Ascent to the summit "Enbek"

The altitude above sea level according to the altimeter is 3920 m. The summit is located in the Dzungarian Alatau, in its Main northern ridge. It is situated in the gorge of the Karasai river, a tributary of Aksu, in the left spur of the Main ridge. From the northeast - an ice wall that starts from the glacier and ends on the summit ridge. Steepness is 45–50° and from the east and southeast - destroyed rocks, partially covered with snow. From the south - a rocky ridge. To the west - a large scree, which ends in rocks at the bottom. Departure at 6:00. The path is in the Karasai river gorge. Exit to the "Enbek" pass via scree at 9:00. Further - along the ridge to the south. To the left - an ice wall, to the right - a frozen scree. Movement is exactly along the ridge. Three ascents are overcome. Before the fourth ascent - an ice couloir, which descends to the west to the Koksai river valley. The ascent is icy. Crampons and insurance via an ice axe. The length of the steep part of the ascent is 50–60 m, with three pitons hammered into it. Steepness is 45–50°. Further path is along the ridge of frozen rocks. On the summit at 12:00. Return to the west via scree with exit to the couloir. Descent to the Koksai valley at 15:00 (descent took 2 hours). To the base camp at 18:00. The weather is cold with wind, continuous cloud cover. The ascent was made on September 15, 1963, as part of the group:

• KONDRATYEV - leader - CMS
• GATSUTS - III sports category

Ascent to the summit "Karaganda"

The geodetic height is 4014 m. The summit is located in the Dzungarian Alatau, in its Main Northern ridge. It is situated in the main ridge near the Demekpe pass. A glacier descends from the summit to the north. Its upper part is gentle, but the steepness increases significantly towards the bottom. The north-eastern side is a continuous glacier, which is part of an ice cirque. To the south lies a rocky scree. From the west, there are scree slopes and rocks of moderate difficulty before the summit. Departure at 8:30. At the Demekpe pass by 11:00. From here, the path to the summit begins - eastward along the scree. We reach the ridge. A glacier descends from it to the north, and a snowy-ice cornice to the south. We pass the cornice on the left along the glacier, roped and in crampons. We reach rocks of moderate difficulty. The rocks are covered with snow and ice. Movement with alternating belay. The rock section is about 100 m high, with a steepness of 50–70°. At the summit by 13:00. Descent to the north along easy slopes for 100 m. We cross the glacier to the west and join the ascent route. Further descent follows the ascent path. Base camp by 17:30. The weather during the ascent was very poor. Visibility sometimes disappeared completely. Strong cold wind. Fog. The ascent was made on September 16, 1963. The group consisted of:

Route Description

From the Tuyuksu alpine camp, move towards the Mynzhilki weather station. After crossing the dam, turn east along the steep slope of the moraine and ascend to the bivouac of Alpingrad. From the main bivouac on the Alpengrad site, head towards the foot of the large couloir on the western side of the peak. The beginning of the approach to the route coincides with the route to Amangeldy from the West, category 1B. When entering the narrow couloir on the 1B route, it is necessary to traverse sharply to the left and exit onto the wide talus slope leading to the base of the northwest edge of the summit tower. The approach to the base of the summit tower abuts a steep wall 10-12 m high, which is passed by free climbing. The wall leads to the C-3 ridge, then:

• Turn right
• Pass along the rocky ridge with minor difficulty
• Reach the summit Descent is via the Southwest ridge, following the 1B route category. The ascent from the Tuyuksu alpine camp takes around 7-8 hours.

Recommendations

1. Number of participants: not limited.

Peak Asker (3350 m), via the spur on the right side of the Western slope, category 2A The approach to the mountain is described in the section on route category 1B. Immediately upon entering the rocky narrowing of the couloir before the summit, turn right onto a grassy ledge. Reach the ridge and proceed along it with simultaneous belay. A bastion on the rib 90 m along the route is bypassed as follows:

• Via a ledge on the left
• Through simple rock walls Further:
• Scree
• Exit onto route category 1B via a short rock wall
• Ascend the couloir to the ridge

Romana Ziasto traversing: 8th: Mine-maw, S. Tolgar, P. Tolgar, N. Tolgar, “right”, N. V. Tolgar (left — right)

