side
of the First ascent ("live" stones) — ascent to a snowy shelf and along it — onto the Western
ridge above the First ascent. Along simple rocks, then along the snowy ridge, approach
under the Second ascent. From under the ascent, traverse 200–250 m to the left along a
steep ice-snow slope under the rocky walls to cross an icy couloir (rockfall) and exit onto
the left side of the Northwest edge. On the slope under the wall — bivouac. From the bivouac
on the saddle of the Western ridge 8–10 hours. Further ascent to the Western and Main
peaks is described in route 68. Descent from the Main Laboda along the Northeast ridge
or East counter-fors (see routes 63 or 64). Duration of the route 3–4 days.
LABODA
Fig. 18