Iunom Glacier

Report on the first ascent of the ice-snow route "Yubileyniy" (4A category of complexity) to the summit of Ozyornaya in the Caucasus.

Report On the first ascent of Mt. Ozernaya, 4081 m, preliminarily classified as 4A category of difficulty, ice and snow route, completed on August 17, 2021. Region: Central Caucasus Area: 2.4.1. From the peak Gumachi to the Kitlod pass (Adyr-Su, Lekzyr, Chegem valleys) Content: I. ASCENT DOCUMENTATION Description of the ascent area.

Description of a combined route to the top of Yunom-Kichikdar via Freshfield Pass with a detailed indication of the approach path, ascent to the summit, and descent.

Ynom-Kichkidar, combined, 3A Route Description From the Ullu-Tau alpine camp, the path goes through the Djailyk alpine camp, then crosses the Kullum-Kom river via a bridge and follows a trail along the right bank up to the terminal moraine of the Yuzhny Ynom-Su glacier. The ascent to the moraine takes 1.5 hours. Follow the trail on the moraine to ascend to the glacier and reach its right (orographically) side, along which you should proceed to the so-called srednekichkidar bivouac. It takes 2 hours from the camp to the bivouac. From the bivouac, move along the right side of the Yuzhny Ynom-Su glacier to a counterfort descending from the Freshfield Pass. The pass resembles "Gates" - two rows of rocky outcrops. It takes 3 hours from the bivouac to the pass. Then, descend from the pass about 20 meters down the snowfield to the east, and then traverse left to a couloir descending from the southeast ridge of the Ynom-Kara-Tau peak. Climb out of the couloir onto the ridge on its left side. The path to the summit continues along rocky steps resembling adjacent slabs. These steps lead to a gully. Cross the gully to the right and ascend the rocks on its right side (in the direction of travel) to a saddle. The path goes along simple rocks (slabs) to the summit. The summit is a sharp ridge, about 2 meters high, with a crevice in its middle part. The ascent from the Freshfield Pass takes 2 hours. From the summit, the path follows the ridge to the end of the massif, where a descent is made down a wall (40 m rope) to a snowy saddle. Then, a large gendarme is bypassed on the left along a snowy-icy slope, and a straightforward ridge is reached. The following gendarmes ("hares") are also bypassed on the left, leading to the ridge of the "Kichkidar" peak. The summit is covered with smooth rocky slabs. Return to the "hares" gendarmes and descend to the bivouac along the Zapadny Ynom-Su glacier, keeping to the left side.

First ascent of the West Face of Yunom peak (4365 m) in Karachay-Cherkessia, category 4A, climbed in 2007 by a group of Russian alpinists led by Alexander Raskazov.

Passport Climbing category — technical; Main Caucasian Range and its spurs from Chipperazau Pass to Ortokara peak, Adyrsu-Dzhailyk spur; Yunom peak, 4365 m, via the West Face; Category 4A, first ascent; Height difference: 500 m; Distance: 960 m; Distance of category 4-5 sections: 135 m; Average steepness of the main sections: 58°; Pitons driven:

Yunomkara via the South-Eastern Ridge (combined route, category IIb, fig. 5, 7). Yunomkara via the South-Eastern Ridge, category IIb (M. Misher et al., August 12, 1914; S. Golubev, P. Panyutin, N. Steingoglu, August 25, 1914). From the Bashil tourist center, follow the trail on the right bank of the Bashil River to the Maly Chegem River, which is a left (orographic) tributary of Bashil. Here, turn right and ascend via steep easy rocks, then 'ram's brows' on the right bank of Maly Chegem to the right-bank moraine of the Chegem glacier. Continue along the moraine, and, bypassing the icefall on the right, reach the upper plateau of the Chegem glacier and move to its left side. On the left side of the glacier (closed crevasses), approach the saddle of the Freshfield Pass, located between the peaks of Orubashi on the left and Yunomkara on the right. Here, turn left and, crossing the snow bridge over the bergschrund, ascend the steep ice-and-snow slope, then easy and simple, destroyed and snow-covered rocks to the Freshfield Pass. The path from the "Jailyk" alpine camp (group of 4-12 people) to the initial bivouac at "Sredne-Kichkidarske overnight stays" is described in route 73. From "Sredne-Kichkidarske overnight stays": On the left side of the Yunom glacier (closed crevasses), approach the saddle of the Freshfield Pass, located between the peaks of Yunomkara on the left and Orubashi on the right. Here, turn left and ascend the ice-and-snow slope (avalanches), then snow-covered, heavily destroyed easy and simple rocks of the wide slope to the Freshfield Pass.