Route Description

The initial bivouac is on the glacier on the south side of the southwest ridge in a safe location. The exit to the ridge is via a steep scree slope (takes no more than 30 minutes). The first жандарм (rock tower) on the route is bypassed on the left via slabs and a snow patch. Then, ascent is made up a steep snow and ice slope for 10–15 m (protection via protrusions). Beyond this section, there is an exit to the edge via rocks of medium difficulty, transitioning to difficult rocks. It is convenient to bypass them on the right, descending a few meters down, and crossing the scree, exit onto easy rocks of the ridge and approach the second жандарм via rocks of medium difficulty, sticking to the left side (protection via protrusions). The second жандарм, 7–8 m high, is overcome head-on with piton protection. It has a convenient platform for organizing shoulder belays. Descent from the жандарм does not present technical difficulties. The path to the third жандарм is as follows:

• a steep snow patch, dropping off towards the northwest wall of the summit (careful protection via ice axe);
• then — stick to the right rocks, which will make it possible to organize protection via protrusions in some places. The third жандарм is bypassed on the right via a ledge. Without reaching the couloir, ascend upwards between the passed жандарм and the ridge (50–60 m), leading to slabs (careful protection).

Location, History of Ascent, and Approach Routes

Peak named after I. V. Kurchatov is located in one of the spurs of the Left Talgar river basin and closes the Rusakova river gorge, which flows into the Left Talgar river (see map). The peak is clearly visible from the Kuldzhinsky tract on the segment between Malaya Stanitsa and Almaty tobacco farm, and has an impressive appearance. Its approximate height is 4200 m. It is not surprising that, being unclimbed, it attracted the attention of mountaineers from the Institute of Nuclear Physics of the Academy of Sciences of the Kazakh SSR. From the scientific town of INF, its summit stands out with its strict outlines against the background of surrounding peaks (photo 1, 2). Therefore, in August 1966, a group of mountaineers from INF consisting of:

• Saprykin V. D. — Master of Sports
• Il'inykh A. M. — 3rd sports category
• Gubanova A. M. — 3rd sports category
• Mukhamedshina D. M. — 3rd sports category accompanied by an observation group, made the first ascent to the unnamed peak 4200 m. Paying tribute to the achievements of the outstanding Soviet physicist I. V. Kurchatov (1903–1960), the mountaineer-physicists, as the first ascenders, named the conquered peak after I. V. Kurchatov.

Ascent Description for Peak Mukana Tulebaeva

The ascent starts with reaching the ridge of the 3850 peak towards the big gendarme. You should rope up under the gendarme. The gendarme is climbed directly via a snowy couloir. We ascend to its top via easy rocks with alternating belay. Further, there is a gentle ridge. The path is obstructed by a series of gendarmes composed of easy and moderate rocks. They are taken directly. You should proceed with caution, as the rocks are heavily deteriorated. Then, via a rather steep talus ridge, we reach the 3850 peak. (The peak was tentatively named Peak Auezov.) Further, descending via a short gentle ridge, we begin the ascent along the ridge of Peak Mukana Tulebaeva. The ridge is gentle, but the rocks are heavily deteriorated. Two gendarmes on the route are bypassed via a rather steep snowy slope on the left. The exit to the summit is via a gentle talus slope. The summit is heavily deteriorated and not clearly defined. The height is 3980 m. Descent is via the ascent route to the saddle between the 3850 peak and Peak Mukana Tulebaeva, and then via a couloir to the south. The couloir has medium and fine talus. The entire route takes about 8 hours. The group requests it to be rated as Category 1B difficulty.

Peak Mukana Tulebaeva

Peak Mukana Tulebaeva.

Muryntau (4539 m)

1. Ascent from the Togu­zak glacier via the gully of the north-western ridge.
2. Traverse Muryntau — Togu­zak from the Togu­zak glacier. Ascent from the Togu­zak glacier via the gully of the north-western ridge, route category 2. (fig. 10). The summit of Muryntau is located in the Trans-Ili Alatau ridge in the upper reaches of the right branch of the Togu­zak glacier. To the north-west of it:

• Togu­zak pass
• Togu­zak peak

5 Imakouk

4533 m Hovebka №2 4350 m R19

• R17
• R18 R16
• R14­–R15
• R12­–R8