Ascent Passport

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I. Ascent class — high-altitude 2. Ascent region — Central Pamir 3. Ascent route with indication of peaks and their heights — Peak Korzhenevskaya 7105 m via the northern part of the western wall 4. Characteristics of the ascent: height difference — 2000 m average steepness of the wall section — 70°, length of the snowy section — 1000 m 5. Number of pitons: rock — 153 ice — 1, crack-drilling — 3

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — high-altitude
2. Ascent area, ridge — Central Pamir, Academy of Sciences Ridge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route — Peak Korzhenevskaya, 7105 m, via the center of the West wall
4. Proposed difficulty category — 6
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference — 1605 m
   • height difference of the wall section — 1200 m
   • length of sections:
     • 5th category — 715 m

Ascent Log

1. Ascent class: high-altitude.
2. Ascent area, ridge: Central Pamir, Akademiya Nauk ridge.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Peak E. Korzhenevskaya, 7105 m, via the central counterfort of the 3rd wall.
4. Difficulty category: 6A.
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference: 1900 m;
   • height difference of the wall section: 1250 m;
   • length of sections:
     • 5th difficulty category — 1040 m;

Report

The team of the Central Council of DSO "Mehnat" on the ascent of Peak Korzhenevskaya 7105 m via the central counterfort of the western wall in the program of the USSR Climbing Championship. Tashkent, 1980 Peak Korzhenevskaya is located in the North-Western Pamir in the northern spur of the Academy of Sciences Range. It was discovered in 1906 by N. L. Korzhenevsky. The summit was first conquered in 1953. By the present time, many interesting routes have been laid to the summit, including the western wall. The wall was first climbed in 1975 by our team, but as further study of the wall showed, the route taken was objectively dangerous in its lower part, which was dramatically confirmed on July 28 when a massive rockfall occurred down the central couloir. This year, three teams declared their intention to climb the western wall. We chose the safest option - to ascend via the central, indistinctly expressed counterfort. Additional research was conducted on the route, a scheme was drawn up, and the pattern of rockfalls was studied, with overnight stops planned. The team believes that such wall routes should be climbed by small groups, so it was decided to proceed with six climbers. To replenish the team with young participants, additional entries were made. The team consisted of:

• Putinchev A.V. - MS, team captain
• Voronin V.T. - MS

Peak Kosmonavtov

The 5800 m summit (4th Western peak of the Fedchenko Glacier) is located in the Marx-Engels Ridge, situated between the Bivachny Glacier and the Fedchenko Glacier opposite the confluence of the Kalinin Glacier and the Bivachny Glacier. From the Bivachny Glacier side:

• The northern slopes of the summit are covered with steep scree in the lower part and are cut by steep couloirs and buttresses in the upper part.
• The western slopes face a vast inner cirque filled with a glacier, whose tongue hangs into a couloir and is visible from the Bivachny Glacier.
• The ice is steep and of an overhanging nature. Between the 5800 m summit and the next peak to the west, there is a snowy saddle in the ridge. The snow layer is thin and lies on ice. The slopes facing the Fedchenko Glacier are very steep and rocky. The western ridge of the summit consists of three rises descending to the saddle. The ridge rocks are heavily destroyed, composed of fibrous rocks. Pitons hold poorly. On the first day, the group, leaving the 3800 m camp, descended along the Bivachny Glacier via a caravan trail for 1 hour to the slopes of the summit and began ascending steep scree towards the inner cirque.

Climbing Route Description

in the Central Pamir region on peak Krasnoarmeitsev (conditional name), peak 4710 m, via the Southwest Counterfort, via route 3A category of difficulty (approximately) by the group of LGS DSO "Spartak" gathering: team leader Razumov Yu.M. — 1st sports category, Vostrova I.A. — 1st sports category, Baybara V.S. — 2nd sports category, Sayfutdinov R.L. — 2nd sports category (Osh city, "Spartak"). 1974

I. Climbing category: technically challenging. 2. Climbing region: Central Pamir. 3. Climbing route: peak (Krasnoarmeysky — conditional name), peak 4770 m via South-West buttress. 3.4 4. Characteristics of the ascent: height difference 800 m, average steepness 40°, length of difficult section 80 m + 100 m. 5. Number of pitons: rock pitons 2, ice pitons 9, no drill pitons. 6. Number of walking hours: 8–9 hours.

Ascent to the "Malysh" peak via the south-eastern ridge

The "Malysh" peak is the closest peak to the south of the Abdugagor-P pass in the "Academy of Sciences" ridge. The northern slopes of the peak descend directly to the Abdugagor-P pass. The "Malysh" peak encloses from the east the cirque formed by the peaks:

• peak 5660 m
• 5800 m
• "Malysh" peak The ascent was made from the Abdugagor-P pass. The route is snow-ice. The approximate height of the peak is 5400–5500 m.

Day 1

From the base camp, the group's route goes along the left-bank (orographically) moraine of the Abdugagor glacier to the point where the Kaskadny and Obvalov glaciers flow into it. Here, the moraine descends and has a convenient exit to the ice. Then the path goes through the tongue of the Kaskadny and Obvalov glaciers, which have merged into one, and exits to the left-bank moraine of the Abdugagor glacier, which rises steeply (1 hour). We ascend along the trail to under the icefall of the Abdugagor glacier, where there are flat areas with water (1 hour). After resting on the sites, we pass the icefall in rope teams and with crampons (40 minutes). After passing the icefall, we remove the crampons and move towards the highest point of the pass. This part of the path consists of three calm ascents of medium steepness (15–25°).

Report

on the first ascent of Pik Medvezhiy (approx. height — 4800 m) via the West Ridge. Approximate difficulty category — 3B.

Leningrad

1979 → → — group route

Route description

Map of the ascent area. The ascent on July 12, 1979, was made by a group from the Leningrad Regional Council of DOSAAF "Trud" consisting of: leader — Ivanov D.A., 2nd sports category; participants — Novikov E.D. — CMS; Li G.D. — 2nd sports category, Belyaev M.B. — 2nd sports category, Shevtsov S.E. — 2nd sports category. Pik Medvezhiy is located in the Central Pamir in the Western spur of the Akademiya Nauk range, dividing the valleys of the Medvezhiy glacier and the Abdukagor river (see orographic diagram). In the same spur are: — Pik Bastion (5626 m);

ASCENT DOCUMENT

I. Ascent classification: technical. 2. Ascent area: (in accordance with KTMVG) Caucasus, from Chipperazau Pass to Kitlod Pass. 3. Peak, its height and route: Chegem, 4461 m, via the Northwest wall of the Northeast ridge. 4. Difficulty category: 5B. 5. Route characteristics: height difference 1250 m, average slope of the wall directly 75-80 degrees, average slope of the ascent route 50-55 degrees. Length of sections: 1st category difficulty — 0 m, 2nd category difficulty — 400 m, 3rd category difficulty — 570 m, 4th category difficulty — 330 m, 5th category difficulty — 150 m, 6th category difficulty — 80 m. 6. Pitons hammered in: For belaying: - Rock: 48