Ascent Description for Peak Mukana Tulebaeva

The ascent starts with reaching the ridge of the 3850 peak towards the big gendarme. You should rope up under the gendarme. The gendarme is climbed directly via a snowy couloir. We ascend to its top via easy rocks with alternating belay. Further, there is a gentle ridge. The path is obstructed by a series of gendarmes composed of easy and moderate rocks. They are taken directly. You should proceed with caution, as the rocks are heavily deteriorated. Then, via a rather steep talus ridge, we reach the 3850 peak. (The peak was tentatively named Peak Auezov.) Further, descending via a short gentle ridge, we begin the ascent along the ridge of Peak Mukana Tulebaeva. The ridge is gentle, but the rocks are heavily deteriorated. Two gendarmes on the route are bypassed via a rather steep snowy slope on the left. The exit to the summit is via a gentle talus slope. The summit is heavily deteriorated and not clearly defined. The height is 3980 m. Descent is via the ascent route to the saddle between the 3850 peak and Peak Mukana Tulebaeva, and then via a couloir to the south. The couloir has medium and fine talus. The entire route takes about 8 hours. The group requests it to be rated as Category 1B difficulty.

Peak Mukana Tulebaeva

Peak Mukana Tulebaeva. View from the Paustovsky Glacier.