Адамташ
Route Description: из ЮВ цирка
Description of the mountain route category 2A to the summit Adamtash 4700 m with details about the terrain, belay and participants of the 1979 trip.
- The summit, its height and the route: Adamtash 4700 m from Big Cirque.
- Assumed category of difficulty: 2A
- Characteristics of the route: height difference 400 m, average steepness 40–45° length of sections R1–R200 m, R2–R450 m, R3–R50 m
- Pitons hammered: for belay — 2 rock pitons
- Number of walking hours: 6 hours — ascent, 3 hours — descent
- Number of overnight stays and their quality: a site on the base in the cirque (4300 m)
- Full name of the leader and participants, sports qualification: Daruga V. K. — 1st sports category, senior instructor, Miglinayte G. A. — participant
- Team coach: Daruga V. K.
Route Description: В ребру
Ascent to Adamtash peak via the Eastern ridge, complexity category 4a, detailed description of the route and descent.
V. ADAMTASH, 4A, via the Eastern Ridge (V. Korotkov's route, 68)
From the Big Alaudin Lakes, follow the trail towards the Mutny Lakes until the turn to the Adamtash Pass. Go around the spur (on the right or left) and approach a characteristic white wall in the lower part of the spur above a large green shoulder. The landmark is a waterfall to the right. Here is the 1st control point. Put on climbing shoes and tie in here. R0–R1: 40 m at 70°, moderately difficult rock with good holds. Then enter a chimney (7–8 m) and continue to a black wall; bypass it and reach a ledge. Alternate belay. R1–R2: 100 m at 45°, moderately difficult rock. Alternate belay. R2–R3: 120 m at 30–40° scree, exit below a wall. Simultaneous movement. R3–R4: An internal corner (40 m at 70°) with loose rocks. Then move 10 m straight up and then 5 m right along a ledge, followed by 10 m left and up a slab. The landmark to the left is a grey wall. Continue 40 m right and up at 80°, then 80 m up ledges at 60°, and 40 m of difficult climbing at 85–90° with piton protection. R4–R5: Traverse left (30 m) and 50 m along the left side of the spur. The rocks are sharp with few cracks. Exit onto a saddle via a path of II cat. diff. R5–R6: Traverse left towards the visible col before the wall of the South-Eastern Ridge. Alternate belay. Then 40 m along a smoothed slab. Exit onto the ridge via scree (snow in June). 40 m. Cross over to the South-West slope. R6–R7: 200 m at 30–40° along scree ledges towards the rusty-red rocks on the left side of the wall. Simultaneous movement. R7–R8: Easy climbing on moderately difficult rocks (250 m at 40°). Alternate belay.
Route Description: С гребню
Description of the ascent route to the Adantaii peak from the northeast through the Adantaii pass, indicating the categories of difficulty and details of the route passage.
Ascent to the peak Adantai from the NE via the Adantai Pass, 45 km/tr.
I. From a night's stay at 6:00, along the moraine under the Adantapa Pass to the pass (base camp on Dvshakho Lake). 2. 80 m up to the first ascent, which is located on the left on snow (40 m) to an internal corner (80°) with a crevasse (height 5–6 m). 3. Climb up the internal corner (difficult climbing), insurance from the snow through an ice axe (2–3 sections). 4. Upwards — to the right on easy rocks (grade 3–4) to the ridge under
- the second ascent, which is a steep section of the ridge with two overhangs, one under the other in the upper part (grade 4–5).
Route Description: С гребню
Description of the ascent route to the summit along the northern and eastern ridges with a detailed description of the challenging sections and descent options.
- I. 5 ropes left — up, further up (40–50°) — 2 ice and 2 rock pitches are solid (grade 7–8). The northern trough expands and turns into a steep slope, resting against the junction with the eastern ridge near the tower's summit. IО. Up monolithic slabs (50°), few holds (only thin pitons go in) (4 ropes — 9 pitons, grade 8–9). II. One rope of snow and rock — medium difficulty rock — left and up, bypassing the pre-summit tower (grade 9–IО) via 3 ropes of Alpine rock, exit onto the ridge.
- One rope along the ridge (3 pitons, grade I0 — II). Then 3 ropes on disintegrated rocks to the eastern summit.
