GvandrauZunkol — description of the climbing route "ZA" from SK Greta

Route description:

From the Myrdy bivouac, ascend via scree and moraines to the snowy slopes on the right. Climb the slopes to reach the Myrdy glacier plateau. From the plateau, move towards the Western summit of Myrdy. Ascend via snowy slopes and a wide couloir to the right of the summit to reach the Lozhny Myrdy pass.

The Eastern ridge (second from the Ak-Tyube pass) is located opposite this pass. If approaching the ridge from the pass, then:

• Cross the plateau perpendicular to the pass saddle
• Ascend to the right lower part of the ridge rocks via snowy (steep at the top) slopes
• Move between separate breaks and crevices

If the slopes under the ridge are not broken by crevices and landslides, then it is possible to reach it without ascending to the Lozhny Myrdy pass. In this case, after reaching the Myrdy plateau:

• Ascend to the lower rocky part of the ridge via gentle snowy slopes, bypassing the first eastern ridge.
• While ascending to the ridge rocks, go to the right of the large rocky ascent in its lower part.
• Immediately after the ascent, there is a short, steep snowy slope with bergschrunds, leading to the destroyed rocks of a small saddle on the Eastern ridge R3.

Here is the control point. From the bivouac, depending on the condition of the glacier approaches, it takes 2.5–4 hours.

Via simple and moderately difficult ridge rocks, bypassing three gendarmes on the right via ledges and internal corners, approach the fourth. Ascend to it on the right of the wide bridge in front of it via an internal corner R13–R14.

In bad weather, the summit of the gendarme can be mistaken for the main summit! From the fourth gendarme, via a 200-meter simple snowy slope, reach the Eastern summit. From the control point, it takes 5–6 hours.

Descend from the summit via the "Gvandrau Vostochnaya from Ak-Tyube pass" route to the Ak-Tyube pass or via the "Gvandrau Vostochnaya from the saddle from Tsentralnaya summit" route in the direction of the Lozhny Myrdy pass.

• Departure time from the Myrdy bivouac — not later than 4:00 AM.
• It is mandatory to have a supply of warm clothing, food, and bivouac equipment.
• If necessary, it is possible to descend from each saddle between the gendarmes, going left to the lower rock exits of the ridge in the direction of the Lozhny Myrdy pass.

From the website sk-greta.ru.