Report on the ascent of FARB team to the summit of Gaikomd, first ascent via the left part of the southeast wall

Russian Championship. Technical Class. February 2017

Ulan-Ude 2017

Ascent Passport

Ascent area: Caucasus, from Krestovyi pass to Shaviklde peak
Peak: Gaikomd, 3192 m, first ascent via the left part of the SE wall
Estimated category of difficulty: 5B, first ascent.
Route characteristics: rock.
Height difference: m Route length: 945 m. Wall section length: 645 m. Length of sections with V category of difficulty: 230 m. VI category of difficulty: 280 m. Average slope of the route: 64°. Slope of the wall section: 80°.
Pitons left on the route: Total: 2, including bolted pitons: 1
Total equipment used on the route (including ITO): anchors, fifi and rock pitons 69; nuts: 38; friends: 40; skyhooks: 8
Team's total climbing hours: 21 h
Team leader: Ayusheev D.V. — CMS. Participants: Baguzha A.M. — 1st sports category. Coach: Ayusheev D.V. — CMS.
Departure from base camp to the route: February 5, 2017, 05:00 Summit ascent: February 6, 2017, 18:00 Return to base camp: February 7, 2017, 13:00
Organization: Alpinism Federation of the Republic of Buryatia