REPORT

On the first ascent to the summit of Kullumkol

VIA THE ROUTE "NORTH-WESTERN SLOPE" CAT. 3B BY THE TRAINING DEPARTMENT OF THE ALPCLUB "POLITECHNIK" ON AUGUST 1, 2022 St. Petersburg 2022

I. Ascent Passport

Climbing Passport

Appendix I

1. Climbing type — rock.
2. Climbing area: spurs of the main Caucasian ridge from Chiperazau pass to Kitlod pass.
3. Peak, its height and ascent route: Termen-bashi — 4050 m via the northern counterfort.
4. Expected difficulty category — 3–4B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 500 m average steepness — 50° length of sections:

I.

1. Climbing type — rock climbing.
2. Climbing area — Main Caucasian Range and its spurs from Chipperazau Pass to Kitlod Pass.
3. Peak — West Sullukol (4100 m) via the West Ridge.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 3B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 780 m, average steepness of the pre-summit tower 55–60°, length of 5th category difficulty section — 15 m.
6. Pitons hammered: rock — 15 pieces.
7. Number of travel hours — 8 hours, from the start of the route to the summit — 5 hours (group — 6 people).
8. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics: Overnight stays below the summit on the ridge, a site for one tent, water is absent. On a slab near the second control tour. Water is absent, snow.
9. Head of the ascent — Khatskevich I.G. — Master of Sports of the USSR, participants: Nikulin M.G. — Master of Sports of the USSR, Kazanovitch V.A. — 1st sports category, Tretyakov V. — 1st sports category, Zaporozhchenko Z.V. — 1st sports category, Gaevoy V.A. — 2nd sports category.

ASCENT LOG

1. Type of ascent — sport climbing. First ascent.
2. Region of ascent — Caucasus, Adyrsky spur of the Main Caucasus Range.
3. Ascent route with indication of peaks and their altitudes — Sullukol-bashi 2nd eastern peak via the South face, altitude 4259 m.
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 4B cat. diff.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 510 m average steepness — 47° Length of sections:
   • R1 — 80 m
   • R2 — 60 m

Fig. 12

но­сти 30–35 м straight up. Да­лее 80 м вверх по кру­тым ска­лам сред­ней труд­но­сти Во­сточ­но­го ре­бра and along a 20-meter vertical difficult chimney to ascend to a slanting shelf. Along the shelf, traverse under the wall to the right to a vertical cleft. Up a difficult 20-meter cleft in the wall (the key point of the route) to ascend to a slanting shelf. From the shelf, along icy rocks 25 m up to a rocky site on the Во­сточ­но­го ре­бра. From the site, 250–300 m up and to the right along a snowy ridge, then along the slope. Then, traverse up and to the right through an icy-snowy couloir and move to the right onto rocky shelves. From the shelves, 1215 m:

• up and to the right along moderately difficult, разру­шен­ным ска­лам,

109. Sullukol via the East Ridge of the East shoulder (combined route, G.­Kobidze, cat.4B, fig. 5, 12). The path from the Djailyk alpine camp (group of 4–6 people) or from Tyrnyauz to the initial bivouac at the sites near the Severny Sullukol glacier waterfall is described in route 106. Leave the bivouac for the Severny Sullukol glacier (departure at 2–3 am due to possible rockfall in the lower part of the route) and proceed to the icefall. Traverse the icefall to the left, and above it, reach a small upper ice-and-snow plateau of the glacier. Traverse the plateau, then ascend a gentle 500-meter ice-and-snow slope (closed crevasses) upwards-left to the ice-and-snow pad of the East Ridge of

186. Sullukol via the left counterfort of the North face (D. Sukhodolsky's route, cat.4B)