Myrdy Western — Eastern, combined, 2A

Route Description

The ascent to the Lожный Мырды (False Myrdy) pass is described in the “Гвандра Восточная с перемычки от Центральной вершины” (Gvandra Eastern from the saddle of Tsentralnaya peak)” route (16). From the pass, descend to the southern side of the ridge onto the first ledges, and traverse left along them with a slight gain in altitude to a long ledge running along the southern side of the ridge beneath the cliffs of the Western summit R2. Approximately from the middle of the ledge:

• ascend left and upwards 30 m via an inner corner,
• followed by a series of ledges leading to the western ridge (protection!). A prominent overhanging rock R7 on the right serves as a landmark. Follow the straightforward 200-meter ridge to reach the Western summit. From the pass, it takes 4 hours. From the Western summit, staying close to the right side of the ridge, approach a narrow couloir R8. In the first half of summer:
• there are numerous cornices on the left side of the ridge,
• inner corners are filled with snow.

Myrdy East from Myrdy Pass, 1B

Route Description:

The ascent to Myrdy Plateau is described in the route "Gvandra East from Ak-Tyube Pass" (14). From the plateau, turn left, leaving Gvandra Malaya peak to the right, and head towards Myrdy Pass. In its middle section, the glacier may be heavily broken. In this case, one should ascend to the sub-pass slope via the glacier on the left, passing under the walls of Kirpich peak. The ascent to the pass slope presents no technical difficulties. Directly under the pass rocks, a 5 m wide bergschrund may be encountered. It is overcome by descending to the bottom of the crevasse and then ascending via crumbling ledges, slippery rocks, and small talus. Beyond the pass, to the south, lies a large snow "dome" plateau. From the "dome", move right, bypassing the lower part of the eastern ridge of Myrdy peak. Ascend to the ridge via a pronounced yellow-colored talus and a long ledge. Then, moving along the snowy part of the ridge, bypass a 40-meter rock face via ledges and snow (R16–R17) and ascend to the slabs in its middle section. Beyond the slabs, follow the ridge to reach the East summit. From Myrdy bivouac — 5–6 hours. The descent via the ascent route to the bivouac takes 3 hours.

Gvandra Centralnaya - Glavnaya, 2A

Route description:

The path to the saddle between the Eastern and Central peaks is described in route M1 6. From the saddle, turn left and, having overcome a small gendarme "head-on", reach the "saw" - a heavily jagged rock ridge. Bypass the "saw" on the left along shelves and small walls. Then, along a 200-meter snowy ridge, reach the "dome". From the "dome", descend to the left to a steep snow-ice couloir. Cross it below the ridge line (belay!). In low-snow conditions, a wide crevasse appears in the upper part of the couloir, extending to the top of the ridge. To cross the couloir, it is necessary to descend to the bottom of the crevasse and ascend the ice wall on its opposite side. Beyond the couloir, ascend a simple scree ridge to the Central peak. From the saddle - 4 hours. From the Central peak, descend a 10-meter wall to a saddle leading to Gvandra Glavnaya. Then, bypass the ridge cornices via couloir R4. If there are no cornices, do not enter the couloir, but move along the ridge up to R6. From here, along a 150-meter section of simple rocks to the left of the ridge, reach a snowy saddle. From the saddle, ascend to the Main peak along a narrow, turning into a sharp, snowy ridge with a steep rise (belay!). To the right are huge cornices, to the left are steeply falling snowy slopes. From the Central peak - 2 hours. The descent from the peak to the saddle is via the ascent route. Then, down to the right along a steep snowy slope with a bergschrund at the bottom to the snowy fields of the upper Gvandra plateau. Walk across the plateau under the slopes of the Central peak in the direction of the saddle and then descend along the ascent route towards the Lozhny Myrd y pass. From the Main peak to the bivouac - 3 hours.

• departure time from the Myrd y bivouac should be no later than 4 am.

M21. Gvandra East — Main (combined route, 3A cat. of diff., p/p L. Chasovnikovs, 1937) See routes M14, M16, M18–M20.

