Сайрамский

Description of the climbing route to Peak Aytor via Peak Sayram and Peak Arsen along the northern edge with a difficulty category of 4B.

Rafikov I.Sh. (team leader), Vchinnikov S.I., Li N.B., Mendorf V.R. Route: Sairam – Ayutor, NE ridge, to the right. Length 45 km. Height 4724.6 m, 20 hours. 24-25.09.1984. Ascent to Sairam Peak Group's route Sedelnikov's route, 5B cat. diff. www.alpfederation.ru Crux of the route North edge of Ayu-Tor peak (left profile)

Description of the ascent route to Sairam peak via the 2nd buttress of the North wall in the Western Tian Shan, category of difficulty 5B.

Ascent Passport Region: Western Tien Shan, Ugam Ridge. 7.11 Peak name: Sayram, route name: via the 2nd buttress of the North face. Difficulty category: assumed 5B, 2nd ascent. Route characteristic: rock. Route height difference: 813 m, route length: 1127 m, section lengths: V difficulty category — 504 m, VI difficulty category — 73 m, average steepness: main part of the route — 77°, entire route — 72°. Pitons left on the route: total — 4. Pitons used on the route: | Rock | Bolt | Nuts | Ice | | :--: | :--: | :--: | :-: |

First ascent of a new route, category 5B, via the right buttress of the North face of Sayram peak (4238 m) in Ugam Range, Tian Shan.

Ascent Passport Tian-Shan, Ugam ridge, Sayram-Su gorge, 7.11. Name of the peak: SAYRAM, route via the right buttress of the North face. Assumed to be 5B cat. sl. First ascent. Nature of the route: rock. Height difference: 913 m. Route length: 1127 m. Length of sections: V cat. sl. — 504 m. VI cat. sl. — 73 m.

Description of the ascent route to Peak Sayramskiy (4228 m) via the western counterfort of the northern wall, category 5B difficulty.

Ascent Passport Ascent class - rock Ascent area - range; Western Tian Shan, Ugam range Peak, its height, ascent route - Sayramsky peak, 4238 m, via the western counterfort of the northern wall. Estimated difficulty category - 5B Route characteristics: height difference - 730 m length of sections with 5-6 difficulty category - 404 m average steepness - 70° Pitons hammered: for belaying, for creating RTO

Description of the ascent route to Sairam Peak (4238 m) via the center of the northern wall, category 6B difficulty.

Ascent Logbook I. Ascent category: Rock climbing Ascent area, ridge: Western Tian Shan, Ugam Ridge. Peak, its height, ascent route: Peak "Sairam" 4238 m, via the center of the north face. Proposed difficulty category: sixth, 5B Route characteristics: height difference — 830 m length of sections with 5B–6 difficulty — 485 m average steepness — 76° Number of pitons: for belaying, for creating artificial anchors

Description of a Category 5B route to Sayram Peak (4238 m) via the Central Bastion of the North Face in Tian Shan.

I. Climbing type: rock, Climbing area: Tian Shan, Ugam Ridge, Sairam Peak, 4238 m, via Central Bastion of North Face, rock climbing, Proposed complexity category: 5B, Route characteristics: elevation gain — 910 m, length of sections with 5–6 cat. difficulty — 565 m, average steepness — 68°, Number of pitons: rock — 72, protection devices No. 124, ice — 0, bolt — 0

Climbing passport for the "Sanramskiy" peak, 4238 m, in the Ugam Range, Western Tian-Shan, a combined route of 5A difficulty category.

Ascent Passport I. Ascent class – combined Ascent area – Western Tian-Shan, Ugam Ridge Peak, its height, and ascent route: p. "Sairamskiy" 4238 m, via left couloir of N slope Expected difficulty category: 5A Route characteristics: height difference – 780 m; average steepness – 70°; length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category – 270 m. Pitons hammered:

First ascent description of the route with 5A category of difficulty to the summit of Sayram (4238 m) in Ugam Range via the right counterfort of S wall.

Ascent Passport Area: Western Tien Shan, Ugam Ridge, 7.11. Peak name: Sayram, route name: via the right 3rd buttress of the N wall (4238 m). Difficulty category: approximately 5A, first ascent. Route characteristics: combined. Height difference of the wall section: 574 m, route length: 1420 m, wall section length: 620 m, section lengths: 5th difficulty category – 290 m, 6th difficulty category – 20 m, average steepness of the wall section: 69°, entire route: 60°. Hooks left on the route: total – 1.

Description of the route to Peak Pioner via the eastern ridge, category 3A, climbed in 1987.

Route Description to to p. Pioneer via the Eastern ridge, approximately category 3A difficulty, completed on August 20, 1987. Departure from the base camp at 6:00 AM, travel time to the 1st lake is 1.5–2 hours. From the 1st lake: Bypass the northwestern ridge from the right along the scree slope, heading towards a large, wide scree couloir. When ascending the scree couloir, stick to its left side, close to the slabs. Here is the 1st control point — the beginning of the route. Further: Along the ridge for 40 m, simultaneous movement to the 1st gendarme. The gendarme is bypassed on the right via a steep, inclined ledge (400 m).