Fig. 11
- Sugan Uzlovoy via the Western ridge (M. Roginsky's combined route, 4A cat. of difficulty, Fig. 11).
The path from the "Nakhashbita" glade (group of 4-8 people) to the initial bivouac at Sugan-2 pass is described in routes 44 and 46, and the path from the base camp on the right bank of the Psygansu river, near the tongue of the Nakhashbita glacier, to the upper plateau of the Eastern branch of the Sugan glacier is described in route 48.
On the Sugan glacier plateau:
- Approach Sugan-2 pass (between Sugantau peak on the right and Uzlovoy Sugan on the left).
- Overcome the bergschrund on the plateau.
- Ascend the steep snow-ice slope (belaying) to the initial bivouac on Sugan-2 pass.
From the base camp - 5-5.5 hours.
At the pass, when ascending from the Doppakh glacier, turn right and reach the Western ridge of Uzlovoy Sugan peak via a snowy saddle. From here, along the steep, narrow 40-60-meter snowy Western ridge, bypassing small rock outcrops on the left, approach the base of the I gendarme's rock ascent.
Ascend the 25-meter wall of medium, местами above medium difficulty monolithic rocks to the left-upwards (pitched belaying).
Then:
- along a steep 40-meter snow-ice slope,
- and higher - along a simple 80-90-meter destroyed, местами medium difficulty and snow-covered ridge - ascend to the I gendarme.
From the gendarme, descend 60-70 meters down to a saddle along simple and medium difficulty destroyed rocks of the Western ridge.
Along the narrow, heavily cut, destroyed and snow-covered (possible cornices) 40-50-meter ridge of the saddle, approach the II gendarme and ascend its steep, heavily destroyed, medium difficulty rocks of the 100-120-meter ridge.
Further:
- descend along a gentle, simple, местами snow-covered rock western ridge to a snowy ridge.
Along the 150-180-meter snowy western ridge, then a narrow (possible cornices), short saddle, approach the III gendarme.
Overcome it head-on along complex, heavily destroyed rocks of medium difficulty on the ridge. Then, along a narrow snowy 120-150-meter western ridge (cornices) with simple rock sections, approach the base of the summit ascent slab.
Ascend a smooth slab 5 meters to a gully. Along steep destroyed rocks of the gully 30 meters upwards, then exit it to the left. Along a steep, smooth, with a crack, above medium difficulty slab 30-35 meters upwards (pitched belaying) to the summit ridge.
Further:
- 30 meters along rocks of medium difficulty,
- then 30 meters along simple rocks of the ridge - ascend to the summit of Uzlovoy Sugan.
From Sugan-2 pass: 5-7 hours.
Descend via the ascent route or, reaching the III gendarme, turn right and descend along a steep snow-ice slope with a bergschrund in the lower part to the Eastern branch of the Sugan glacier.
Route duration: 23 days.
Source: Naumov A. F. Karau gom, Digoriya, Tsey (Central Caucasus), M., "Physical culture and sport", 1976.