Джанкуат

### Description of the 2A Category Route to Trapezia Peak (3697m) in the Caucasus The route involves a technically challenging ascent with varying terrain, requiring careful navigation and mountaineering skills. ### Technical Characteristics - Category: 2A - Elevation: 3697m - Terrain: Varied, including steep inclines and potentially icy sections ### Recommendations for Ascent * Climbers should be prepared for changing weather conditions. * Technical sections require appropriate equipment and experience. * Navigation skills are crucial due to the complex terrain.

Gennady Starikov, Moscow (Author's photo) Trapecija 2A, Ascent Passport Region — Caucasus, valley — Adylsu. (table — 2008, p. 42, item 171a) Peak name — Trapecija (3697), NW edge. 2A category of difficulty (first ascent) Nature of the route — snow-ice. Height difference from the glacier — 300 m Length of ice sections of 3rd category of difficulty — 180 m Average steepness of the main part of the route — 45°.

Ascent to Trapeziya Peak (3740 m) via NW edge from Dzhankuat Glacier North, category 2A, snow and ice route.

Ascent Log Class — rock. Elbrus region, Central Caucasus. Peak Trapezia (3740 m), via NW edge from the North Djan-kuat glacier. Difficulty category — 2A, first ascent. Route character: snow-ice, height difference from the glacier 300 m, steepness of the upper part 45°, length 180 m. Belay: when approaching the upper bergschrund — via ice axe, on the slope via ice screws, 17 pieces driven in total. Number of travel hours from the bivouac at "Green Hotel" 6–7 hours, descent from the summit — 2.5–3 hours. Group is training:

Description of the 2A category difficulty route to the Trapezia peak (3697 m) in the Caucasus, Adylsu gorge, via the southern slope and western ridge.

Starikov Gennadiy, Moscow (author's photo) Trapezia 2A. Ascent passport. Region — Caucasus, Adylsu gorge. (tab. – 2008, p. 42, item 171) Peak name — Trapezia (3697), S slope and W ridge. 2A cat. of difficulty (first ascent) Route type — rock. Route elevation gain from the glacier — 600 m Route length — 1200 m view from the Adylsu gorge view from the glacier

Route description to the summit "Bezymyannaya" along the ridge from the northwest, category of complexity 2A, climbed in 1974.

Route Description to the summit of "Bezыmannaya" via the southern ridge from the southwest or Gumači pass, category 2A The summit "Bezыmannaya" is located in the upper Adyl-Su valley between the summits Gumači and Chetchat. The ridges of Bezыmannaya consist of simple destroyed rocks alternating with scree and individual snow-ice sections. The described route (traverse) from southwest to northwest was completed on August 6, 1974, by a training and sports group of the All-Union School of Instructors of Mountaineering under the All-Union Central Council of Trade Unions in the following composition: I. Naydovich B.V. — leader. Starikov G.A. Sinelshchikov G.A. The route is evaluated by the group as category 2A. From the "Elbrus" base camp, the path lies along the road to the "Jantugan" base camp, then along the trail on the left bank of the Adyl-Su River to a stone bridge, across which you should cross to its right bank. Further along the trail — to the "Green Hotel" clearing. From the "Elbrus" base camp — 3.5 hours. From the "Green Hotel", go up along the ridge of the right-bank moraine of the Jan-Kuat glacier to the sites at its end ( bivouac "Sneznyy" or "Snowy"). There are two options for reaching the southern ridge of Bezыmannaya.

Traverse of Sarykolbashi-Tersak and Sarykolbashi peaks in the Elbrus region, category of difficulty 2B, rocky terrain, length 3320 m.

Passport Section number according to KMGV — 2010 — 2.4. Central Caucasus, mountain region — Prielbrusye, Terskol gorge, SE spur of Elbrus Names of peaks: Sarykolbashi-tersak (3776) — Sarykol (3700) Route: traverse from south to north Category of complexity: 2B Character of the route — rock. Height difference of the route: 1376 m Length of the route: 3320 m Length of sections with the highest category of complexity:

Description of a combined 5B category route to the summit of Digitau (3991 m) via the center of the West Face in the Caucasus.

