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COMBAT TRAINING DEPARTMENT OF TURKESTAN MILITARY DISTRICT COMMITTEE FOR PHYSICAL CULTURE AND SPORTS UNDER THE COUNCIL OF MINISTERS OF UZSSR REPORT ON THE ASCENT OF THE HIGHEST POINT IN THE USSR – STALIN PEAK (height 7495 m) VIA THE EAST RIDGE Tashkent 1958 ROUTE SCHEMATIC OF THE ASCENT TO STALIN PEAK (Height 7495 m)

I. Geographical Location and Sporting Characteristics of Stalin Peak

Ascent Log

1. Ascent category — High-altitude
2. Ascent area — Central Pamir, Bivachny Glacier
3. Ascent route with peak names and elevations — East ridge of Peak Kommunizma, 7495 m
4. Ascent description: height difference 2895 m, average slope 40°, complex section length — 277 m
5. Number of pitons used: rock — 23, ice — none, bolted — none
6. Total climbing hours — 28 h 30 min
7. Number of bivouacs and their description — six: during ascent — on 4600 m № 1, on 5900 m № 2, on 6400 m № 3, on 6900 m № 4; during descent — on 6900 m № 4, on 5600 m № 5. All bivouacs were lying down and comfortable.

Altai Regional Alpine Federation

For the Championship of the Soviet Union in the class of high-altitude ascents.

Report

on the ascent of Peak Kommunizma (7495 meters) via the counterfort from the Belyaev Glacier (sixth category of difficulty) Barnaul, 1969

I. Brief geographical description and sporting characteristics of the ascent object

In the center of the North-Western Pamir, at the junction of two ridges – Peter the First and Academy of Sciences, on the territory of the Tajik SSR is located the highest peak of the Soviet Union – Peak Kommunizma. The area of Peak Kommunizma, which has a height of 7495 meters above sea level, is the most elevated part of the Pamir. The snow line in this area is at an altitude of 4000–4300 m. The sharply continental climate creates favorable conditions for the formation of ice, which covers the slopes of the ridges, peaks, and, sliding down from them, accumulates in the valleys. For example, glaciers:

• Fedchenko
• Garmo
• Gando

ASCENT DOCUMENT I. Ascent class - high-altitude 2. Ascent area, ridge - Central Pamir, Academy of Sciences Ridge. 3. Peak, its height, ascent route - Peak Kommunizma, 7495 m, via the counterfort of the SW slope from Belyaev Glacier 4. Difficulty category - 6 5. Route characteristics: height difference - 2800 m length of sections with 5-6 cat. difficulty - 1975 m average steepness (up to 6950 m) - 54° 6. Pitons used: for belaying, for creating intermediate anchors.

INTERNATIONAL ALPINISM CAMP “PAMIR”

REPORT

On the Ascent to Peak Kommunizma

VIA THE SOUTHWEST RIDGE SPUR FROM BEYLYAEV GLACIER

Category of Difficulty: 6th cat.

Team Members:

• STUDENIN B.A.
• KOROVKIN O.A.
• MEDVEDEV V.M.
• CHERNY N.D.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: high-altitude.
2. Ascent area: Central Pamir, Academy of Sciences range.
3. Peak: Peak Kommunizma (7495 m) via the southwest ridge from Belyaev Glacier.
4. Difficulty category: 6B.
5. Route characteristics:
   • elevation gain 2800 m
   • length of sections R0–R1 diff. cat. — 430 m.
   • average steepness of the ridge — 50°.

Report

On the ascent of Peak Kommunizma (7495 m) via the left edge of the north-eastern wall from the Ordzhonikidze Glacier by the LGS team of "Spartak" DSO

• August 3–17, 1972
• First ascent.

III. General Description of the Route

The eastern ridge of Peak Kommunizma, by which the first ascent was made in 1933, is the right (orographic) side of the Ordzhonikidze Glacier. The orientation of the ridge is close to latitudinal, and its slopes are steep walls exposed to the North. Due to the northern orientation, the walls have significant glaciation, often expressed in the form of hanging glaciers. As one advances towards the upper reaches of the Ordzhonikidze Glacier, the steepness of the walls increases, reaching its maximum at the junction of the main massif of Peak Kommunizma and the ridge leading to Peak Izvestiy. The summit of the North shoulder of the Peak Kommunizma massif (around 4.8 km) is dominant over the Ordzhonikidze Glacier cirque. Here, the ice masses can no longer cling to the slope (steepness reaches 60–65° in the middle and about 80° in the upper part of the wall) and expose rocky outcrops. This is the northern wall of Peak Kommunizma (Photo 2). The wall is bounded on the right by the icefall from the ridge between Peak Kommunizma and Peak Izvestiy, and on the left by a hanging glacier. The rocks are schist. The orientation of the strata is inclined, so the rocky masses intersect the wall from right to left at an angle of about 45°. The icy slopes between the rocky walls and the schistose nature of the massif stimulate frequent avalanches and rockfalls crossing the rocky outcrops. These circumstances deprive climbers of natural shelters and dividing counterforts when ascending the wall centrally.

Championship of the USSR in Alpinism, High-Altitude Class

Report of the CS DSO "Mehnat" Team on the Ascent to Peak Kommunizma 7495 m via the NE Counterfort.

Team Captain: VORONIN V. G. Team Coach: ZEL'CHIEVKOV V. A. Pamir - Tashkent 1970
THE TEAM DEDICATES ITS ASCENT ON PIK KOMMUNIZMA 7495 m TO THE XXIV CONGRESS OF THE CPSU

I. Route Description.

August 10, 1970 - Approach from the Base Camp to the route. August 11, 1970 - Start of the route (R0–R1) on a snowy slope transitioning into an icy slope, bypassing the avalanche cone on the right.

Report

TEAMS OF CS DSO «MEKHNAT» ON ASCENT TO PEAK KOMMUNIZMA VIA NORTH-EAST FACE IN THE PROGRAM OF THE USSR CHAMPIONSHIP IN ALPINISM IN THE HIGH-ALTITUDE CLASS Tashkent — 1978 to Peak Kommunizma 7495 m

Brief Geographical Description and Sporting

Characteristics of the Object

Peak Kommunizma 7495 m is the highest peak in the Pamir Mountains, located at the junction of the Akademiya Nauk and Petra I ranges. The height of the peak was first determined

Report

on the ascent of the Leningrad Sports Committee team to Peak Shchurovsky via the Western wall "Surka" and the edge of the bastion of the Northern wall, category 5B (variant) Team captain — S.G. Kalmykov Team coach — A.I. Moshnikov Central Caucasus January – February 1983

Brief geographical description and sporting characteristics of Peak Shchurovsky

Peak Shchurovsky is located in the Main Caucasian Range, which forms a complex zigzag in this area. The south-eastern ridge descends to the Western peak of Chatyn-Tau, and the north-eastern ridge descends to the Lожный Chatyn pass. To the south of the peak, reaching an altitude of 4100 m, is the famous Ushba plateau, descending along the western slopes of the peak with a grandiose Ushba icefall. The northern wall of the peak faces the Shkheldinsky glacier. On its kilometer-long slope, cut by snow and ice couloirs, the upper bastion stands out with a dark steep face, the right edge of which rests on the north-western counterfort, having a steep western wall. The rocks of the bastion and the western wall "Surka" are characterized by their monolithic nature and smoothed relief, reminiscent of the relief: