Studencheskaya

Sudencheskaya (4152 m) is a solitary, inconspicuous peak located in a short southern spur of the Northern Kichik-Llaysky ridge behind the Tookomo scree pass. The ridges of the peak descend to the west and east parallel to the Northern ridge, forming rising cirques beneath it. Only pioneers have reached the summit: M. Toktobaev, R. Agileva, V. Klishevich, A. Kursky, E. Penkova, E. Pervasheva, who ascended the peak on May 1, 1962, from the Tookomo pass. 39. Studencheskaya from the north via the Western ridge couloir The route is combined, category 2A (fig. 5, 8, 46, 4Ya). Length — 400 m, time — 6–7 hours. From the "Kyrgyzata" alpine camp (group of 2-4 people):

• Cross the bridge over the Kurgan river and ascend along the road on the left slope of the Kurgan gorge.
• Having passed the juniper forest, approach the green cape — a hill in the center of the gorge.

97. Suychikty via North Buttress of the West Ridge. The route is rocky, Category 1B difficulty (fig. 5, 87, 95, 99). Length — 700 m, elevation gain — 400 m, time — 3–4 hours. The approach path from "Kirgizata" alpine camp (group of 2–12 people) to the initial bivouac at the first terminal moraine of the Beketty valley, above its fork, see route 91. From the initial bivouac, turn left and ascend the grassy slope to the left of a rocky outcrop. Above the outcrop, turn right and approach the North Buttress of Suychikty’s West Ridge via possible snowy scree. About 1 hour from the initial bivouac. From here, ascend easy broken rocks and scree on the gradually narrowing North Buttress for 300–400 meters under the West Ridge’s gendarme. Bypass the gendarme via simple rocks on the left side (belaying), and reach the West Ridge behind it. On the ridge, turn left and ascend easy broken rocks on a gentle 250–300-meter West Ridge to the summit of Suychikty. 2–2.5 hours from the start of the buttress.

Group Equipment

I. Main rope 40 m - 3 pcs. 2. Rock pitons - 10 pcs. 3. Carabiners - 10 pcs. 4. Hammers - 2 pcs. 5. Ladders - 4 pcs.

III. Peak Sur-ToO

Ascent via the south-eastern ridge, route 1A cat. difficulty (see diagram in Fig. 2). The route was traversed on October 31, 1972 by a group consisting of Inozemtsev Yu.P. (leader), Telbuh P.A., Nehaenko A.A.

Location of the summit and ascent routes

6. Ascent of Surto Peak via the South Ridge The route is rocky, Category 1B difficulty (Fig. 5, 6, 13–15). The length is 2000 m (1000 m from the pass), height gain (H) is 500 m, and the time required is 2.5–3 hours. From the Kyrgyzata Alpine Camp (no group size limit):

• Cross the Kurgan River via the bridge.
• Move up the road on the left bank of the Kurgan River.
• Go around a green hill with an arch forest. In the center of the Kurgan valley, approach a temporary bridge made of a pair of logs from the left, and cross it to the right bank of the Kurgan River (there is a swamp near the river). Continue along the trail along the slope of the peak Mazar, on the right bank of the Kurgan River, and move up the moraines until the valley turns right. Then, move up and to the left along the moraines, cross the valley, and approach the scree slopes of the Surtoo Pass, a high saddle between the peaks of Surtoo to the left (north) and Kurgan to the right (south). The journey from the Alpine Camp takes 3.5–4 hours. Ascent:
• From the moraine, ascend 1000–1200 m up the medium and fine 30–35° scree to reach the Surtoo Pass, to the left of the central gendarme. It takes about 1 hour from the valley moraine.
• On the pass, turn left and follow the heavily broken easy, местами simple rocks, alternating with scree sections and short simple walls of the gently sloping 20–25° 700–800-meter South Ridge, to reach a wide scree saddle.

Ascent Log

1. Ascent category — technical
2. Ascent area, Pamir-Alay range, Kichik-Alay ridge
3. Peak Tavriya, height 4605 m, ascent route via the western ridge
4. Proposed category difficulty 2B
5. Route characteristics: elevation gain 800 m, section length 5–6 km, average slope 40°
6. Pitons hammered: For belay:

Tsarnto

The second peak from the south of the Suychikty spur is Tsarnto, which is 4560 m high, and stands between the peaks of Chakatash to the south (across the South Charat pass) and Charat Yuzhnaya to the north, across the North Charat pass. The northeast ridge of the peak forms a small cirque with the South Charat glacier. The peak is straightforward, heavily destroyed, and lies far from basic mountaineering camps, so it has only seen a first ascent via the East (Northeast) ridge on August 12, 1990, by a group of Latvian mountaineers from the "Kirgizat" alpine camp, comprising:

• R. Laveinis,
• I. Ivulans,
• Yu. Lusis,
• K. Miller, who rated the route as 2A category difficulty.

