Report on the First Ascent

Djarlam South-East

from the south via the right couloir Utyashev Yu.A. Estimated difficulty 3B 2020 year

ASCENT PASSPORT

REPORT ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT OF DZHarlam CENTRAL (3160 m) VIA THE ROUTE 4A cat. diff. ALONG THE SOUTH-WESTERN WALL AND SOUTHERN BUTTRESS BY THE "UAL" TEAM ON APRIL 1, 2024

I. Ascent Passport

Chkalov Peak (local name — Anchobolameer), with a height of 4104 m, is located in the ridge of the Kad ridge — a northwestern spur of the Bogossky range. To the east of the summit rises Baydukov Peak (4081 m), to the west — Tsunkalata Peak (4084 m). The mountain is composed of black slate schist with sharp outcrops of dense crystalline sandstone. The northern spur of the mountain divides the Zigitli glaciers (to the west) and Belenge (to the east). The southern slope of the summit descends to the Osuka glacier. Along the northern spur of the mountain, a 2A category route is laid. The nearest peaks with laid routes are:

• Addala (1B, from Chakatly lake)
• Baydukov Peak (1B, along the ridge and 2A, from Belenge lake)
• Bochek (2B, traverse of three peaks)

Approach Description

From the camp located on the "Upper pasture" near Bichuga lake, go north along the foot of the "3900" mountain. Bypass the Osuka glacier icefall and go along the snow-covered transverse valley along the old right-bank moraine of the Osuka glacier to the point where it meets the southern slope of Chkalov Peak (alternative — up the center of the moraine). Then, a gentle ascent to the moraine ridge and exit to a flat area formed by the moraine and the slope of the Zigitli pass. This is the starting point of the route. From the camp — 2 hours.

Climbing Area: Eastern Caucasus, Bishiney Ridge, Charodinsky District, Dagestan ASSR.

MOUNT BISHINEY (4106 m), (Vishiney, 4043 m) combined route via the northern ridge, category 2A difficulty.

Group Composition:

leader — Basriev Zakir A. — Candidate Master of Sports, participants:

• Akhmedkhanov Kamil E. — 2nd sports category
• Pashuk Evgeny G. — 3rd sports category
• Leonov Petr G.
• Kozorezov Evgeny F.
• Nikhyaev Ruslan K.

I. Climbing category: combined 2. Climbing region: № 2.9 (East Caucasus) 3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: p. Bodonay 4049 m, via the northeast ridge 4. Proposed difficulty category: 2A 5. Route characteristics: — elevation gain 600 m — average steepness 40° — section lengths: R1 — 300 m, R2 — 600 m, R3 — 50 m 6. Pitons driven: rock: —

PASSPORT I. Rock class. 2. Caucasus, Dagestan mountains, Nukatl ridge. 3. Peak 3914 m (G. Gamidova) via the south-eastern ridge from Butnub pass 4. Proposed category 1B, first ascent 5. Elevation gain 2200 m, length 2200 m, average slope 30°, sections of category 1 difficulty — 200 m, sections of category 2 difficulty — 200 m 6. Pitons and nuts were not used, protection through rock features. 7. Climbing hours — 6 8. Overnight stays: only under the route 9. Leader: Leonov Pyotr Georgievich

2.10.38

ASCENT AREA — CHARODINSKY, EAST CAUCASUS, DASSR Traverse of peaks Severnaia (3780 m) — Glavnaia Dartsa (3906 m). Complexity category: 2B (approximately), 2A. Climbing group members:

• Leader: Timoshin Mikhail Egorovich (Master of Sports of the USSR)
• Basriev Zakir Aligadzhievich (Candidate for Master of Sports)
• Pashuk Evgeny Grigoryevich (II rank)
• Kozarezov Evgeny Fedorovich

№ 574 p.3. Over the rock.

Ascent Passport

2.10.39

1. Ascent class: rock climbing
2. Ascent area: 2.96, Dagestan mountains
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Ery-dag, 3900 m, N-3, from the plateau and along the 3rd ridge
4. Difficulty category: 3A

Climbing Passport

1. Climbing Category The climbing category is rock climbing.
2. Climbing Area, Ridge Eastern Caucasus. Main Caucasian Ridge.
3. Peak, its Height, Climbing Route 1st Western Yarydag. 4100 m via the Southern ridge from the plateau.
4. Estimated Difficulty Category Difficulty category - 3B.
5. Route Characteristics

82. Va­khushti via East Ridge (combined route, cat. 2A, fig. 5, 18).

From the starting bivouac on the upper plateau of Koruldashi Glacier (point 72) ascend a simple destroyed rocky slope to reach the first pinnacle of Vakhushti's East Ridge and traverse it on the left (belay) 20 m along the snow-rock boundary. Then ascend simple rocks of the East Ridge. Pinnacles:

• traverse the second sharp pinnacle on the right along the ledges;
• traverse the third pinnacle on the right along the ledges. Further, ascend the heavily destroyed, partly snowed simple rocky East Ridge, traverse a 3-meter wall on the left to reach the «saw».