- Descent from the E summit to the pass (last 15 m on a rope) and ascent to the main summit along the wide main ridge (grade: II — 12)
- Descent initially via the ascent route to the ridge fork. Further down along the eastern ridge to the Алаудин valley — right and down. Slabs and scree on them. Last 2 ropes before reaching the shoulder of the eastern ridge — descent on a rope with retrieval.
- From the shoulder to the very bottom, scree goes with outcrops of "ram's teeth" — I valley of Алаудин valley (6 pitons on descent). запасной вариант спуска — на переходе между Адан-кни and п. Прошехуточный (3 km/h). First ascenders recommend making it the main descent route. They estimate the ascent at 2000 m, 4 hours.
Route Description: С гребню
Route to the summit of Kopman (43° N, Caucasus) via N. ridge of W. Apseron, with a detailed description of the path and technical details.
43
(50) N. West b. Apsheron, t. Kopman, N. Kozerog. Tserkovnoye, L. Kopatketo
(cm)
Route Description: С стене В ребра
A description of the technical ascent to the summit of Adamtash (4700 m) via the north wall and east edge in the Fann Mountains, with a difficulty category of 5B.
ASCENT DOCUMENT
I. Ascent classification: technical 2. Region: Fan Mountains 3. Adamtash, 4700 m, via N wall, E edge, rock 4. Estimated difficulty category: 5–6 5. Route characteristics: (Measured by Shataev) Height difference /wall section/: 325 m Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category: 358 m Average steepness: 75°
Route Description: С стене В ребра
Description of the passage of a 5B category route to the summit of Adamtash (4700 m) via the North-Eastern wall in Pamir-Alay.
PASSPORT
I. Technical class 2. Pamir-Alay, Zeravshan ridge 3. p. Adam-Tash, 4700 m, via N face, E edge 4. 5B cat. dif., third ascent 5. Route characteristics: elevation gain 630 m, length 980 m, sections of 5-6 cat. dif. 380 m average steepness of the main part of the route 75° 6. Pitons used: rock 10/3
Route Description: С стене В ребра
Ascent to the summit of Adam Tash (4700 m) via the North-East wall, grade 5B, third ascent.
PASSPORT
I. Technical Class 2. Pamir-Alay, Zeravshan ridge 3. Pik Adamtash, 4700 m, via N. slope of E. ridge 4. Category 5B, third ascent 5. Route characteristics: elevation gain 630 m length 980 m length of sections with category 5-6 difficulty 380 m average steepness of the main part of the route 75 °
Route Description: В ребру, траверс
### Kulikalon Wall Traverse in the Fann Mountains The traverse of the Kulikalon Wall in the Fann Mountains, accomplished in 1968 by the LOS SDSO "*Burevestnik*" team. This documentation provides a detailed description of the route and its technical characteristics.
To the Classification Commission under the USSR Alpine Federation and the USSR Central Sports Club, Moscow.
Description
Traverse of the Kulikalon Wall (v. Adamtash – p. Promezhutochny – East Mirali – Main Mirali – Main Maria – Uzlovaya Maria – West Maria – v. Bezymyannaya – p. 4300 – v. Aurondag – v. Zierat) with ascent to v. Adamtash via the Eastern Edge. Approximately 50 km of technical terrain. Fann Mountains, Pamir-Alai, 1968.
1. Data on Traverse Participants
The traverse of the Kulikalon Wall was completed by the LOS SDSO "Burevestnik" team consisting of: Traverse leader: Vadim Aleksandrovich Korotkov, born 1940, CMS, engaged in mountaineering since 1959. Traverse participants:
Route Description: В ребру, траверс
Report on traversing the Kulikalon Wall from Adam Tash peak to Zierat peak via a Category 5B difficulty route.
XVIII EAAC (CIS) Alpinism Championship
Report on the Route Completion
Traverse of the Kulikalon Wall from v. Adamtash to v. Zierat, along the Eastern ridge, 5B category, V. Korotkov's route, 1968, completed by the team of the Tomsk Alpinism Federation's training camps Yuzhno-Sakhalinsk, 2009
Ascent Passport
- Pamir-Alay, Zeravshan ridge, Fan Mountains, 5.3.1, Alaudin and Kulikalon gorges.
- v. Adamtash – v. Zierat, along the Eastern ridge, traverse.
- 5B category, V. Korotkov, 1968.
- Route type: combined.
- Height difference along the route sections: