Route Description
Climbing to the summit of Dzhangtugan via the Northeast Ridge, category 3B
From the Dzhangtugan alpine camp, ascend along the trail on the left bank of the Adylsu River, then cross to its right bank via a natural stone bridge. Follow the trail along the right bank to the "Green Hotel" clearing, near the Dzhankuat Glacier. The journey from the Dzhangtugan alpine camp takes 2 hours. From the "Green Hotel," ascend along the ridge of the right lateral moraine of the Dzhankuat Glacier to the platforms at its end (Snowy bivouac). From the Snowy bivouac, traverse a snowy slope, bypassing a rocky massif on the left, and reach a saddle on the northeast ridge, a 2-hour journey. From the saddle, ascend a snowy slope for 4 ropes to the bergschrund, then 20 meters to the start of the rocks. From there, follow a rocky ledge left for 1 rope to an internal corner 2.5 meters high, from which ascend left and upwards towards a gendarme (4 "glove" pitches), bypassing it on the left and upwards through moderately difficult rocks (1 rope). Reach the top of the gendarme (control cairn). Continue through broken rocks to a distinct reddish gendarme (4 ropes, control cairn). From it, descend into a gully (4 meters) and then ascend through rocks to the ridge. Traverse 20 meters along a snowy-icy slope and ascend 3 ropes through icy rocks with small holds. Continue for 4.5 ropes under the pre-summit tower along a snowy-icy slope. Approach the tower from the left through rocks (control cairn) - challenging climbing - and reach indistinct black rocks. From there, ascend 5 ropes along a rocky ridge to the summit - 5-6 hours. Descend via the category 2A route along the left part of the couloir (pitons for protection, 4 ropes). Then descend down a snowy slope and exit onto the glacier. From there, return to the Snowy bivouac. The descent takes 3 hours.
Special equipment for 4 people:
- Main rope 240 m
- Auxiliary rope 5 m
- Rock pitons 4-6 pcs.
- Carabiners 6 pcs.
- Crampons 1 pair
Route duration: 2 days. V. Verbensky + — Master of Sports
Route scheme. 3991 m. Dzhangtugan, West wall.
Conclusions and Recommendations
The traversed route is a first ascent through the center of the West wall of Dzhangtugan. The route is combined, logical, and safe, corresponding to category 5A. Compared to previously traversed category 4B routes in the Caucasus: MNR, Western Tshelda, Aviazia, Dzhangi, Western Shkhelda, and Western Dombay, and category 5A routes: Dzhailyk, Dombay traverse, Ural - this route is more challenging but less so than category 5A routes like Turovsky's route on the Northwest wall, Ushba traverse, Dyltau. The route is recommended for sports groups with experience in category 4B-5A wall combined routes. Special attention should be given to:
- the absence of bivouac sites;
- certain difficulties in organizing belay points on the I and II rocky belts. The ascent was made in good weather conditions, but with a snowy route state. Later in the season, the rocky part of the route will likely become easier, but this is offset by increased ice on the lower part of the route and on the diagonal snowy-icy ledge. If necessary to abandon the route, we recommend descending via the ascent route for safety reasons. Only start the route in good weather.
Leader and Coach M. GORBENKO
44-K 8-9
94-K 7-8, lower 6-7.
