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Report

on the traverse of the Kommunisticheskoy Akademii 6175–OGPU peaks, accomplished by the team from the Novosibirsk City Committee for FIS in 1975. Main sections of the traverse of the Komaakademii–5900–OGPU peaks Southern wall of Kommunisticheskoy Akademii peak

3. Tactical Plan of the Ascent

Organization of the Ascent

Report

On the traverse of the peaks of Kommunisticheskaya Akademiya — "6045 m" — Garmo, performed by the combined team of the Armed Forces in 1972 (North-West Pamir)

Historical and geographical overview and characteristics of the area

In 1928, participants of the Pamir expedition of the USSR Academy of Sciences, topographer I.G. Dorofeev, first crossed the Academy of Sciences range from east to west and discovered a large glacier flowing into the Vanch valley. The glacier was named after the Geographical Society. The length of the glacier was determined to be 18 km. The glacier is located in the upper reaches of the Vanch river valley. In the area of the Kasal-ayak pass, it seems to merge with the Fedchenko glacier. However, the main branches of the RGO glacier originate from:

• the southern slopes of Garmo peak, one of the largest centers of glaciation in the north-western Pamir;
• the south-western slopes of Kommunisticheskaya Akademiya peak. To the south, the RGO glacier receives a large tributary — the Krasnoarmeets glacier. A detailed study of the RGO glacier was conducted in 1948 by a comprehensive geographical expedition of Moscow University. The total length of the glacier from the slopes of Garmo and Komakademiya was determined to be 21 km. The width is about 1 km. The RGO glacier is dominated by two high peaks:
• Garmo peak;
• Kommunisticheskaya Akademiya peak.

REPORT

on the ascent of Peak Kommunisticheskoy Akademii via the Southwest Face, carried out as part of the USSR Championship in the high-altitude and technical class Map-scheme of the ascent area SOUTHWEST FACE AFTER SNOWFALL. PHOTO TAKEN FROM THE AREA OF PEAK 6040 m. The organizational and tactical plan for the ascent was finalized after reconnaissance and visual observation of the route. The plan was as follows: Day one: Approach from the base camp to the second assault camp. Day two: Approach from the second assault camp under the wall, setting up the third assault camp, processing the lower part of the wall, and observing the regime of avalanches and rockfall.

REPORT

on the ascent of Peak Kom. Academii (6439 m) via the SW wall, category 6B (second ascent) July 26 – August 4, 1979 Team of the Armed Forces of the USSR:

• Cherepov V.A. — leader
• Gaas A.V. — coach
• Gromko V.N.
• Egorov V.M.
• Zhak V.V.
• Maleev V.V.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: high-altitude technical
2. Ascent area: Darvaz Range
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: peak Kommunisticheskoy Akademii, 6432 m, via the SW wall
4. Complexity category: 6B, third ascent
5. Route characteristics: average steepness — 65° total height difference — 2092 m route length — 2399 m and sections in m

Passport

1. Climbing category — high-altitude.
2. Climbing area — Pamir, Academy of Sciences Range.
3. Peak — Komakademii (South-Main, 6439 m) via the southwest wall, traverse — L. Matyushin's route, 72.
4. Complexity category — 6.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 1690 m. distance to South summit — 1960 m. distance to Main summit — 2500 m. distance with 5–6 complexity category — 1000 m.

Passport

of the ascent made in the USSR Climbing Championship 1971. Category I ascent details: 2. Region of ascent: 3. Route of ascent: high-altitude and technical. Central Pamir. eastern wall of Peak Kommunizm with further traverse of the massif. 4. Characteristics of ascent: height difference 1750 m, average slope 65°–70°, length of difficult sections 1500 m. 5. Number of pitons: rock — 188; ice — 38; bolt 6. Number of climbing hours: 74.5 h.

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent Category — HIGH-ALTITUDE TECHNICAL

2. Ascent Area

CENTRAL PAMIR 3. Ascent Route with Indication of Peaks and Their Heights to peak "KOMAK DEMII" 6439 m via CENTRAL WEST WALL 4. Characteristics of the Ascent: height difference — 2150 m VERTICAL, 2640 m ROPE LENGTH, average steepness — 73°, length of complex section 820 m.

Committee for Physical Culture and Sports under the Council of Ministers of the Kabardino-Balkarian ASSR

Report

on the first ascent via the center of the Southwest face to peak "KOMAKADEMIYA" 6439 m, approximately 6B category of difficulty. CENTRAL PAMIR (region of the "Geographical Society" glacier) Coach and team captain, Honored Master of Sports of the USSR — Yu. POROKHNYA Nalchik September 5–20, 1975 ![img-0.jpeg]({"width":1651,"height":2333,"format": "Jpeg","uri":"https://summitx.info/media/1/x8S3CPs7wa70kBDRuDtaMlrbwlIMSfaz/img-0.jpeg","id":64762345})

1. Brief geographical description and sporting characteristics of the object of the first ascent. Brief description of the route conditions in the given area (remoteness from alpinist bases and means of communication, features of relief, weather conditions)

Peak "KOMAKADEMIYA" is located in the Central Pamir, in the southwestern part of the Fedchenko glacier, adjacent to the Academy of Sciences range in the area of peak "GARMO". This region is quite remote from populated areas; the nearest settlement, Vanch, from which one can communicate with any city by post and transport (airplanes, cars), is 80 km away from the main base camp near the Geographical Society glacier. Automobiles from the "Khrustalny" mine travel to this location. The name "peak 'Komaakademii'" appeared on maps compiled by surveyor Dorofeev based on surveys in 1938. In the same year, the first acquaintance of alpinists with the peak took place. An expedition led by N.V. KRYLENKO penetrated from the upper reaches of the Tanymas river to the Fedchenko glacier and "...was struck by two peaks of one mountain, which we," he writes, "from then on called the double-peaked one. They were higher than the others."

1. Climbing category: high-altitude technical
2. Climbing area, ridge: Central Pamir, Akademiya Nauk Ridge
3. Peak, its height, climbing route: Pik Komakademii, 6439 m, via the center of the southeast face.
4. Estimated difficulty category: 6B.
5. Route characteristics: — height difference — 1850 m, including wall section difference — 1480 m — ridge section difference — 370 m — length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 1650 m — average steepness of the route — 75°, including "lap" — 65°, "bastion" + "book" — 75–80°
6. Pitons driven: