Ascent Record

1. Altai, Aktru gorge, section 1.
2. Aktru peak, 4044 m, via the South slope.
3. Proposed category: 2B, first ascent.
4. Route type: combined.
5. Elevation gain: 500 m, distance: 700 m, average steepness of the main part: 45°.
6. Pitons used: 2 rock, 2 ice.
7. Team's total climbing hours: 5 hours.
8. Leader: Afanasiev A.E., Candidate Master of Sports. Team members: Shakleev V.I., Candidate Master of Sports, Morozov V.V., Candidate Master of Sports.

Peak Aktru, via the East ridge from Bolshoy Aktru glacier, cat. III

From the camp... From the moraine lake, move along the edge of the Bolshoy Aktru glacier along the slopes of Stazerov Peak. The glacier is heavily crevassed, so move in rope teams until the couloir between Stazerov Peak and the large gendarme on the East ridge of Aktru Peak. Climb the couloir through the ruined rocks on the left-hand side of the couloir and reach the lowest point of the East ridge (2–2.5 hours). Follow the easy ridge to the large gendarme (control cairn) and continue in the direction of the summit until the pre-summit rise. The snowy-icy rise is the key section of the route (time 2–2.5 hours). Before the snowy-icy rise, there is a gendarme with a 5-meter rock wall (set up belay). The snowy-icy ridge goes up like a sickle. Move along the left part of the ridge. In the lower part, there is snow on the ridge, which

в. АКТРУ, east wall, 4A cat. dif. (according to the report on the first ascent, Tsybkin L.P., July 1959) Approach from GMS Aktru through the Uчитель pass to the Kuрумду gorge. Crossing the Kuрумду icefall:

• Crossed from the right along the edge of the rocks в. Kuрумду in teams.
• Time to cross the icefall — 1 h. Overnight stay on the scree under the wall в. Актру. Time from GMS Aktru to the overnight stay — 7 h. The route to the summit goes along the rocky ridge, divided by snow and ice sections into five rocky islands. The height of the wall — 800 m.

Traverse Korumdu - Aktru 4A cat.

Approach from Aktru base in Ak-Su gorge - 3 - 2.5 hours. The beginning of the route is the exit to the ridge of the Korumdu massif (orographic left ridge in the Ak-Su valley). Recommended exit to the ridge at the border of the greenery with the scree. Movement along the 2-kilometer destroyed scree ridge with numerous small gendarmes is not difficult and does not require insurance. There are at least three places for overnight stays on the ridge (with platforms for tents). The penultimate gendarme on the rocky part of the ridge is overcome along a crack with hook insurance (1 rope). After bypassing the last gendarme, there is a descent to the left to a small blue lake, after which the main, complex combined part of the route begins. At the lake, at the subsequent two snow-ice pockets of the ridge, there are convenient places for overnight stays. The main ice ascent (4 ropes - 40°) is overcome with a slight traverse to the right. In the left part, rockfall is possible from the rocks located above, even in the morning hours. After exiting onto the snowy ridge and a short ice ascent (1 rope) - exit to the firn field of the ridge, approaching from the right. Further movement is to the left: first along the snow, then along the steep firn (3 ropes). A relatively small rocky gendarme is bypassed on the right, then:

V. Radistov (V.) via the couloir from the south. A.V. Altai. May 8, 1991

Passport

1. Class — snow-ice.
2. Altai, Severo-Chuysky ridge, Aktru gorge.
3. V. Radistov (V.) via the couloir from the south.
4. Proposed category 1B, first ascent.
5. Height difference 1650 m, length 10 km (from the base camp at GMS Aktru).
6. Moving time 7 hours.
7. The ascent was made by a team of two. Drakin A.V. CMS.

Passport

1.2. North-Chuya Range, Aktru gorge. EXISTING: "1.2.54 Radistov (V) 3750 1B from the south via Akturu couloir. A. Drakin, 91"

Proposed Reclassification of the Route

1.2.54 Radistov (V) 3523 2A category of difficulty to the south couloir of the eastern ridge Note: height (3522.7) - according to the published map M 1:50000. Altitude difference according to the group's altimeter: 3550–2930 = 620 m. Route length – 1,200 m (estimated); including category III difficulty – 290 m up to 40°. Average steepness of the entire route – 30°. Used in total for the ascent: ice screws – 6 rock stoppers and rock pitons — none

Passport

1.2. North Chuya Range, Aktru gorge. Radistov (E) 3523 via the left part of the northern slope of the eastern ridge. Proposed: Category 2B difficulty, first ascent. Route character: ice-snow. Note: height (3522.7) - according to the published online map M 1:50 000. Altitude difference according to the group's altimeter: 3530–2940 = 590 m. Route length – 1100 m (estimated); including: Category III difficulty – 140 m up to 50°. Average steepness of the route – 33°.

Passport

1. Gorny Altai, Severo-Chuysky Ridge (a/l "Aktru").
2. p. Radiostov Vostochnaya (3750 m) via the ice gully on the northern slope and the western ridge.
3. Proposed 3B category difficulty (first ascent). Route length 1230 m. Height difference 650 m. Average slope: — main part of the route — 46°; — entire route — 33°.
4. Hooks left — 0 pcs.
5. Climbing hours to the summit — 6 h 10 min.
6. Leader: Gaponov Alexander Vladimirovich (1st sports category, "Irbis" club, Kemerovo).

V. Stazhеров peak from Znachkistov pass, 2A cat.

From the camp, move up towards the Big Aktru glacier. Walk along the slopes of Kzyl-Tash, following the riverbed, to large rocky "ram's foreheads" (1–1.5 hours), which are bypassed on the right along a steep scree. Further, move along the edge of the glacier to the slopes of Stazhеров peak. On the moraine ridge, there is a glaciologists' camp, and behind the ridge, there is a lake. It takes 3–3.5 hours to walk from the camp. It is a convenient place for an overnight stay. From the moraine lake, move up towards Znachkistov pass. The ascent goes first along the scree, then along the snowy slope. Time — 1.5–2 hours.

Peak Stazhyorov from Znakchikov Pass, 2A cat. dif.

Approach

From the camp, move up towards the Big Akturu glacier. Walk along the slopes of Kzyl-Tash, following the riverbed, to large rocky "sheepbacks" (1–1.5 hours), which are bypassed on the right along a steep scree. Then move along the edge of the glacier. A glaciologists' camp is located on the moraine ridge, and beyond the ridge lies the Blue Lake. It takes 3–4.5 hours of walking from the camp. A convenient place to spend the night. From the moraine lake, move up towards the Znakchikov Pass. The ascent initially goes along scree or a snowy slope (depending on the season). Time — 1.5–2 hours.

Route

Then ascend the steep snow-ice slope to the summit ridge. Movement:

• initially simultaneous,
• then on steep snow-ice sections — alternating with belay (up to 45°). In the upper part of the slope, it may be necessary to cross a crevasse. Then along the summit ridge reach the summit.