• when descending from the Eastern peak via route M16, it should be taken into account that the description is made in the opposite direction, and all gendarmes will be overcome not on ascent, but on descent;
• in bad weather or in fog, descending from the Main peak, one can lose orientation and go to the right earlier from the upper plateau of Gvand — dry. There is a danger of going to very steep slopes with large crevices and, most importantly, to the southern slopes of the ridge from Gvandra Main. These slopes, going in the direction of the False Myrdy pass, end in a hanging icefall. To

M22. Gvandra Main — East

(combined route, cat. difficulty) See routes M14, M16, M18 — M20.

• when moving from the Central summit, pass the gap in the upper part of the ice couloir descending into it;
• when descending from the East summit, be careful, especially in bad weather, — one can end up on a slope that descends from the pre-summit to the right, which is very similar in its character to the correct slope leading towards Ak-Tyube pass. The false slope ends in ice-serac falls!
• departure time from Myrdy bivouac — at 2–3 a.m.;
• it takes 12–14 hours to complete the route;
• the traverse can be planned with an intermediate bivouac on the Gvandra ridge.

Gvandra Tsentralnaya from the saddle from Glavnaya, combined, 1B

Route Description

The ascent to the upper plateau of Gvandra is described in the route "Gvandra Vostochnaya from the saddle from Gvandra Tsentralnaya peak". On the plateau, go left - to the saddle between Glavnaya (left) and Tsentralnaya (right) peaks of Gvandra. Ascend to the saddle via a snowy slope closer to Glavnaya peak. In the lower part, the slope is cut by a bergschrund - pass via a bridge or a gap with ice blocks (belay!). The ascent from the saddle to Glavnaya peak coincides with the description of the route "Gvandra Tsentralnaya - Glavnaya" for this section of the path. From the point of reaching the plateau to the summit - 3 hours. Descent from the summit to the bivouac takes at least 3.5 hours. If you go along the ridge to the right from the saddle, it will be the beginning of the route to Tsentralnaya peak. Behind the snowy saddle, a rocky ridge begins. Bypass its ruined rocks on the right. Behind the rocks, traverse the snowy slope and, to the right of the main ridge, via a couloir, reach below a 10-meter wall. If there are no cornices on the left on this section of the ridge, move along the ridge without entering the couloir. Having overcome the 10-meter wall (50°), reach Tsentralnaya peak via simple ruined rocks.

GvandrauZunkol — description of the climbing route "ZA" from SK Greta

Route description:

From the Myrdy bivouac, ascend via scree and moraines to the snowy slopes on the right. Climb the slopes to reach the Myrdy glacier plateau. From the plateau, move towards the Western summit of Myrdy. Ascend via snowy slopes and a wide couloir to the right of the summit to reach the Lozhny Myrdy pass. The Eastern ridge (second from the Ak-Tyube pass) is located opposite this pass. If approaching the ridge from the pass, then:

• Cross the plateau perpendicular to the pass saddle
• Ascend to the right lower part of the ridge rocks via snowy (steep at the top) slopes

Гре­ве­ив от Цен­тр. Гва­ид­рь к Вос­то­чно­му — 2–5 км. becomes Distance from Tsentr. Gvaidry to Vostochny — 2–5 km.

Ascent Log

1. Ascent class — rock climbing
2. Ascent area — Uzunkol tourist center, Western Caucasus
3. Ascent route — Gvandra East peak 3900 m via the eastern ridge
4. Proposed category of difficulty — 3A category of difficulty
5. Route characteristics — height difference 700 m, average slope 45°
6. Pitons hammered: for belaying: — rock: II — ice: 2

GVANDRA PEAK – 3993 m

1. Ascent to Gvandara East Peak from Ak-Tyube Pass – Cat. 1B
2. Ascent to Gvandara East Peak via the northern edge from Ak-Tyube Glacier – Cat. 2B (Description of the route as you move towards the peak) Difficulties
3. Ascent to Gvandara East Peak – Cat. 1B The path to the bivouac is described in the description of the Kara-Baschi peak. From the bivouac:

• straight across the moraine to the Morde Glacier;