2.3.60 58 Traversing the peaks: KANNY-KAYA — CHUNUR-BASHI — CHUNUR-DZHAR from "Instruktorkiy" pass — Cat. 3A in both directions. From "Uzbekol" alpine camp along the trail of Kichkinekol gorge to the stream flowing from the Sredniy Kichkinekol glacier and along the trail along the stream to a green terrace. "Green campsite". From here, up the trail to the sheep's foreheads and along the ridge of the gray moraine to the Sredniy Kichkinekol glacier plateau. From the campsite — 3 hours. Through the plateau to the slopes of Kichkinekol pass. Ascend the snowy slope to the bergschrund — closer to the rocks of the Filtr peak. Crossing via a bridge — belay! And further along the snowy slope for 150 m up to 45° — belay! — exit to the pass. From the plateau to the pass — 2 hours. Descent from the pass straight down to the Zamok glacier plateau. Immediately to the left under the slopes of Kichkinekol peak along the snowy slopes and terraces approach the Chungur pass. Exit to the pass along the snowy and scree slopes, guided by the "Parus" rock. From Kichkinekol pass to Chungur — 1–1.5 hours.

3. Ascent to the peak of Kichkinekol from Chugur Pass 2A cat. diff. 3610 The path to Kichkinekol Pass see the description of the ascent to Kichkinekol from Kichkinekol Pass. From Kichkinekol Pass:

• Descend down and under the slopes of the peak Kich-Kinekol by traversing snowy slopes in the direction of Chugur Pass.
• In case of difficult snow cover on these slopes from Kichkinekol Pass, descend directly to the Zamok glacier plateau and approach the slopes of Chugur Pass along the plateau. Ascent to the ridge slightly to the left of the pass point — between the right big gendarme and two rocky “sails”. Without going to the ridge between them, move left along a wide grassy shelf bypassing the next gendarme. From it, descend 10 m and bypass the second gendarme along the shelf, after which exit to the ridge. The entire bypass is about 150 m. Belay! From the ridge, directly through the rocky ascent of the ridge and along the ridge with small gendarmes to a smooth gendarme 10–12 m high with shelves. Pass either directly head-on (belay! pitons!), or bypass from the left (if there is no snow and flow ice on the shelves!). After the gendarme, approach the summit tower along the ridge, which is passed along a rocky groove — 30 m. Belay! And exit to the summit.

KU­UK­U­HE­KOT

Kichkinelkol from Talychat Pass, combined, 2B

Route Description

From the ice bivouacs, cross the Sredniy Kichkinelkol glacier plateau to reach the slopes of Talychat Pass, located to the left of Kichkinelkol peak. Ascend the snowy slope to the bergschrund. Cross via a bridge or the rock shelves of the island adjacent to the left edge of the bergschrund (rocks are heavily damaged, beware of falling stones!). Then, ascend the left side of the snowy couloir, with a steepness of up to 45°, to reach Talychat Pass (beware of stones!). In the second half of summer, fine and loose scree appears in the upper part of the couloir. Traverse close to the Talychat rocks or leftwards via shelves and individual rock outcrops («live» stones!). From the bivouac to the pass — 3–4 hours. From the pass, move to the eastern side of the ridge, then traverse 40 m via shelves, followed by an ascent up two internal corners to the left of the large rock wall R1 to an inclined shelf between R3 and R4. From there, ascend short walls and blocks to reach the main ridge at R5. Alternative ascent from the pass (if there's no snow):

• Ascend an internal corner past the ridge line to an inclined shelf.
• Then, climb a steep wall to reach the main ridge and proceed to R5 along it. From R5, ascend the ridge and slightly below it, which is composed of inclined slabs, to reach the summit. From the pass — 3–4 hours. Descent follows the «Kichkinelkol from Kichkinelkol Pass» route.
• Begin the ascent to Talychat Pass at 5:00–6:00 am.

ASCENT ROUTE TO THE SUMMIT OF PELYCHACHAP from the west — I.6Б.

