REPORT

on the ascent (first ascent) of p. Zvezdniy via the right part of the South wall (proposed 5A(5B) category of difficulty) I suggest considering it as 5B for the group. Balezin V. V. Participants:

• Smaikina S.V.
• Kovaleva A.V.
• Coach Temerev I.M.

ASCENT PASSPORT

1. Region: Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge, section number according to the 2008 classification table – 6.2

Ascent Passport

1. Region — Western Sayan, Ergaki Ridge, p. 6.2
2. Summit — Zvezdny, 2265 m, via "Cosinusoid" on the NE wall
3. Proposed — 5B category of difficulty — first ascent
4. Route type — combined
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 570 m, total route length — 1020 m, wall section length — 670 m, sections with 6th category of difficulty — 320 m, 5th category of difficulty — 90 m, average steepness of the entire route — 63.3°, wall section — 64.8°, 1st bastion — 51.5°, 2nd bastion — 72.2°.
6. Equipment used on the route: anchor pitons — 107/85, 2 left on pendulum swings, 4 on rappels, camolots — 82/92, about 165 ITOS on "fifths", about 16 ITOS on skyhooks, 2 ITOS on bolt pitons, 7 bolt pitons hammered and left, 3 ears twisted, 4 ears left, on all stations for platform installation and one intermediate key section.
7. Number of climbing hours — 37.5, days — 5. Descent 5.5 hours via Temerev I.'s route, 6A category of difficulty. Overnights — 4, all on the wall platform.

Report

On the first ascent to the summit of Zvezdny via the right part of the northeast wall 6A category of difficulty by the team from Krasnoyarsk Krai (REDFOXTEAM) from October 11 to 14, 2019

I. Ascent Passport

Peak Zvezdny

2265 m

REPORT

of the Tomsk region team (TFA) on the first ascent of the route to Peak Zvezdny via the center of the NE wall "6A" (rock climbing)

Participants:

Temerev I.M., Lebasov E.M., Kopytov F.A., Kovaleva A.V., Novosseltsev A.V. Tomsk – 2013

ASCENT DETAILS

1. Sayan Mountains, Western Sayan, 6.2.13
2. Peak Zvezdny, via the center of the northeast wall.

PASSPORT

1. Rock class.
2. Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge.
3. Zvezdny Peak, 2265 m, via W. ridge.
4. Proposed 3B cat. dif., first ascent.
5. Route characteristics:
   • Elevation gain 450 m
   • Length 1160 m
   • Length of sect. 5 cat. dif. 55 m, 75°
   • Average steepness 45°

Ascent Passport

1. Area — Western Sayan, Ergaki Ridge, p.6.2
2. Peak — Zvezdny, 2265 m, via the right part of the 3rd wall, "Tred" route
3. Claimed — 5A cat. diff. — first ascent
4. Route type — rock climbing

5. Route Characteristics:

elevation gain — 315 m, total route length — 328 m, length of 6th cat. diff. sections — 170 m, 5th cat. diff. — 75 m, average steepness of the entire route — 65.4° 6. Equipment used on the route: anchor pitons — 41/35, 1 left behind, broken, on the mid-shelf, camalots — 51/32, about 35 IT0 on "fifas", about 9 IT0 on skyhooks, 1 IT0 on a bolt. 7. Total climbing hours — 8 h 45 min, days — 1. Descent 2 h via Lebedev's route, "Kant", 5A cat. diff. No overnight stays

Passport

1. Rock class.
2. Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge.
3. Zvezdny Peak, 2265 m via the South-West edge.
4. Proposed — 5A category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain 315 m, length 340 m, length of section 5–6 category of difficulty 210 m.

Ascent Passport

1. Region: Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge, section number according to the 2001 classification table - 6.2
2. Peak: Zvezdny 2265, via the chimney on the South face, 5A
3. Route type: rock
4. Route elevation gain: 320 (by altimeter) Route length: 450 m. Length of sections:
   • V difficulty category – 120 m.
   • VI difficulty category – 150 m. Average steepness:

PASSPORT

1. Rock class.
2. Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge.
3. Peak Zvezdny, 2265 m via the South-West edge.
4. Proposed — 5A cat. dif., first ascent.
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain 315 m, length 340 m, length of section 5–6 cat. dif. 210 m,

Climbing Passport

1. Center of Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge, 6.2.
2. Zvezdny peak, via S wall center (via "Mirror")
3. First ascent, 6A category of difficulty.
4. The route is rocky.
5. Elevation gain along the route according to altimeter — 350 m. Route length — 500 m. Length of sections:

• V category of difficulty — 50 m
• VI category of difficulty — 300 m. Average steepness:
• main part — 84°