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ON THE FIRST ASCENT OF KOMURZANG PEAK (4653 m) VIA THE WEST RIDGE, APPROXIMATELY CATEGORY 3B DIFFICULTY Komurzan Peak is located in the northern spur of the central part of the Vanch Range. It is clearly visible from the Vanch River valley between the villages of Sungat and Garmchashma. It is a triangular peak with moderately pronounced counterforts between the West and Northwest ridges. A large snowfield lies between these ridges, transitioning into a canyon.

Approach to the Route Description

From the base camp in the Vanch River valley between the villages of Garmchashma and Sungat, proceed to the West ridge and follow it to the "letovka" (3–3.5 hours). Continue along the ridge with rock outcrops to the start of the ridge ascent (3–3.5 hours) — the overnight location. A tent site can be prepared on the ridge; snow is available on the northern slope, but there is no water.

Route Description

From the overnight location, ascend the severely damaged rock ridge with small (2–5 m) walls to the red wall (section R0–R1, 1.5–2 hours). Movement is simultaneous, with insurance through ledges at certain points. At the base of the red wall, there is a control cairn on a platform (rockfall hazard!). The red wall (section R1–R2) — 1.5 ropes — is traversed on the right side, with an exit to the left at the top ("live" rocks, pitons!). There are no convenient locations for organizing insurance on this section.

Individual ice seracs reach 50–550. The snow is not deep — 30–40 cm, but it lies on a firn cushion. Movement with alternating belay through ice axe. In the upper part, before reaching the pre-summit ridge:

• the slope is more gentle
• simultaneous movement On the ridge leading to the summit, there are a number of snow seracs. The steepness of these seracs is 60–65°. The seracs drop off with sheer walls to the west, and to the east, they slope down with steep snow-ice slopes. The snow is fluffy and deep. It takes a long time to stamp out footholds. The exit to the summit is along a sharp rocky-snowy edge. A cairn is built 3–4 m below the highest point on the last rocky outcrop. The time taken to move from the highest point of the wall from the overnight stop to the summit is 5–6 hours. The descent from the summit is along the eastern ridge to the "stockade", which is bypassed on the right, following the path, with an exit onto a snowy ridge that goes across the main ridge leading to the summit of 5050 m. There is a place to spend the night in a characteristic hollow. On the summit of 5050 m, a 4th control cairn is built. The time taken to move from the summit of 5285 m to 5050 m is 1.5–2.0 hours. The descent from the summit of 5050 m is along a snowy edge — a "needle" — to the north. The edge is very sharp and dense, 10–15 cm wide. To the left, there is a steep slope with dense firn; to the right, there is deep snow that gives way underfoot. Descent along the "needle" to the rocky outcrops:

Climbing Report on Peak Lenin via Arkin's Route (Variation)

Climbing Details:

1. Pamir. Peak Lenin, 7134 m. Via the center of the north face, Arkin's route. Route type – snow and ice. Route elevation gain 2700 m.
2. Climbing style: alpine.
3. Average steepness: main part of the route – 40–45°.
4. Pitons left on the route: 0

PLATEAU 6100 NORTHERN SLOPE OF THE EASTERN RIDGE OF PEAK LENIN

Climbing Description

The ascent route follows the path to Peak Lenin via Lipkin Rock.

Day 1

From the base camp at 3600 m, the path goes through pastures and "Onion Glade" to the foot of "Tent Rock." Then, through a lateral gorge, it follows a trail that leads to a saddle in the ridge named "Travelers' Pass." From "Travelers' Pass," the trail initially descends and then traverses to the right across talus slopes, crosses a canyon, and bypasses a standalone rock on the left. Upon reaching the glacier, a zone of lateral crevasses is encountered. The ice is heavily covered with debris. The path up the glacier towards Lipkin Rock initially follows its middle part and then, bypassing the icefall on the right, moves to the right orographic moraine, which is a chain of black hills of talus material extending from the foot of Lipkin Rock. The glacier in its upper part is closed, requiring travel in ropes. At the moraine near the foot of Lipkin Rock, there is a large area suitable for overnight stays, a common stop for many expeditions heading to Peak Lenin from the north. The height of this location is 4200 m. There is water available, and many areas for tents. The journey from the "Vysochnik" alpine camp to the 4200 m overnight stay took 6 hours. We take a one-hour rest to prepare hot food. We bypass Lipkin Rock on the right and, entering a wide snowy couloir, ascend through the snow, cutting steps, to the ridge of Lipkin Rock, marked in descriptions as 5200 m. The ascent to Lipkin Rock from 4200 m took 2 hours. On the ridge, there are many cleared areas for tents, and on the snowy plateau to the left of the ridge, water can be uncovered under the snow. On a terrace below the ridge, the remains of Lipkin's plane are visible.

