Approach Description

From the confluence of the Zaki and Zrug rivers along the dirt road that runs along the Zrug River to the ruins of the church. About 20 km. A kilometer upstream, the river splits into two tributaries:

  • Follow the right tributary eragrafically for 1.5 hours to the kosh.
  • Then, head right along the stream (eragrafically, the left side of the gorge).
  • Enter a small cirque formed by two ridges of p. Skryabina. Bivouac is possible.

From the church, it takes 4–4.5 hours.

Route Description

P. Skryabina via the North Ridge, category III difficulty.

From the bivouac, head right onto the ridge. Then, along the ridge for 250–300 m (R0–R1), category I difficulty.

After that, the ridge turns into a mountain slope with minor ascents (R1–R2), 100 m, category II difficulty.

Then:

  • through an internal corner, 40 m, category III difficulty, 55–60°;
  • a wall, 10 m, category III–IV difficulty (R2–R3), many loose rocks.

A sloping shelf to the right and a wall (R3–R4), a crux, 10 m, category V difficulty, 70–80°, loose rocks.

To the left, a wall, category III difficulty, and exit onto a large talus shelf (R4–R5), 20 m.

Then:

  • up and to the right along a crack, category IV difficulty, 70°, 10 m, to a small shoulder;
  • to the left, 10 m, onto a talus shelf (R5–R6).

Up the wall with a crack under a cornice, which is bypassed on the left (R6–R7), 8 m, category V difficulty, 85° — the crux. Above the cornice, many loose rocks.

Further on, a gentle summit ridge (R7–R8), many loose rocks.

Supplement

There are many loose rocks on the route. The group should consist of no more than 4–5 people. The route is technically more challenging than:

  • Category III on v. Gebi (Digoriya);
  • Category III on p. Artshevskogo (Tsey).

Sources

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