81. Tsarnto via the East Ridge.

Approach. The approach to the slopes of p. Chaka from the overnight stay located near the large lake (the site of the base camp under the peak Bratyev Kolomtsevyh) takes 2 hours. When approaching, it is advisable to stick to the left side of the glacier descending from the peak Kirgiz-Ata. This path has:

• a more even ascent without sharp drops;
• fewer rock boulders along the way. Ascent. From the glacier, the ascent to the saddle between p. Chaka and v. Tsaritsyna occurs along a wide scree couloir, in the lower part of which there is a jumble of huge boulders. The steepness of the couloir increases with altitude gain. The upper part has fine scree, alternating with rocky outcrops. The average steepness is from 30° to 50° (in the upper part). The length of the couloir is about 300 m. At the beginning of summer, ascent on snow is possible. The ridge of the saddle has 3 gendarmes, which are bypassed on the western side or when ascending directly under the wall with an exit to the saddle (dangerous, rockfall possible). The ascent, depending on the condition of the couloir, takes about 1 hour. The ascent along the northern ridge occurs mainly along the left part. First, about 20 m along a destroyed wall to the base of two parallel chimneys. Ascent of 20 m (10 of them along the chimney) up the right chimney, protection only on inserted elements (rocks crumble). Above the chimney, using a system of figure-eight ledges, we approach the only logical ascent point - a steep inner corner (about 20 m). The ascent is of moderate difficulty, the walls of the corner are unreliable (collapse of slab-like blocks is possible). Passage is very smooth movements and loaded grip. Only inserts are used, which need to be "seated" deeply. After the inner corner, there is an exit to the ridge. Further:
• along the ledges,

Ascent Log

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area: Pamir-Alay ridge, Kychyk-Apai area
3. Peak: Chelyabinsk Worker peak (first ascent). Height 4400 m. Ascent route: from the north along the ice slope.
4. Proposed difficulty category: 2A
5. Route characteristics: height difference 1200 m from the assault bivouac, length of sections 5–6 km, average steepness 35°.
6. Number of pitons: for belaying — _, for creating ITO — _ Rock — _, ice — _, bolt — _
7. Number of travel hours: 4 h 14 min.
8. Number of overnight stays and their characteristics:

"Chelyabinsk Worker" via Uraltsev Pass along the southern wall cat. diff. Dzhura A.A. +2 Ims_ms@mail.ru Kichik-Alay ridge 5.1.4

Photo № 1: Peak "Chelyabinsk Worker" (taken on July 21, 2008 from the summit of p. Irbis 4200 m)

ascent route . . . . . invisible ascent route — descent route 5.1.4. Kichik-Alay ridge, Dzholdzhilga gorge. "CHELYABINSK WORKER" peak 4420 m via Uraltsev Pass along the southern wall, first ascent

18. Chelyabinski Rabochiy - Dzholdzhilga Pass via the Northeast ridge. The route is combined, category 2B (fig. 5, 6, 29, 30). Length - 1000 m, 11 300 m, time 3.5-4 hours. The path from the Kirgizat alp camp (group size is not limited) to the initial bivouac on the left-bank moraine of the Dzholdzhilga glacier - see route 14. From the initial bivouac, move along the moraine, then along the Dzholdzhilga glacier to the right side of the broad saddle of the Dzholdzhilga Pass. From the glacier, ascend a gentle ice-and-snow 120-150-meter slope to the right side of the Dzholdzhilga Pass. On the pass, turn right and along the ice-and-snow ridge of the saddle, approach the 1st gendarme of the Northeast ridge of Chelyabinski Rabochiy peak. Along simple rocks of the gentle Northeast ridge with a short rusty wall (belay) 100 m up to the 1st gendarme. Then, along the long, gentle, easy 300-350-meter Northeast ridge, bypassing small gendarmes on the right, approach the 2nd Big gendarme. Along simple rocks with a 40-45° ascent (pitons belay) 100-120 m up to the 2nd gendarme. From the gendarme, descend to the ice-and-snow saddle along easy, destroyed rocks of the Northeast ridge. Then, along the right side of the wide, gentle ice-and-snow (cornices) Northeast ridge, approach the Pyramid gendarme. Traverse the Pyramid gendarme 40-50 meters to the right along the ice-and-snow slope or easy, destroyed, and snow-covered rocks (belay). Then, 350-450 m along the right side of the ice-and-snow Northeast ridge and the easy, destroyed, partially snow-covered 60-80-meter rocky Northeast ridge, ascend to the Chelyabinski Rabochiy peak. From the Dzholdzhilga Pass - 3-3.5 hours.