REPORT

On Ascent to Lenin Peak 7134 m via the South-West Ridge of the Western Crest (First Ascent of the Route)

1. ASCENT DETAILS

1. Region: Zaalaysky Range (Pamir). Valley: Malaya Saukdara. Section number according to the classification table – 4.4
2. Name of the peak: Lenin Peak. Name of the route: via the South-West Ridge of the Western Crest.
3. Proposed category: 5A, first ascent.
4. Route characteristics: snow-ice.
5. Height difference on the route: 1134 m (by GPS).

1. Climbing category — High-Altitude Technical
2. Climbing region — Trans-Alai Range, Dzhanam-Dartakai gorge, upper reaches of Korzhenevsky glacier.
3. Peak 5285, First ascent (proposed name: Chelyabinsk Peak) via North-Eastern ridge. Ice and snow.
4. Proposed category complexity — 3A.
5. Height difference ~ 760 m, average slope ~ 36°.
6. Pitons driven — 0.
7. Time on the route — 11 hours.
8. Number of overnight stays — none.
9. Retyunsky Yuri Dmitrievich — Master of Sports of the USSR — team leader
   1. Leontiev Vasily Viktorovich — Candidate Master of Sports

Ascent Passport

1. Pamir, Trans-Alay Range, Achik-Tash gorge, category 4.4 according to the 2017 classification table.
2. Unnamed peak 4825 m, proposed name — Aleksey Didurov Peak, named after the famous Russian poet, via the North face and North-East ridge. Peak coordinates: 39.454557 72.957681, GPS altitude 4834 m. No cairn or note was found on the summit. Information about previous ascents is not available.
3. Proposed category — 3B, first ascent.
4. Route type: ice and snow.
5. Route elevation gain: 530 m according to GPS. Route length: 850 m. Section lengths:
   • Category V — 0 m.
   • Category VI — 0 m.

On the first ascent to the summit of Pik Universiteta ITMO via the center of the Northern wall, category 4A, by the Ak-Sai Travel team — MPEI alpine club, from 26.08.2019 to 26.08.2019

I. Ascent Passport

Report

On the first ascent of the route to the summit UNIVERSITET ITMO via the North-Eastern ridge — 3A category of complexity (presumably). By the team of climbers: Inozemtsev, Sokhatsky, Kurzin. For the period June 20, 2019.

32. Western summit of Elbrus via the Western shoulder (route category 2B, fig. 8–10). From the village of Terskol, ascend first along the road, then along the trail on the right side of the Azausue valley and, after 4 hours, reach the initial bivouac at the Old Panoramic Viewpoint (Stary Krogzor) located on the southernmost (southeastern) spur of the Elbrus massif. From the Panoramic Viewpoint (departure at 2–3 am) turn left and via the moraine, and then along the Maly Azau glacier, reach the snowy plateau. Across the plateau (covered crevices!), then along a small, gently sloping snowy slope, reach the rocky ridge to the right (north) of the Khotiu-Tau pass and the Nameless avalanche glacier descending into the Ullukam valley. From the Old Panoramic Viewpoint, 4–4.5 hours. Here, turn right and along the simple rocks of the ridge, reach the rocky ridge descending into the Ullukam valley, along the right bank of the avalanche glacier. Traverse this ridge and along simple, in places moderately difficult, destroyed, snow-covered (cornices!) rocks of the ridge, ascending in the direction of the Western shoulder, reach the snowy ridge. Along the sharp (cornices!), then wide snowy ridge, ascend to the Western shoulder of the Elbrus massif. On a small snowy saddle to the right of the shoulder — bivouac. From the Khotiu-Tau pass, 3–5 hours. From the saddle, ascend northeast along the snowy fields with gradually increasing steepness, traverse left to avoid the Western summit of Elbrus and reach below the northwestern rocky ridge of the Western summit. From here, along the simple rocks of the ridge or along the snow beside the rocks — a steep ascent to the Western summit of the Elbrus massif. From the shoulder, 5–6 hours.