Route Description:

From the ice bivouacs, via the Middle Kichkinekol glacier plateau, approach the slopes of Talychat pass. To the left of the pass, the western slopes of Talychat peak begin. In the middle of the western slope, a large couloir descends — this is the route landmark. Ascend via the right snow-scree side of the lower part of the couloir to a rocky outcrop. Then:

• through rocks, up and to the right via a small snowy couloir;
• then left via fine scree to reach a large inclined ledge. Along it:
• up for 20 m, bypassing the walls on the right;
• after 50 m, reach a grassy ledge. Along the ledge, head left to a stream, bypassing wet slabs, then ascend rocks to large slabs. Across them, left onto a large scree.

2.3.123 119

Chugur-Bashi Peak

Ascent from the saddle between Chugur-Jar peak and Chugur-Bashi peak along the western ridge, category 2B. From "Uzunkol" alpine camp along the left bank of the Kichkinekol river to the stream flowing from the Sr. Kichkinekol glacier. Along the stream (trail) ascend to a side green terrace and further exit to the upper part of old "ram's foreheads" and along the left gray moraine (trail) – exit to the Sr. Kichkinekol glacier plateau. From the alpine camp to the plateau — 3–3.5 hours. Across the plateau towards the slopes of Kichkinekol pass and up to the bergschrund, keeping closer to the slopes of Filtr peak. Cross the bergschrund via a bridge (belay!) and ascend 120 m along the snowy slope up to 40°. Ascend to a snow step and through it exit to Kichkinekol pass. From the plateau to the pass — 1.5–2 hours. From the pass descend to the Zamok glacier plateau and left, circumventing along the foot of Kichkinekol peak and Chugur-Jar peak and, not reaching the icefall, exit to the slopes of Chugur-Jar and along them – to the saddle towards Chugur-Bashi. From Kichkinekol pass — 1.5–2 hours.

Route Description:

The ascent to Chugur Pass (following the "Kichkinekol from Chugur Pass" route) is to the right of the "Parus" rock. From Kichkinekol Pass, it takes 2 hours. From the pass, follow the right side of the 500-meter ridge, initially a broken rocky ridge (watch out for cornices on the left!), then a snowy ridge to reach the summit. From Chugur Pass, it takes 2.5 hours. The descent from the summit follows the ascent route to Chugur Pass and takes 1.5 hours.

• When ascending from the northern side, from Chugur valley, set up the initial bivouac under the Chugur glacier on the right lateral moraine, on the shore of a dried-up lake. From here, the ascent to Chugur Pass goes along the right side of the snowy slopes of the glacier, then up a steep (up to 40°) 80-meter snowy slope.

Chungur-Dvar Peak

Ascent from the col from Chungur-Bashi along the eastern ridge, category 2A difficulty. From the col from Chungur-Bashi peak, move left onto the ridge and ascend the rocks to a large ledge. Traverse the ledge for 20 m (belay!) and then ascend left and upwards for 10 m; follow the wall with an inner corner (pitons!) to the next ledge. From here, use a 15-meter inner corner (belay! piton!) to reach the shoulder of the ridge's rocky ascent. Along the ridge to a 5-meter slab and traverse right (belay!) to ascend to the main ridge. Follow the ridge to where it becomes less steep and then along a narrow crest to reach the summit. From the col to the summit takes 2.5–3 hours. Descent from the summit follows the category 1B route to Chungur Pass. The further descent route coincides with the ascent route.

Recommendations for Climbers:

I. Number of participants in the group - 2 training units II. Initial bivouac: upper Kichkinekolye, without overnight stay. When ascending Chungur-Bashi, bivouac at Kichkinokol Pass. III. Departure time from bivouac - not later than 4–5 am.

PASSPORT

ASCENTS

1. Class of ascent
   • rock
2. Area of ascent
   • West Caucasus, Uzunkol region.
3. Route of ascent
   • peak CHUNGUR-LZHAR 3668 m. North edge 3B cat. diff.
4. Characteristics of ascent:
   • height difference of the route — 700 m.