Approach Description

From the confluence of the Zaki and Zrug rivers along the dirt road that runs along the Zrug River to the ruins of the church. About 20 km. A kilometer upstream, the river splits into two tributaries:

• Follow the right tributary eragrafically for 1.5 hours to the kosh.
• Then, head right along the stream (eragrafically, the left side of the gorge).
• Enter a small cirque formed by two ridges of p. Skryabina. Bivouac is possible. From the church, it takes 4–4.5 hours.

Route Description

P. Skryabina via the North Ridge, category III difficulty. From the bivouac, head right onto the ridge. Then, along the ridge for 250–300 m (R0–R1), category I difficulty. After that, the ridge turns into a mountain slope with minor ascents (R1–R2), 100 m, category II difficulty.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent Class — Technical
2. Ascent Region — Central Caucasus
3. Summit — Pik Shestirekh via the South Face
4. Estimated Difficulty Category — 5B
5. Route Characteristics:
   • Elevation Gain — 1100 m
   • Average Steepness — 65°
6. Pitons Driven:
   • Rock Pitons — 95

Description of the route to the summit of Tsey-Loam via the SW wall (Trikozov's route), 4A category of difficulty 2.9.54 according to KMGV

Trikozov's route on Tsey-Loam peak in the Dzheyrakh district of Ingushetia is an interesting, moderately complex and technical line. In the first ascenders' report, the category of difficulty is indicated as 3A, while in the FAR classifier, it is listed as 4A category of difficulty. The name "via the NW wall" is a typo; the route actually follows the SW wall. The route is more challenging than the route through a series of chimneys on the right part of the SE wall on Zub peak, 4A category of difficulty, but easier than Donskov's route on the left edge of the SW ridge on Koazoy-Loam peak, 4B category of difficulty. The route is not recommended as a first independent 4A climb: it involves pendulum moves, diagonal belays, and artificial climbing techniques (ITC), and requires navigation skills on the approach and the route. Descending via the ascent route is complicated due to numerous diagonal sections. The approach to the route starts along the grassy slopes immediately behind the Kyazi tourist center in the direction of the SW wall of Tsey-Loam peak (photo 1). The jagged peaks are bypassed on the left via grassy ledges. The route's landmark is the couloir running along the SW wall and a massive plug at its beginning (photo 3). Photo 1. Approach from Kyazi tourist center. Internet photograph R0–R1: A 10 m wall of easy climbing, bypassing the plug in the couloir, followed by 600 m along the couloir. Scree, "ram's foreheads," and hard firn at the beginning of May. The simple terrain leads out to the right from the couloir onto the R1 ridge between the wall and the rocky ridge (photo 4). The main couloir continues upwards (photo 5). R1–R2: 60 m upwards of easy climbing.

Russian Mountaineering Championship 2021 Class of High-Altitude Technical Ascents.

Report

on the ascent to the summit of Tsey-Loam (Kyazi) 3171 via the route through the center of the S wall (Kurochkin's route), 5B category of difficulty by the team from Samara Region for the period from October 28 to 29, 2021. 2021 year

1. Ascent Passport

Alpinism Federation of the Republic of Buryatia

Report on the ascent of FARB team to the summit of Gaikomd, first ascent via the left part of the southeast wall

Russian Championship. Technical Class. February 2017 Ulan-Ude 2017

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent area: Caucasus, from Krestovyi pass to Shaviklde peak
2. Peak: Gaikomd, 3192 m, first ascent via the left part of the SE wall
3. Estimated category of difficulty: 5B, first ascent.
4. Route characteristics: rock.

Ministry of Sports of Krasnoyarsk Krai

Krasnoyarsk Regional Alpine Federation

Russian Mountaineering Championship

2018

Snow and Ice Class

Report

On the first ascent by the Krasnoyarsk Krai team – 1 to the summit of Gaikomd (Kyazi) Main, 3171 m, via the central left part of the SE wall, named "Nebo yanvarya" (January Sky). The first ascent is approximately category 6A difficulty. Krasnoyarsk 2018

Team Leader:

Zhigalov Alexander Vladimirovich

REGIONAL PUBLIC ORGANIZATION "FEDERATION OF ALPINISM OF MOSCOW REGION"

Russian Championship in Alpinism

2024 year

High-Altitude Technical Class

Report

on the ascent made by the team of GK UAL Moscow Region – Perm Krai to the summit of Tsey-Loam (Kyazi), 3171 m via the left part of the SE wall (K. Dorro's route), 6A category of complexity, from 04.06.2024 to 04.06.2024 Cherepovets 2024 ASCENT DOCUMENT | 1.1 | Full name, sports rank of the team leader | Chikin Artem Borisovich (CMS) |

St. Petersburg Championship. High-Altitude Technical Class

2024 Alpkлуб "Gorniak" Team

Report

Ascent of Koazoy-Loam (3100 m) via the right part of the SE wall, Glazunova route, 5A category of difficulty February 29 - March 1, 2024 Sirel Alexander Nikolayevich, Pavlenko Georgy Dmitrievich, Kachkov Vladimir Vladimirovich

I. Ascent Passport

Russian Mountaineering Championship

Technical Climbing Category

Ascent Report

TO THE SUMMIT OF KOAZOY-LOAM (3100 m) VIA THE LEFT PART OF THE SOUTHWEST WALL (LIVINSKY'S ROUTE) 6A category of difficulty by the team from Voronezh Region, October 29-31, 2024

I. Ascent Passport

Report on the second ascent by the team from the multifaceted mountaineering club "Freeline" in Essentuki

To the summit of Zub Sofruju

via the direttissima of the western wall, 6A category of difficulty Leader: Popov Mikhail Lvovich Coach: Motienko Nikolai Ilyich Essentuki 2020 Addresses: 357600, Stavropol Krai, Essentuki, Oktyabrskaya St., 434, apt. 59 Popov M.L. 89282657130