From the base camp at the foot of v. Aosol, ascend along the trail along the stream in the direction of the Western Tsiruk, then - overcoming moraine ridges - exit to the glacier. On the glacier, head towards v. Sadko, bypassing the moraines on the left, but not approaching the slopes of v.v. Aelita and Berendey - rockfalls are possible from there. Approach the base of the ice-rock couloir leading to the saddle to the left of v. Sadko (2 hours 30 minutes). From here, it is visible that the wall of v. Sadko is intersected in its lower part by two new couloirs, going from the main ice-rock couloir from left to right upwards. The couloirs are bounded by rocky, destroyed large ridges, leading to the main ridge of v. Sadko to the right of the summit. 0–I. Ascend up the main couloir (dirty ice with a high content of rubble, in the lower part of the couloir - 5–10 m of thawed, mobile layer of dirty rubble). Rockfalls! Ascent up the couloir under the cover of the 1st ridge, bypass it on the left, ascend to the ridge. Here you should look around. I–2. Along the rocky, destroyed ridge to the main ridge (movement is mostly simultaneous, in some places - alternating with belay through ledges). 2–3. Along the main ridge to the summit of Sadko (total from the foot - 2 hours). Route length - 25 km. Options:

• Ascent via the 2nd ridge - apparently equivalent.

ASCENT DOCUMENT

1. Ascent classification — technical, route — combined.
2. Ascent area, ridge — Central Tien-Shan, Terskey Ala-Too ridge.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — p. Slonenok, 4720 m, route through the center of the north-west wall.
4. Estimated category of difficulty — 5A.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 900 m, length of sections with 5th cat. diff. — 260 m, average steepness — 55°
6. Pitons hammered in: rock: for belay — 57 for creating TAE — 1

Route Description

for ascending Peak Tamma via the Southwest Ridge, Terskey Range, route category 2B, under the guidance of Salazko M.N., August 23, 1976. After leaving the Ala-Too alpine camp, cross the Oyuntyor River and follow the trail on its orographic left side upstream for 1.5 hours. Then, cross to the other bank via a large scree slope that blocks the river, and continue upstream along the trail for 20 minutes until you reach a visible stream flowing down the slope, which occasionally forms a waterfall. Leaving the waterfall on the left, ascend along the boundary between the grass and scree (there is a cairn along the way). After 1 hour of ascent, move along the grassy ledges into the couloir between two ridges that later form the Southwest Ridge of Peak Tamma. When ascending the couloir, be cautious on the rocky outcrops (smooth slabs with loose rocks). After 1.5 hours of movement from the river, approach a clearly visible 40-meter internal angle (1st control cairn). R1: traverse the internal angle with occasional protection, then use rock projections for protection to climb a 5-meter wall with a deep cleft (2nd control cairn). R2: continue along the ridge simultaneously, occasionally using variable protection through rock projections and piton protection. The ridge is sharp with characteristic feather-like gendarmes, deep fractures, and slabs. Movement along the ridge takes 2.5–3 hours. R3: the ridge then transitions into a rocky slope. Moving simultaneously along this slope, reach the pre-summit ridge and the summit in 30–40 minutes. Be cautious on the rocky slope due to numerous loose rocks. Descend from the summit along the rocky slope, leaving the ridge on the left. The descent leads into the cirque formed by two ridges at the summit. During the descent, orient yourself towards the couloir with a stream. The descent into the cirque takes 1.5 hours. There are cairns along the descent route.

Ascent Passport

I. Class: rock. 2. Region: Terskey Ala-Too ridge, Tashtambektor gorge. 3. Peak, its height, route: Central Sherkhan, 4220 m, via the Eastern ridge. 4. Estimated category of difficulty: 3B. 5. Characteristics: height difference: 400 m, average steepness: 40°, length of 5B sections: none. 6. Pitons hammered:

ASCENT PASSPORT

1. Climbing type: rock
2. Ascent area, ridge: S-3 Tian-Shan, Talassky ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: DJOLOY ZAPADNY (WESTERN) via the northern glacier slope
4. Estimated difficulty category: 4A
5. Route characteristics: height difference 630 m length of sections 5–6 difficulty category average steepness 50°
6. Pitons hammered: for insurance rock — ice — 42 bolted — for creating and organizing emergency stops rock — ice — bolted —
7. Number of travel hours: 6

Passport

First ascent to the summit peak 4804 (peak LTI) via the North-Eastern ridge, category 3B (tentative)

1. Class — technical
2. Climbing area — Pamir-Alay
3. Summit, height, ascent route — peak 4804 via NE ridge
4. Proposed difficulty category — 3B
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 260 m, average slope — 33°
6. Pitons driven: for belay — 17 Rock — 17 Ice —

ASCENT PASS

1. Class: rock
2. Climbing area: Pamir-Alai, Alai Ridge
3. Ascent route: Mashalyan peak via South face
4. Difficulty category: 5B (2nd)
5. Route characteristics:
   • elevation gain: 1020 m
   • length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category: 910 m
   • average steepness: 65°
6. Pitons used:

Ascent Passport

(4200 Peak via Western Wall edge, category 5A difficulty (tentative))

1. Type of ascent — rock climbing.
2. Ascent area — Alay mountain range.
3. Peak 4200, Western wall edge.
4. Proposed difficulty category — 5A (third ascent).
5. Route description Elevation gain: 600 m; length of sections 5–6 — 250 m; average steepness — 70°.
6. Pitons used: for belaying — 75 for creating artificial holds — 2.

Passport

1. Rock climbing category
2. Pamir-Alay. Koksu gorge.
3. Malenkiy Prints peak (4240 m) via the left part of the Eastern wall (route by Yu. Zadvoryev)
4. Difficulty category — 5B (3rd ascent of the route)
5. Height difference 850 m, length 1100 m. Length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category — 650 m Average steepness of main sections 68° (3650–4200)
6. Pitons driven: | Rock | Bolt | Nuts | Ice |

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area: southern spurs of the Alay mountain range, Kok-su river valley.
3. Rock massif (C-3) p. Spasatelya with subsequent ascent to v. Mramornaya (West)
4. Difficulty category ≈5A
5. Route characteristics: height difference — section lengths:
   • 3 — 270 m
   • 4 — 400 m