Ascent Passport

I. Ascent class — rock 2. Ascent area — Central Caucasus, Main Ridge 3. Peak, its height and ascent route — p. Olympiycev (p. 3805), 3805 m, via the left buttress of the North face. 4. Presumed difficulty category — 3B 5. Route characteristics: height difference — 300 m average steepness — 40°, length of sections: — II — 200 m — III — 100 m — IV — 40 m

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — rock
2. Ascent area — Central Caucasus, Main Ridge
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route — p. Olimpiycev, 3805 m, via the western ridge.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 2A
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference — 200 m
   • average steepness — 40 m
   • length of section I — 400 m
6. Number of travel hours — 2

НЕН­СКРА НОР­THEAST SOUTH-WEST Fig. 44. Nenskra ridge

331. Nenskra via the North Face (combined route, A. Snesareva, category 4A, fig. 32, 44). From the initial bivouac on the snowy plateau of the Nenskra Glacier under the North Face of Nenskra Peak, ascend via an avalanche couloir, then via easy and moderately difficult rocks, interspersed with snowy slopes and small walls (loose rocks), to the Upper Rock Belt. From here, via steep, heavily broken rocks of above average difficulty, ascend to the Upper Rock Island. Then, via a steep ice-snow slope with rock outcrops, ascend to the col on the ridge between the Southwest and Northeast summits of Nenskra. From the glacier plateau, 7–8 hours. From the col, turn right and ascend via easy rocks of the ridge's spur to the summit of

Ascent Log

1. Ascent category: technical.
2. Ascent area: Greater Caucasus from Chiper-Azau Pass to Kitlod Pass.
3. Ascent route with indication of peaks and their elevations: Zadnaya Nakra (3752 m) via the northern ridge from Khevai Pass.
4. Ascent characteristics: elevation gain 850 m; average slope 30°; complex section length: approx. 25 m.
5. Pitons driven: none.
6. Number of climbing hours: 5.
7. Number of nights and their characteristics: initial bivouacs at the confluence of Kvish and Khevai glaciers, comfortable. No bivouacs on the route.
8. Team name: group of climbers from "Baksan" alpine camp.
9. Surname, name, patronymic of the leader, participants, and their qualification:

First ascent of the unnamed peak (Rear Nakra) The ascent was made on July 6, 1975 by a group of instructors from the Shkhelda alpine camp:

1. ZHUKOV S.Ya. — 1st sports category (leader)
2. MAERKOVICH I.V. — 2nd sports category
3. SOLOVYOVA G.M. — Master of Sports of Russia
4. MUKHINA I.V. — 1st sports category
5. GUR'YAN Yu.A. — 1st sports category
6. ZAMYATNIN L.M. — 1st sports category The peak is located in a low spur extending from Nakra peak towards Ledesh peak and dividing the basins of the Hevai glacier and the Southern plateau of Donguz-Orun. From the base camp, located at the confluence of the Hevai and Kvish glaciers, ascend via the high right-bank moraine of the Hevai glacier to the glacier cirque (1 hr) and across the glacier plateau towards the clearly visible peak closing the cirque and composed of yellow-colored rocks.

& 150–200 × 45°–50°
& 200–250 mm
& 200–220 × 111–1 B
& 100 × 30°
& 250–300 m H–1 B
& 100–120 × 25°–35°
& 10 m H & 200 m H–1 B

51. Nakra via Right Counter-fors of the North Face (A. Zamora's route, cat.4B diff.). The path from "Baksan" alp-camp (a group of 4 people) to the initial bivouac on the grassy areas of the right-bank moraine of the Severniy Donguzrun glacier is described in route 50. From the moraine:

• cross the Severniy Donguzrun glacier
• go through the bergschrund to the rocks of the Right counter-fors of Nakra's North Face It is possible to bypass the bergschrund on the right via the rocks of the North counter-fors of the Northwest ridge and above it traverse through a snowy couloir (belay, falling rocks, ice falls!) to the rocks of the Right counter-fors of the North Face. Up the occasionally snowy rocks of medium difficulty of the counter-fors with several short walls and small gendarmes, which are bypassed on the right:
• ascent (pitons belay!) to a site in the middle of the counter-fors At the site — a bivouac. From the initial bivouac 8–10 hours.

As­cen­sion along the North­ern coun­ter­force and North­west

De­scrip­tion of Shar­ni­rog

From the ridge of the Bok­tu­zu­ruk hinge to the North, compressed between the North­ern coun­ter­forc­es of v. Ka­za­ra and 300–400 m away from them, be­hind large boul­ders, by­pass­ing the last corn­er of the na­ga­to­go. The en­trance to the boul­ders of the root and the growth are at­trib­uted to the whole Shar­ni­rog. With beds along sim­ple ris­ing ter­rain, com­pressed coun­ter­force wool up­wards. Solid­i­fi­ca­tion with hard 60 m along the spe­cif­ic corn­er with a сквоз­nym for­est, then 150–200 m along com­pressed me­dium-dif­fi­culty ter­rain to mi­nua­da­li. Above the skill com­pressed with skele­ton (along mi­nua­dale konzro­reyevom 150). Skill-ful wool, en­circled from the left. Be­hind it up­wards along com­pressed

49. Nakra via North-West Ridge (Route 2B cat. dif.). The path from the "Baksan" alp camp (group 4, 20 people) to the Donguzorun false pass col is described in routes 44 and 48. From the col, go left and 300–400 m up the heavily destroyed simple rocky North-West Ridge to a site below the first rocky ascent of Nakra peak. This part of the ridge can be bypassed on the right by descending from the col 15–20 m to the south, and traversing along the ridge to reach the first snowy ascent. Here, turn left and rise up the snowy slope to the sites on the ridge. The initial bivouac is on the sites. From the "Baksan" alp camp, 9–10 hours. From the sites (without backpacks), ascent along the heavily