Fig. 17

Traversing p. Akritov (3705 m) — p. Agibalova (3705 m) from E.

Caucasus, Sugansky ridge

Strebejev V.N.

July 20, 2002

Passport

1. Technical category
2. Caucasus, Digoria, Sugansky ridge
3. Traversing p. Akritov (p. 3705 m, E) — p. Agibalova (p. 3705 m, W), from E.
4. Suggested — 3B cat. diff. rock
5. Height difference 900 m, length 1150 m.

Galdor Centralny, 3980 m, via the South Buttress Wall, Caucasus, Sugan Range. Strebeyev V.N., August 18, 1995

Passport

1). Technical category 2). Caucasus, Digoria, Sugan Range 3). Galdor Centralny via the S buttress wall (3980) 4). Proposed — 3B cat. diff. combined 5). Height difference 1100 m, length 1300 m, section lengths:

• 3A — 3B cat. diff. — 90 m (buttress),
• 4A cat. diff. — 30 m (inner corner, "Rusty Wall").

ST. PETERSBURG FEDERATION OF ALPINISM, ROCK CLIMBING AND ICE CLIMBING

Report

On the first ascent of the team a/c "Gorniak" to the peak Severny Svetgar 3510 m

via the North-Eastern spurs of the South-Eastern ridge. Presumably 2B cat. diff.

Climbing Passport

1. Central Caucasus, Svaneti, section 2.4.1 of the route classifier for mountain peaks
2. Svetgar Severny 3510 m. Via the North-Eastern spurs of the South-Eastern ridge.
3. Proposed 2B cat. diff. first ascent.
4. The route is rocky (summer).
5. Height difference: 510 m

но­сти 30–35 м straight up. Да­лее 80 м вверх по кру­тым ска­лам сред­ней труд­но­сти Во­сточ­но­го ре­бра and along a 20-meter vertical difficult chimney to ascend to a slanting shelf. Along the shelf, traverse under the wall to the right to a vertical cleft. Up a difficult 20-meter cleft in the wall (the key point of the route) to ascend to a slanting shelf. From the shelf, along icy rocks 25 m up to a rocky site on the Во­сточ­но­го ре­бра. From the site, 250–300 m up and to the right along a snowy ridge, then along the slope. Then, traverse up and to the right through an icy-snowy couloir and move to the right onto rocky shelves. From the shelves, 1215 m:

• up and to the right along moderately difficult, разру­шен­ным ска­лам,

Report

On the ascent to the peak Treugolnik (3830 m) via the Central-North slope, category III complexity, by the team of Alpcamp "Polytechnic" on July 28, 2022.

I Ascent Passport

Passport

1. Climbing category — rock.
2. Central Caucasus, NW spur of the Main Caucasian Ridge, Mt. Gumači.
3. Mt. Viatau 3820 m via the 3rd ridge, combined route.
4. Proposed category of difficulty: 2B confirmed.
5. Height difference: 530 m, distance: 1060 m. Length of sections with III category of difficulty: 145 m, IV category of difficulty: 15 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route: 47°.
6. Pitons hammered in: rock — 9/0, chocks — 2/0
7. Traveling hours — 5

Report

ON THE ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT "VMF" VIA THE EASTERN RIDGE, CATEGORY 2B BY THE TEAM OF ALPCLUB "POLITECHNIK" "POLITECH-4" FROM AUGUST 4, 2022 TO AUGUST 4, 2022

I. Ascent Passport

125. Volnaya Ispaniya via the East ridge (V. Abalakov's route, cat. 4A). The path from the "Jantugan" alp camp (group of 4-8 people) to the sites near the "Ryzhie" rocks at the end of the left-bank moraine of the Kashkatash glacier is described in route 121. From the sites, proceed along the moraine and talus along the glacier, then descend onto it and ascend along its left side (closed crevasses!). Bypass the icefall from the left under the slopes of Ullukara peak (stonefall and icefall are possible from Ullukara!). Having passed the icefall, ascend, keeping to the left side of the glacier, along its upper plateau to the saddle of the ridge connecting Ullukara peak on the left and Volnaya Ispaniya peak on the right — Kashkatash pass. From the plateau, ascend along a gently sloping snow-ice slope, keeping to the slopes of Volnaya Ispaniya peak, to Kashkatash pass. From the pass, turn right and ascend 100-120 m along a steep snow-ice slope (cornice, piton belay!) onto the East ridge of Volnaya Ispaniya peak. Further, move along the snowy (cornices!), then along a simple, strongly destroyed rocky ridge. Two small gendarmes are to be overcome head-on:

• the 1st gendarme can be bypassed on the right,
• the second — on the left ("live" stones, belay!),
• descend into a small saddle after the gendarmes. From the saddle:
• along the snowy ridge (cornices!),
• then along a 70-80-meter ice-snow slope (piton belay!),

Sportsman's Day via the Eastern Ridge (from Jalovchat Pass), combined, 16 hours

Route description:

Link up on the pass. The ascent via the eastern ridge should start up a snowy slope between rocky outcrops with an initial steepness of about 30° (40 m), then up to 45° (40 m). The snowy slope leads to the 1st low rock tower. From it, 40 m of easy ridging leads to a rock wall (5 m) and an icy (snowy) gully to the right of it, below the 2nd rock tower. The wall has good handholds and after 5 m turns into a steep ridge of the 2nd rock tower. After 40 m, there's an exit onto the 2nd rock tower. There's a control cairn here. For a large group, this ascent variant to the 2nd rock tower is safer. Although another option is possible: traverse the gully with an exit to the opposite rocky ridge (20 m) and then (40 m) move along this ridge over easy to moderately difficult rocks, and in the upper part, traverse the gully to the right (15 m) onto the main ridge. Further, about 20 m on broken rocks (!) of moderate difficulty (intermittent belay). The rocks lead to the 2nd rock tower. There's a control cairn here. Further, 10 m of easy ridging and a wall with a cleft (5–6 m) lead to the rocks of the ridge with good handholds (40 m). Belay using protrusions. Then another 40 m of easy ridging leads to below the 3rd rock tower Palen. The 3rd rock tower is bypassed either on the right - on snow, or on the left - on ledges (belay using protrusions), which lead to a snowy ridge (120 m). The snowy ridge starts with a steep snowy (possibly icy) knife-edge (10 m). Further, 80 m of a not-steep snowy ridge with cornices to the right. The adjacent ridge leads to a rock wall (5 m), which is climbed on the right (along the route); further along a large-block rocky ridge (250 m) and about 20 m on snow, we reach the summit, which is a rocky tower (5 m). There's a control cairn on the tower. (From Jalovchat Pass - 2.5-2 hours).