Description of the route to the summit of Tsey-Loam via the SW wall (Trikozov's route), 4A category of difficulty 2.9.54 according to KMGV

Trikozov's route on Tsey-Loam peak in the Dzheyrakh district of Ingushetia is an interesting, moderately complex and technical line. In the first ascenders' report, the category of difficulty is indicated as 3A, while in the FAR classifier, it is listed as 4A category of difficulty. The name "via the NW wall" is a typo; the route actually follows the SW wall. The route is more challenging than the route through a series of chimneys on the right part of the SE wall on Zub peak, 4A category of difficulty, but easier than Donskov's route on the left edge of the SW ridge on Koazoy-Loam peak, 4B category of difficulty. The route is not recommended as a first independent 4A climb: it involves pendulum moves, diagonal belays, and artificial climbing techniques (ITC), and requires navigation skills on the approach and the route. Descending via the ascent route is complicated due to numerous diagonal sections.

The approach to the route starts along the grassy slopes immediately behind the Kyazi tourist center in the direction of the SW wall of Tsey-Loam peak (photo 1). The jagged peaks are bypassed on the left via grassy ledges. The route's landmark is the couloir running along the SW wall and a massive plug at its beginning (photo 3).

Photo 1. Approach from Kyazi tourist center. Internet photograph

R0–R1: A 10 m wall of easy climbing, bypassing the plug in the couloir, followed by 600 m along the couloir. Scree, "ram's foreheads," and hard firn at the beginning of May. The simple terrain leads out to the right from the couloir onto the R1 ridge between the wall and the rocky ridge (photo 4). The main couloir continues upwards (photo 5).

R1–R2: 60 m upwards of easy climbing.

R2–R3: Along a ledge to the right towards an internal corner. Upwards through it, to the base of a flake with a loop (photo 6).

R3–R4: 5 m upwards to a loop on the flake. From it, a pendulum swing to the right (photo 7), onto an inclined slab, which is traversed to the right (photo 8).

R4–R5: Traverse to the right for 35 m to the base of a small internal corner.

R5–R6: The crux. Up the internal corner for 10 m using ITC or difficult climbing (photo 9). Another 15 m along an inclined slab to a hammered anchor with a carabiner. From it, a pendulum swing to the right, into the base of an internal corner.

On photo 2, with the overall route line, the crux is marked with a green line. The red line in this section is drawn incorrectly.

R6–R7: Upwards along the left wall of the internal corner (photo 10). In the upper part, there are 5 m of difficult climbing (photo 11). Exit onto an inclined ledge, station at the base of the next internal corner.

R7–R8: Upwards through the internal corner for 60 m, station under overhanging rocks.

R8–R9: From the station, traverse to the right, then upwards to the right, onto a ledge under overhanging rocks.

R9–R10: The overhang is bypassed along the wall to the right, with 15 m of climbing leading out into a couloir with simple terrain. The couloir contains many loose rocks.

R10–R11: Upwards through simple terrain in the direction of the summit. Exit onto the trail of route 2A, along which the summit is reached to the right. Descent via route 2A.

The route was climbed on March 8, 2021, by a group consisting of Vladimir Gostev (leader), Irina Nechetnyaya, and Dmitry Morozov.

The description uses photographs and consultations from: Andrey Vasilyev (Rostov-on-Don), Vladimir Gostev (Lipetsk), Irina Nechetnyaya (Moscow). The report and photographs from the first ascenders from the FAR database were also used.

The description was compiled by Dmitry Morozov, 33morozov@gmail.com