3320 m a.s.l. syndrome (EC) (1/2­A)

Pankbaba Bazbora

PASSPORT

1. Region — Altai, spurs of the North-Chuya ridge, Karakabak gorge
2. Peak — Zhukov Georgy (3500 m)
3. Route — Cat. III, SW slope, first ascent
4. Height difference — 450 m Route steepness 35°. Protection via ledges
5. Climbing hours — 6.5 h from the lakes
6. Group composition: Vlasov V.A. — Master of Sports Onishchenko V.P. — International Master of Sports

DESCRIPTION OF THE FIRST ASCENT OF THE NORTH FACE OF THE EASTERN SUMMIT OF Karagem-bash (July 18-20, 1962) 5B cat. diff. The Karagem-bash peak (3972 m) is located in the central ridge of the North-Chuya mountain range of the Altai Mountains. The massif of this peak, stretching in the latitudinal direction, limits one of the largest glaciers of the Altai - the Maashai Glacier (length 10 km, area 15 km²) from the south. To the west of Karagem-bash in the same ridge stands the massif of the Maashai peak (4250 m), which is the highest point of all the North-Chuya Alps. To the east, the ridge from the Karagem-bash peak goes to the Tammas peak, from where it turns north to the Maashai pass. Numerous extensive glaciers descend from the peak to the south, giving rise to the Karagem River. To the north (to the Maashai Glacier), the Karagem-bash peak breaks off with a one-and-a-half-kilometer wall. Icefalls hang from the icy cap of the peak to the north, separated by steep rocky buttresses. The collapses of these icefalls occur along the lower sections of these buttresses, where they are less steep. The wall has a northern exposure and is illuminated by the sun for only a few hours a day (during the ascent - from 1:00 p.m. to 5:00 p.m.). The wall leading to the western peak was climbed in 1956 by a group led by V.S. Andreev. The route was classified as 5B cat. diff. The object of this ascent was the wall leading to the eastern peak of Karagem-bash and separated in the upper part from the route of V.S. Andreev's group by a cap of icefalls hanging from the peak. The entire Karagem-bash wall is clearly visible from the Maashai valley, which this peak closes.

Passport

1. Region — Altai. Northern spur of the South Altai ridge.
2. Peak — Pik Pamyati patriotov, 3926 m.
3. Route — via north-eastern ridge, 2A cat. dif., first ascent.
4. Height difference 500–600 m. Steepness of the route 25–35°. Insurance via ice axe.
5. Duration — 5.5 hours.
6. Group composition: Vlasov V.A. — Master of Sports. Semenov S.A. — 1st sports category. Tankova M.V. — 1st sports category.

Ascent Passport

1. Rock class
2. French Alps, Chamonix
3. Peak (massif) Grands Jorasses (4110 m), North face
4. Proposed 6A cat. sl. Third ascent of the route "No Siesta"
5. Height difference 1100 m, length 1000 m
6. Average steepness 68°, main part of the wall 78°
7. Moving hours 24 h, or 1.5 days.
8. Overnights: one seated on backpacks hung in the chimney.
9. Participants: Ruchkin Alexander Alexandrovich — MSMK

Ascent Log

1. Region – Alps, Switzerland, Zermatt.
2. Peak – Matterhorn 4478 m. Via the left part of the north face.
3. Assessed grade – 6B, variation of the Polish Route (ED2/3)
4. Nature of the route – combined

5. Route Characteristics:

Total elevation gain – 1280 m. Main section elevation gain – 810 m. Route length – 2000 m. Length of 6B sections – 370 m, 5B – 705 m.

www.alpfederation.ru Ascent Passport Region — Subpolar Urals. Research Ridge. Gorge — Mountain horseshoe of Oleny stream valley Section number according to KMGV-2001 – 8. "Other mountain systems, massifs" Peak name — Pobednaya Height — 1582 Route name — via the South Ridge Complexity category — Proposed category — 1B

Passport

1. Section number according to KMGV - 2010 - 8.3.47 Polar Ural, Raiiz mountain massif, Sob River valley.
2. Name of the peak: 1309.0 (Pik Polarny) - 1287 (Pik Topografov) height: 1309.0–1287 route: traverse from west to southeast
3. Category of difficulty: proposed 2Bz, pp.
4. Character of the route - combined.
5. Height difference of the route: 540 m
6. Length of the route: 6600 m

Ascent Passport

1 Northern Urals, Konzhakovsky massif. 2 Yuzhnyy (South) Iov 1311 m — via the N couloir of the slope of Iovskiy breach. 3 Proposed: 1Bz cat. dif., first ascent. 4 Route type: combined. 5 Height difference (by GPS) of the route: 460 m. Route length: 1900 m. Length of sections with III cat. dif.: 150 m. Length of sections with II cat. dif.: 100 m. Steepness of the main part of the route: 45°, on some sections up to 60°. 6 Number of "hooks" left on the route: none. Ice screws used: 2, snow stakes: 4, slings: 4 — all for organizing belays. 7 Departure from the "Serebryansky Kamen" tourist base on March 11, 2014 at 07:50. Departure to the route: March 13, 2014 at 09:45. On the summit: March 13, 2014, 12:55. Descent from the summit to the bivouac (via the central couloir of Iovskiy breach): March 13, 2014, 15:15. Return to the "Serebryansky Kamen" base: March 13, 2014, 22:15.