Fig. 11 39. Sugan Uzlovoy via the Western ridge (M. Roginsky's combined route, 4A cat. of difficulty, Fig. 11). The path from the "Nakhashbita" glade (group of 4-8 people) to the initial bivouac at Sugan-2 pass is described in routes 44 and 46, and the path from the base camp on the right bank of the Psygansu river, near the tongue of the Nakhashbita glacier, to the upper plateau of the Eastern branch of the Sugan glacier is described in route 48. On the Sugan glacier plateau:

• Approach Sugan-2 pass (between Sugantau peak on the right and Uzlovoy Sugan

57. Sugan False — South (combined route, category III, Fig. 12). The path from the "Nakhashbita" meadow (group of 4-8 people) to the summit of False Sugan is described in route 46. From the summit, descend via simple and moderately difficult rocks of the South ridge to the col. From the col, traverse via simple and moderately difficult, heavily destroyed rocks on the left side of the ridge ("live" stones — piton belay) bypass the rock "saw" consisting of several sharp gendarmes and reach the col. Then:

• overcome the I gendarme directly via moderately difficult rocks;
• descend to the col below the summit ascent of South Sugan;
• from the col, via steep, moderately difficult rocks of the North ridge (piton

58. Sugan Uzlovoy — Maly (Sugaev's combined route, category 5A, fig. 2, 11). The path from the "Nakhashbita" clearing (group of 4–8 people) to the summit of Uzlovoy Sugan is described in route 39. From the summit:

• descend 60–80 m down simple snow-covered rocks of the steep, narrow southeastern ridge (insurance);
• then along a snowy 30-meter col (cornice) approach the base of the summit tower of Central Sugan;
• from the col, ascend a 9–10-meter slab with few handholds;
• traverse right-up the slope to the ridge, and ascend the ridge to a shoulder;
• from the shoulder, descend 5–6 m;

ASCENT FORM

1. Area of ascent
2. Class of ascent
3. Peak, its height
4. Ascent route
5. Estimated difficulty category
6. Route characteristics
7. Pitons were not used
8. Number of nights and their characteristics
9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader, participants, their sports qualification

ASCENSION AREA — CHARODINSKY, EAST CAUCASUS, DASSR The summit METIKO 3814 m via the north face, category 2B Climbing team members:

• Leader: Timoshin Mikhail Egorovich Master of Sports of the USSR
• Pashuk Evgeny Grigorievich III category
• Kozarezov Evgeny Fedorovich —"—"—
• Leonov Petr Georgievich —"—"—
• Yakhyaev Ruslan Krimsultanov —"—"—

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent area — Kamchatka, Bystrinsky ridge.
2. Peak — Vlk. Vackhazhec 1547 m, via North-Eastern ridge.
3. Ascent class — Combined.
4. Estimated category of difficulty 1B (Winter)
5. Height difference — 850 m.
6. Route length — 1320 m.
7. Number of days — 1 day.
8. Number of travel hours — 6 hours.
9. Leader, participants, surname and initials, sports rank.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

• Climbing category — rock
• Climbing area — Kamchatka, Poperechny ridge
• Peak, its height, ascent route — Mt. Vilyuchinsky, 2173 m
• Proposed difficulty category — 2B
• Route characteristics — elevation gain — 1700 m, average steepness — 40–45°
• Pitons driven:
  • for rock protection — 4
  • ice — 1

Volcano Kozelsky, 2170 m, 1B, complexity category, to the SW slope, V. Maksimov, 1965. From the base camp in the upper reaches of the Kozelsky stream, an ascent is made along the slope to the plateau; crossing the plateau, one moves in the direction of the SW slope (see photo). The ascent goes along a snow-firn slope along the right side of a not very pronounced broad ridge in the direction of the summit cone. The exit to the cone is along the path on the left side. The average slope of the SW slope is 30 degrees. The ascent takes 4–5 hours. The descent is made along the ascent route.

Ascent Log

1. Ascent category - technical
2. Ascent area - group of volcanoes 30 km from Petropavlovsk-Kamchatsky at 55° N
3. Peak, its height, route - Kozelsky peak (2070 m), first western edge
4. Proposed category difficulty - 3B
5. Route description: | # | Sections | Length | Average steepness | |:--|:-----------|:-------------|:------------------| | 1 | 2 | 3 | 4 | | --- | ---------- | ------------- | ---------------- |

The summit of Dzhailyk has a 4B category of difficulty, the nature of the route is combined. The summit of Dzhailyk is located on the sixth north-western Adyr spur. To the east of Dzhailyk (in the eastern branch) lies the summit of Cheget-bashi, to the south lies the summit of Kichkidar, and to the west lies the summit of Tyu. The summit of Dzhailyk is surrounded by glaciers: the eastern and western ones, as well as the northern Pnom-Su. Three ridges branch out from the summit of Dzhailyk:

• to the Donkina pass,
• the eastern one - towards the glacier of the summit Dzhailyk Kinchat,
• the western one - turning into a long rocky fence, separating the glaciers of the western Dzhailyk and the northern Pnom-Su. To the north-east, Dzhailyk drops with sheer walls and steep slopes, falling into the ridge between the massifs of Dzhailyk and Tyu-Tyu-S. The route begins with an overnight stay on the Black Rocks in their branch from the western ridge to Dzhailyk, in the form of a short, barely noticeable rocky ridge. From the overnight site, it goes towards the main western ridge. At the beginning, the path goes along broken rocks to the first "gendarmes", which is bypassed on the left along a steep snow-ice slope. Above the "gendarmes" there is a snow shelf, then a simple rocky ridge of broken rocks begins. The length of this section of the ridge is 35-40 m. Having passed this ridge, they reach the second "gendarmes" with sheer walls to the north-west and east. This "gendarmes" is bypassed on the left along a snow-ice couloir. Having passed 35-40 m along the couloir, one should climb up a 5-meter sloping shelf, leading to a gentle slab. From the slab: