48. Nakra via the Southwest Ridge (Route 2A cat. difficulty). From the “Baksan” alpine camp (group of 4–8 people) head in the direction of Donguzorunkel lakes, as described in route 44. Before reaching the second (upper) small lake, turn left off the trail, cross the Donguzorun river, and ascend via talus, then a snowy slope, to the bergschrund below the false Donguzorun pass. Having crossed the bergschrund, ascend a 120-meter snowy slope to the saddle of the Northwest Ridge of Nakra peak — the false Donguzorun pass, located on the ridge to the left of the Donguzorun pass. From the saddle, descend 80–100 m down severely fragmented easy rock (loose stones!) to the snowy slope of the Western Nakra glacier. From here, go left, bypassing talus on snow to the right, and ascend via snowy

Mukal 22. Mukal via the Eastern ridge (the route by S. Golubev, M. Galkin, M. Zeidler, A. Kuchar, P. Panyutin, N. Steynogl, V. Shteyn 1B cat. diff., 20 August 1914). From the village Verkhniy Baksan ascend along the road by the left bank of the Kyrtyk river. Having entered the Kyrtyk gorge, immediately turn left onto the trail and ascend along the first stream — the Syltransu river — through the pine forest and further across alpine meadows, after which the trail ends. From here, ascend along the talus and moraines by the river towards the Syltrangel lake. At the south-eastern (left) bank of the lake is the initial bivouac. From the village Verkhniy Baksan 4.5–5.5 hrs. From the lake, ascend along the talus, then along the glacier to the saddle between the peaks of Syltran on the left and Mukal on the right. From the saddle, turn right and ascend along the snowy slope to the large gendarme of the Eastern ridge of the Mukal summit. Bypass the gendarme along the snowy slope on the right and then along the snowy ridge-slope, then ascend along simple rocks to the summit of Mukal. From the saddle, about 1 hr. Descent follows the ascent route. Duration of the route is 2 days. “Baksanskaya dolina”, A.F. Naumov

| 1 / 2 | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | | |

2. 4.132

REPORT

on the ascent to the peak MNR south-west via the eastern edge from the Kurmy glacier (first ascent, estimated cat. diff. 4A), made by the group of the tourist center “Adyl-Su” on July 6, 1975. To the CKFA for clarification of the category of difficulty (route No. 184 according to the KTMGВ, cat. diff. 3B). Map of the ascent area.

DESCRIPTION OF THE APPROACH TO THE ROUTE

Drive along the road up the Adyl-Su gorge to the “Adyl-Su” hostel of the USSR Ministry of Defense. From the hostel, follow the trail first along steep grassy slopes, and then along the talus to climb to the VTsSPS pass. From the hostel, it takes 3–5 hours. From the pass, descend along the talus slopes to the plateau of the Kurmy glacier below the south-western peak of MNR. From the pass, it takes 30 minutes. Camp on the plateau or on the talus areas below the VTsSPS pass.

TABLE OF ROUTE CHARACTERISTICS

DESCRIPTION OF THE ASCENT TO PEAK MNR-SOUTH VIA THE EASTERN RIDGE (4B cat. diff.)

overnight stay on the Kurmy Glacier — ascend a wide scree couloir between the peaks Andyrchi and MNR-South to a standalone rocky "tooth". From it, right into an internal corner (60 meters of medium-difficulty rocks, steepness 60°), leading to the Eastern Ridge. Here, on a ledge, is the 1st control point. Further, bypassing the wall on the right, exit via easy rocks under a chimney. Then, up the right wall of the chimney, along a slab with a ledge, and несложным скалам — выход on a wide ledge (live rocks!). 40 meters from the first control point. From the ledge, left-upwards via easy rocks for 20 meters — exit under a 3-meter wall (steepness 70°). Straight up the wall — exit onto slab-like rocks leading to a saddle between a gendarme and the summit tower (40 meters). At the wall, in a crevice — 2nd control point. From here, complex climbing using artificial points of support (ladder, hook) exit left around the corner and transition to the South wall of the summit tower. Further up via complex rocks with a steepness of 70° to a small site (30 meters). From the site, straight up via steep (60°) rocks with good holds to a small ledge under an overhanging rusty wall (20 meters). The overhanging section is bypassed on the left via a wall with a slit (15 meters, 75°). Then up via an internal corner for 5 meters, traverse right, and further up to a small site (30 meters). From the site, up-right via very difficult rocks — exit onto the summit of peak MNR-South. 6–3 hours from overnight stay. Descent from the summit via route 2B cat. diff. Special equipment for 6 people: main rope 3×40 meters; expendable cordelette — 3 meters; rock hooks — 10 pieces (including 3 channel hooks); carabiners — 10 pieces; ladders — 2 pieces; rock hammers — 2 pieces.

P. MNR (South summit)

Time expenditure: 5 hours. VTSSPS-600 у-8°00' summit — 1200

в.­ МГП (163)

ROUTE SCHEME IN SYMBOLS У И А А (in MNR /DЗ/), from ridge 3 to gully, 2Б category of difficulty — July 14, 1986. Heights are determined by altimeter, steepness is measured by goniometer.

M.H.P. 3882­m.

B. MHP HOK­HAP Ascent route — Descent route