Khimik - Treugolnik (the route is combined by A. Yuryev, category 3B difficulty, fig. 5, 6). The path from the Alp лагеря "Ullutau" (a group of 4-8 people) to the summit of Khimik with a bivouac on the left-bank moraine of the Severny Adyrsu glacier is described in route 45. From the summit of Khimik: along the snow-covered simple rocks of the long Western ridge passing a simple gendarme head-on ascend to the Ozernaya summit. From Khimik, it takes 30-40 minutes. From Ozernaya, descend along the simple snow-covered, gently sloping, with a steep shoulder, heavily destroyed (insurance) rocks of the Western ridge to the saddle under the Big Gendarme.

Report on the second ascent of the 5A category route on Pik Khimik via the right part of the bastion of the S wall of the S ridge.

Report on the ascent to Pik Khimik, second passage of the route on the right part of the bastion of the S. wall of the S. ridge (Didora, 2009) Team Coach: Timoshenko T.A. Semiletkin S.A. Leader: Murin E.G. Participant: Shabelnikov S.V. St. Petersburg, 2010 Climbing Passport Prielbrusye, Adyrsu gorge, section 2.4.1.

Report on the first ascent of the route of 5A category of complexity to the summit Khimik via the inner corner of the left part of the North-Eastern wall of the Northern ridge.

Report On the first ascent to v. Khimik (3935 m) via the inner corner of the left part of the North-Eastern wall of the Northern ridge in the period from July 16 to 18, 2009 by the sports group of AUSB "Ullutau" consisting of: Nikolaev A.V. – leader Kabaev R.G. – participant Starykh A.N. – participant AUSB "Ullutau" 2009 Addresses AUSB "Ullutau" 361602, KBR, Nalchik, Tel. 8-8662-77-09-87 LEADER

The climbing area is the Central Caucasus — a spur of the Adyrsky ridge. The peak is Khimik. Difficulty category — 88.45. The height of the peak is 3935 m Route characteristics: Altitude difference — 1000 m Length of sections 5–6 km — 185 m Average steepness of the wall part of the route — 68° Number of pitons hammered, number of placements used: rock placements — 71, chocks — 15 Total number of climbing hours without approaches and descent — 14 Number of bivouacs and their characteristics: 1st — lower kichkidarskie bivouacs, sandy grounds

Description of a new Category 5B route to the summit of Khimik in the Elbrus region, featuring a detailed description of traversing the wall and ridge.

SPORTING AND TECHNICAL CHARACTERISTICS OF THE ASCENT OBJECT Khimik 5AK to the S wall with crest The "Khimik" peak (3935 m) is located on the western spur of the "Adyr-Su" peak. There are two routes to the summit. The first ascent of "Khimik" was made by a group led by Yuryev A. on August 15, 1951, during the traverse of Khimik—Treugolnik. The ice and snow slopes of "Khimik" towards the "Yunom" glacier end in sheer walls of the Northern tower. In 1971, a group led by Naumov A. laid a 4B category route along the left edge of this tower. In 1980, a group led by R. Efimov passed a route along the North-Eastern wall of the right edge of the Northern tower. In the upper part of the route, not noticing a simple exit to the right edge, the group: traversed along a ledge to the left under a large cornice; ascended to the Northern tower along the wall between the left and right edges. The second passage of the route was made in 1981 by the duo Gnaevsky—Bratsev. This group reached the edge at the level of the traverse of the first ascenders and ascended to the Northern tower along it. The further path of both groups coincided with the 4B category route. In this report, the sports group from "Dzhailyk" alpine camp describes the path taken along the variant of the second ascenders. We consider this path more logical and safer. During the ascent, the group observed rockfalls passing along the upper part of the path of the first ascenders.

Himik via the Left rib of the North tower of the North ridge (combined route by A. Naumov, cat. 4B, fig. 5, 6). The path from the Djailyk alpine camp (group of 4-8 people) to the Yunom glacier with an initial bivouac at the "Sredne-Kichkidarskiye nochyovki" is described in route 73. From the nochyovki, cross the Yunom glacier to the right and ascend the gentle snow slope to reach the snow-covered talus terrace on the left side of the Left rib of the North tower of Himik peak. Traverse the talus ledges of the terrace to the left, beneath the Left rib of the North tower. From the ledge, ascend 80 m up the moderately difficult rock of the rib to a vertical wall. Below the wall, make a short traverse to the right and ascend the moderately difficult rock of a 15-20 m steep internal corner to reach the wall. From here, ascend 160-180 m up and to the left through moderately difficult rock ("live" stones), passing: internal corners, ledges, alternating with short walls of above moderate difficulty and difficult rock, beneath the left side of a huge inclined slab - a balcony. Ascend a difficult 15-20 m wall to reach the slab - balcony, and traverse it to its upper left corner. From the slab-balcony, ascend 80-100 m up and to the left through a chimney - crevice, then traverse along a ledge to reach the right chimney - crevice and ascend another 80-100 m. Bypass the rock plug in the upper part: