Karaugom Glacier

Traverse of Bubis and Chanchaхи peaks via a combined route of 4B category of complexity with a description of the ascent and descent path.

BUBIS — CHANCHAKHI, traverse (combined route, cat. 4B) Ascent to the summit of Bubis via the normal route (cat. 2B) from the Tsey-Raug pass. Descent from the summit of Bubis along the southeastern snowy ridge to the saddle below the summit of Tbiliza-Mta. Ascent up a new slope (40–45°) to the summit of Tbiliza-Mta. Descent from the summit of Tbiliza-Mta initially along a gentle (30°) snowy ridge, then down an ice and firn slope (120 m, 70°, piton belay!) to the ridge before a large "gendarme". Bypass the large "gendarme" from the left (in the direction of travel) from the north along a steep (60°) firn slope, followed by an ascent (50 m) onto the ridge. Bypass all encountered "gendarmes" from the right (in the direction of travel) and along a heavily damaged rocky ridge to the Tsey–Tbiliza pass. From the pass, ascend to the summit of Chanchakhi via the normal route (cat. 4B). Descent from the summit of Chanchakhi to the Tsey–Tbiliza pass via the normal route (cat. 4B). When traversing the summit of Chanchakhi in full, the category of the Bubis—Chanchakhi traverse is 5A (approximate).

Traversing the ridge: Bubis, Dubl peak, Krasnoarmeyets, Uilpata-tau, Son-Yucli; a combined route of 4B category of complexity.

Bubis – Songuti, traverse (combined route, cat. 4B) Ascent to Bubis summit from Tsey–Tbiliski pass via Tbilisa-Mta saddle or by the route of cat. 2B. Descent from Bubis summit to Karaugom pass by the normal route of cat. 2B. From Tsey–Karaugom pass, traverse Double Peak summit (cat. 3B) and the ridge between North Double Peak and Krasnoarmeyets peak via the несложному гребню (easy ridge) of Krasnoarmeyets peak. Descent from Krasnoarmeyets peak by the normal route of cat. 2A and further ascent to Krasnoarmeyets peak by the normal route of cat. 2B. From Krasnoarmeyets peak via an easy rocky ridge to Uilpata-tau peak. From Uilpata-tau peak, descend to Vorobyevsky pass by the route of cat. 4A. From Vorobyevsky pass, ascend to Songuti by the normal route of cat. 4A. Descent from Songuti summit by the ascent route to "Volginskaya nochovka" (by the normal route of cat. 4A).

### Traversing Bubi's and Songuti Peaks Route, 45 km Detailed description of the route and its difficulty category.

Traverse Bubis – Songuti, category 4B Bubis, Double Peak (South, North), Krasnoflotets, Krasnoarmeets, 1 2, Tsей-Karaugomsky pass. TsDSA, Uilpatinsky pass, Uilpata, Songuti pass, Songuti.

Traverse Zapadny - Tsentralny - Vostochny Bokos, a combined route of 3A category of difficulty, duration 10-12 hours.

Bocos Western — Eastern (combined route by V. Miklashevsky, category III of complexity). The path from the CSP of the Tsey region or from the village of Dzinaga (group of 4–8 people) to the summit of Western Bocos is described in routes 131, 132. From the Western summit, there is a small descent along the snowy Eastern ridge in the direction of the Central summit. Then, along the occasionally snow-covered simple rocks of the wide, long, and destroyed ridge with numerous, straightforward, несложными gendarmes, approach under the sharp Central gendarme. From under it: descend 30–40 m along steep rocks (loose stones — piton protection) to the right; then, along ledges, bypass the gendarme to exit into a narrow, steep couloir. Along rocks of medium difficulty (many loose stones — piton protection, key point of the route) of the narrow couloir, ascend 30–40 m to the ridge behind the Central gendarme. Along the simple, long, destroyed, and snow-covered rocky ridge, overcoming numerous gendarmes straightforward, reach the summit of Central Bocos. From the Central summit, along the simple ridge, descend to a wide snowy saddle. From the saddle, along the simple snowy, then along the wide, gently sloping Western ridge: ascend to the summit of Eastern Bocos. Descent along the Eastern ridge or the Southern slope (see route 129 or 130).

Traverse of the peaks Vostochny - Tsentralny - Zapadny Bokos, a combined route of category 3A difficulty, duration 10-12 hours.

Bokos East — West (combined route by A. Durnov, category III complexity, fig. 29). The path from the Tsey region checkpoint or from the Dzinaga settlement (group of 4–8 people) to the East Bokos summit is described in routes 129, 130. From the Eastern summit, descend along the simple Western ridge, then along the snowy ridge to reach the snowy col. From the col, along the simple snow-covered rocky ridge, ascend to the Central Bokos summit. From the Central summit, along the long, destroyed, and snow-covered simple rocky ridge, overcoming gendarmes head-on, approach the overhanging walls of the Central gendarme. From under the gendarme, descend 40–50 m to the left along a narrow, heavily destroyed (many "live" stones, piton belay) couloir, then along ledges, bypass the gendarme on the left and ascend the heavily destroyed steep rocks behind it onto the ridge. Further along the simple rocks (with several simple, passable gendarmes head-on) of the wide, long destroyed ridge, then along the snowy slope, reach the West Bokos summit. Descent along the Northern or Western ridges (see routes 131 and 132). The duration of the route (without approaches) is 10–12 hours. Naumov A. F. Karaugom, Digoria, Tsey (Central Kavkaz), M., "Fizkultura i sport", 1976. BURS — KARAUTUMSKY South Central North

Ascent to the summit of Bokos Western (4060 m) along the Western Ridge, route 2B category of complexity, ice and snow.

