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82. Va­khushti via East Ridge (combined route, cat. 2A, fig. 5, 18).

From the starting bivouac on the upper plateau of Koruldashi Glacier (point 72) ascend a simple destroyed rocky slope to reach the first pinnacle of Vakhushti's East Ridge and traverse it on the left (belay) 20 m along the snow-rock boundary. Then ascend simple rocks of the East Ridge.

Pinnacles:

  • traverse the second sharp pinnacle on the right along the ledges;
  • traverse the third pinnacle on the right along the ledges.

Further, ascend the heavily destroyed, partly snowed simple rocky East Ridge, traverse a 3-meter wall on the left to reach the «saw».

The «saw» section:

  • consists of several pinnacles;
  • traverse it on the right for 60–80 m (belay);
  • then exit below the rocky ascent.

The rocky ascent:

  • key segment;
  • loose rocks;
  • ascend 8–10 m to a ledge (belay).

From the ledge:

  • descend a simple destroyed rocky slope (belay);
  • then ascend a 30-meter ice-and-snow ascent with rocky outcrops (belay) on the East Ridge to reach the summit ridge.

Ascend a gently sloping snow (cornice) 150–170-meter ridge to reach the summit of Vakhushti.

From the starting bivouac — 35 hours.

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Fig. 18.

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Sources

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