Korzeniewski

First ascent of Trud peak (4650 m) via the left part of the West face in Trans-Ili Alatau, rated 5B difficulty.

Ascent Passport I. Ascent class: technical Ascent area: Zailiyskiy Ala-Tau Peak: Tруд 4650 m via the left part of the West wall, first ascent. Proposed difficulty category: 5B. Route characteristics: Height difference 1010 m. Average steepness 65°. Total route length — 1190 m. Length of sections with 4th difficulty category — 330 m, 5th difficulty category — 480 m. Pitons hammered: insurance and others Rock pitons — 27 Ice pitons — 2

### First Ascent of Trud Peak (4650 m) via the Right Side of the West Face in the Trans-Ili Alatau Range, Category 5B Difficulty Details the first ascent of Trud Peak's West Face, highlighting the technical challenges and route complexities categorized under 5B climbing difficulty.

Climbing category: technical Climbing area: Trans-Ili Alatau ridge Peak, its height, and ascent route: peak "TRUD", 4650 m, via the right part of the Western wall, first ascent. Estimated route category: 5B Route characteristics: height difference — 1180 m, average steepness — 55°, total route length — 1560 m, section lengths: 3rd difficulty category — 415 m 4th difficulty category — 580 m 5th difficulty category — 540 m 6th difficulty category — 25 m Pitons used:

Report on the first ascent of a combined route of category 5B difficulty via the western wall of Pik Trud (4635 m) in Trans-Ili Alatau.

World Climbing Championship High-Altitude Technical Class National Team of the Republic of Kazakhstan Peak Trud, 4635 m via the west face, 5B cat. diff. (first ascent) General photo of the summit Taken from Kroshka glacier on May 26 at 19:00 Ascent Passport Region, gorge: Tien Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau, Middle Talgar Summit name, route name:

Ascent to the summit of Talgar via the west face of the North peak, a route of the 5th category of difficulty, completed by the "Malachite" sports club team in 1977, with a detailed description of the ascent stages and team tactics.

Tian Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau Range TALGAR (Main Peak), 4973 m, via the west face of the North Peak from the North Talgar Glacier (Pelevin's route) 5B difficulty category. Team of the "Malachite" sports club. Team captain - Vladimir Ivanovich YUSHKEVICH, 1st sports category. Team members: German Petrovich AVERYANOV, Candidate Master of Sports Alexey Vladimirovich ARTAMONOV, 1st sports category Boris Vladimirovich DAUTER, Master of Sports Sergey Borisovich LYAKHOV, 1st sports category

Description of the passage of a category 5 difficulty route via the northwest wall of Daugava peak (4600 m) in the Northern Tien Shan by a group of Latvian climbers in 1961.

Talgar (SE) Brief geographical location and sports characteristics of the object. The unnamed peak with a height of 4600 m, or now known as peak "Daugava" as named by the Latvian national team after their ascent, is located in the North Tien Shan, in a spur branching off to the northwest from the main ridge of the Trans-Ili Alatau. In this spur, situated south of the Talgar massif and separating the Kroshka glacier and North Talgar, there are two peaks: peak "Trud" peak "Daugava" The northwest slope of peak Daugava drops to the north as a steep wall. Bounded on both sides by large icefalls, it presents three separate walls and several difficult-to-overcome sections in the middle part of the route. The northwest slopes are hardly ever exposed to sunlight and are battered by strong winds. As a result, there is a lot of ice on the route, and in the upper part, a lot of loose snow covering both ice and rocks. The height of the wall is 950–1050 m. Characteristics of the area The North Tien Shan is characterized by an abundance of snow and ice, resulting in many snow, ice, and combined routes. The action of glaciers is very pronounced. There are many moraines that block the path and hinder approaches. As a result of intense melting, the water level in rivers changes significantly. This factor must also be considered when planning ascents. The best time of year for sports ascents is considered to be July–August, although exceptions can occur. The group was based in the Talgar mountaineering camp, located in the Middle Talgar gorge, 43 km from Almaty. From the transshipment base to the camp is a 9 km pack trail. Furthermore, most approaches from the camp to the ascent objects take one day's journey. The approach to peak Daugava took 6 hours. Reconnaissance work

Ascent via the southwest wall of the South Talgar peak in Trans-Ili Alatau, category 5B, completed in 1978 by a duo of climbers.

ASCENT PASSPORT Ascent class — technical. Ascent area — Tian Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau. Ascent route indicating peaks and their heights: Southwest wall of Peak Yuzhny Talgar — 5000 m. Ascent characteristics: elevation gain 1000 m average steepness 65° length of complex sections 650 m. Number of pitons hammered in — 68.

Description of the ascent via the southwestern wall of Jango-Talgara with a difficulty level of 5B, completed by a group of climbers in 1968.

Ascent Log Sports organization: Republican Climbers' Club of the Kazakh SSR. Ascent classification: Technically challenging. Assault leader: Akinenkov M.V. — Candidate Master of Sports. Participants: — Belovol E.V. — 1st category, Denisov V.G. — 1st category, Popenko Yu.S. — 1st category. Peak name, height: "Yuzhny Talgar", 5017 m. Geographical area: Trans-Ili Alatau, Tian Shan. Route: South-West wall. Route height: wall section height difference — 520 m, including most challenging sections — 450 m. Difficulty category assessment — 5B.

Description of the ascent route to Talgar Peak (5020 m) via the wall, category of difficulty 5B center.

Climbing category: combined. Climbing area: N. Tien Shan, Trans-Ili Alatau, Talgar base camp. Peak, its height, climbing route: Yuzhny Talgar, 5020 m, SW wall, center. Proposed difficulty category: 5B. Route characteristics: height difference 900 m, length of 5th category difficulty sections 200 m, average steepness 45°. Pitons driven: for belay, for creating Intermediate Technical Support (I.T.O.). | rock | 53 | IV | |------------|----|----| | ice | – | – | | bolt | – | – |

Description of the ascent route to Talgar peak in Trans-Ili Alatau via the West face from Kroshka glacier.

Passport I. Technical Class Trans-Ili Alatau, Middle Talgar gorge Talgar, via the Western wall from the Kroshka glacier 5 km/h Elevation difference: 180 m, length — 1400 m Length of 5 km/h sections. Pitons driven rock belay anchors ice 66⁄8 0⁄0 85⁄8 3⁄0 Team's walking hours: 24 h; days 2.

Report on the first ascent of the route category 5A on the Southwest wall of Pik Yuzhny Talgar by the CSKA MO RK team in 2010.

Report on the ascent of Pik Yuzhny Talgar via the Southwest Wall, 5A category of difficulty, by the team of the Central Sports Club of the Army of Kazakhstan Team coach: Uryubko D.V. Team captain: Dedeshko B.E. Almaty, 2010 Climbing Passport Zailiyskiy Alatau, Sredniy Talgar Pik Yuzhny Talgar — 4900 m Ice couloir through the center of the Southwest Wall Category of difficulty — 5A Route type — ice