Bokos Western (4060 m) via Western Ridge (ice and snow route, category 2B, fig. 29). The path from the CSP of Tsey region or from the village of Dzinaga (group of 4-20 people) to the initial bivouac on the middle plateau of the Western branch of the Karaugom plateau is described in route 83. From the bivouac (closed crevasses), approach the wide leftmost snow couloir rising to the Western ridge of the Western Bokos peak, to the right (east) of the Big rocky gendarme. From the plateau, ascend a steep 120-150-meter snow slope to the bergschrund and cross it in the middle part via a snow bridge. Continue up a steep snow slope (avalanche risk) for 150-200 m to the Western Ridge saddle (belay required). On the saddle, turn right and ascend the snow-covered rocks of the Western Ridge, then a steep 80-100-meter ice and snow slope (running belay) to the Northern Ridge (cornices). Turn right here and: ascend a sharp, steep 40-50-meter Northern Ridge (cornices) then ascend simple, destroyed, and snow-covered rocks to reach the "Western Bokos" summit. From the plateau - 3-4 hours. Descend via the ascent route. Naumov A. F. Karaugom, Digoria, Tsey (Central Caucasus), M., "Fizkultura i sport", 1976. BUTSP

Ascent to the summit of Bokos Western via the Northern ridge, a combined route of 2A category of complexity, description of the path from the KSP of the Tsey district.

Bokos West via the North Ridge (combined route, category 2A, Fig. 29). The path from the CSP of the Tsey region or from the village of Dzhinaga (group of 4-20 people) to the initial bivouac on the platforms of the Western ridge of the Bnuvachnaya peak or on the snow plateau of the Central branch under the Bokos massif is described in route 83. From the platforms (closed crevices) along the snow plateau of the Central branch, approach the saddle of the ridge connecting the massifs of Bokos on the left and VTsSPs - Karaugomsky on the right. From the plateau, ascend a steep 50-60-meter snow slope to the bergschrund and overcome it via a snow bridge. Further up the steep icy-snow slope, the ascent is 80-100 m to the saddle (with belay).

Ascent to the summit of Vostochny Bokos via the southern slope, combined route of 2B category of complexity.

Eastern Bokos via the South slope (combined route, category 2B difficulty, fig. 29). The path from the village of Dzinaga or from the tourist center of the Tsey region (group of 4-20 people) to the initial bivouac on the upper plateau of the Western branch of the Karaugom plateau near the western saddle of Shovi - Karaugom pass is described in route 83. From the bivouac, across the snowy plateau of the Western branch (closed crevasses) and slope, exit to the left side of the South ridge (cornice) of the Eastern Bokos peak. Without reaching the ridge, along the snowy slope on the left side of the South ridge, gradually increasing in steepness, move left into the second snowy couloir. Then: Along the steep snowy slope of the narrowing couloir, 350-400 m left - upwards (avalanche risk) to its end.

Ascent to the summit of Bokos East (4050 m) along the Eastern ridge, complexity category 2A, combined route.

Bocos East (4050 m) via East Ridge (combined route, cat. 2A, Figure 29). The path from CSP of Tsey region or from the village of Dzinaga (group of 4-20 people) to the initial bivouac on the platforms of the Western ridge of Bivouachnaya peak or on the Central branch of Karaugom plateau directly below the peak is described in route 83. From the initial bivouac (closed crevasses) via the Central branch plateau, approach the right side of the long snowy saddle connecting the peak Burevestnik - Karaugomsky on the left with the Bocos massif on the right. From the plateau: Cross the bergschrund via a snow bridge Ascend 70-90 m up the steep snowy slope (protection) to the right side of the saddle (cornices) On the saddle, turn right and exit onto the East ridge of the Bocos massif. Along the sharp (cornice) snowy East ridge (protection) 150-200 m upwards to the wall of the black gendarme. Bypass the gendarme on the right. Then, along the steep snowy ridge-slope (protection), ascend to the ridge of the massif. Further, along a simple wide ridge, ascend 40-60 m to the peak Vostochny Bocos.

Ascent to the summit of Bivouachnaya (4150 m) along the Western ridge, category of complexity 1B, with a detailed description of the route and approaches.

Bivuachnaya In the center of the Karaugom plateau, a low, technically simple snow-capped peak Bivuachnaya (4150 m) rises. It is connected to the Krasnoflotets peak, located in the Tsey ridge, by a low ice-snow saddle, which drops to the Central branch of the plateau with an ice fall. The convenient rock platforms at the foot of the Western ridge of Bivuachnaya are used by climbers as a starting bivouac for ascents to the surrounding plateau peaks. It is mandatory to take a tent on the routes, as it is often impossible to find a bivouac in the fog on the plateau.