I. Rock climbing category Caucasus, GAKh Mt. Dzhantugan, 3991 m, via the center of the West Face, combined route Proposed category complexity: 5B Height difference 740 m, route length 985 m Length of sections at category complexity: 135 m. Average slope of the route 50°, rock section 60° Pitons hammered: rock 66, ice 0, placements 19 Climbing hours 13 No bivouacs, no suitable platforms on the route

Description of the ascent to the summit of Jan-Tugan via the Northwest Ridge, category IIIB difficulty, made by the "Dvigatel" team consisting of 8 people.

Description First Ascent of Djan-Tugan Via the North-West Ridge This ascent involved 8 people (the "Lokomotiv" team) divided into two groups of four, with a 1-hour interval between them. First group: Garf (team leader) Karavaev Povarnin Sharunin

Description of the ascent route to the summit of Dzhantugan via the Northeast Edge, Category 3B complexity, including details on approach, ascent, descent, and necessary equipment.

Route Description Climbing to the summit of Dzhangtugan via the Northeast Ridge, category 3B From the Dzhangtugan alpine camp, ascend along the trail on the left bank of the Adylsu River, then cross to its right bank via a natural stone bridge. Follow the trail along the right bank to the "Green Hotel" clearing, near the Dzhankuat Glacier. The journey from the Dzhangtugan alpine camp takes 2 hours. From the "Green Hotel," ascend along the ridge of the right lateral moraine of the Dzhankuat Glacier to the platforms at its end (Snowy bivouac). From the Snowy bivouac, traverse a snowy slope, bypassing a rocky massif on the left, and reach a saddle on the northeast ridge, a 2-hour journey. From the saddle, ascend a snowy slope for 4 ropes to the bergschrund, then 20 meters to the start of the rocks. From there, follow a rocky ledge left for 1 rope to an internal corner 2.5 meters high, from which ascend left and upwards towards a gendarme (4 "glove" pitches), bypassing it on the left and upwards through moderately difficult rocks (1 rope). Reach the top of the gendarme (control cairn). Continue through broken rocks to a distinct reddish gendarme (4 ropes, control cairn). From it, descend into a gully (4 meters) and then ascend through rocks to the ridge. Traverse 20 meters along a snowy-icy slope and ascend 3 ropes through icy rocks with small holds. Continue for 4.5 ropes under the pre-summit tower along a snowy-icy slope. Approach the tower from the left through rocks (control cairn) - challenging climbing - and reach indistinct black rocks. From there, ascend 5 ropes along a rocky ridge to the summit - 5-6 hours. Descend via the category 2A route along the left part of the couloir (pitons for protection, 4 ropes). Then descend down a snowy slope and exit onto the glacier. From there, return to the Snowy bivouac. The descent takes 3 hours. Special equipment for 4 people: Main rope 240 m Auxiliary rope 5 m Rock pitons 4-6 pcs.

Description of the route along the 103 ridge to the summit of Dzhangtugan, complexity category, route scheme in UIAA symbols and details of the passage.

V. Dzhantugan via the 103 ridge, cat. III complexity. Route scheme in UIAA symbols (September 2, 1987) 5:00 — departure from "Zelyonaya gostinitsa" (Green Hotel). 8:00 — Dzhantuganskoye plateau. 9:00–12:00 — summit. The pass between | Route sections: | Pitons: | | | | :--------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------: | :------: | :---: | :-------: | | | rock | chock | ice | | Ascent to the plateau R1–150 m 40° II R2–120 m 10° I R3–120 m 40° II R4–40 m 5° I R5–60 m 46° II R6–80 m 38° II R7–20 m 50° II R8–40 m 65° III R9–40 m 65° III R10–20 m 70° IV R11–20 m 45° II R12–40 m 10° I R13–50 m 35° II R14–50 m 65° IV R15–40 m 10° II R16–20 m 55° III R17–30 m 5° I | | | 6 2 2 I 2 |

Description of the route to the summit of Jangi-Tau (3991 m) with a difficulty category of 2A, including a detailed indication of the ascent and descent path.

pic. and compiled by M.S. M. Romаno. v. Jan-19T'Ali (3991 m) To the ridge, 2A cat. complexity. route 3. Aristova, 35. Exit from the camp along the motor road through Koshi to the Zelyonaya gostinitsa — 3 hours. Overnight stay. Exit from the overnight stay at 2–3 am. Ascent to the Jan-Kuat glacier along the left orographic snow moraine. To the Jan-Tugаn pass — exit under the Aristova rocks in the left part of the glacier. To the plateau from the Zelyonaya gostinitsa: 3–4 hours. Ascent from the plateau: Along the talus couloir to the shoulder