1. Ascent Passport

1. Region: Yazglem Ridge (Central Pamir). Valley: Fedchenko Glacier Section number according to the 1999 classification table – 4.12
2. Peak name: Pik Revolyutsii. Route name: via the rib on the eastern edge of the northern wall.
3. Proposed – 5B category of complexity, first ascent.
4. Route type: combined
5. Route elevation gain: 1524 m (by altimeter) Route length: 3355 m.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: high-altitude
2. Ascent area, ridge: Pamir, Yazgulemsky Ridge.
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: Peak Oktyabrskoy Revolyutsii, 6974 m, via the right part of the southeast wall, from the Khabarvin-khach glacier.
4. Proposed difficulty category: 5B.
5. Route characteristics: height difference: about 2400 m, length of sections with 5–6 difficulty category: 700 m, average steepness: 45°
6. Pitons hammered: for belay — rock 12, ice 34, bolted —; for support — rock —, ice 7, bolted —.
7. Number of climbing hours: 44 hours
8. Number of bivouacs, their characteristics: 4 bivouacs on the route, all on snow and ice.

Ascent Log

I. Ascent Class - High-altitude 2. Ascent Area - Pamir, Yazgulem Range 3. Object of Ascent - Peak Revolyutsii - 6974 m, first ascent from the Khabarviv-Khats glacier via the counterfort of the South Face 4. Estimated Difficulty Category - 5B 5. Route Characteristics:

Pamir

Peak named after Oktyabrskaya Revolyutsiya (6974 m) north face (first ascent)

Team of the Sports Committee of Leningrad High-altitude category

Team composition

1. Chunovkin G.A., MS — captain, coach
2. Borzov Yu.V., MS — deputy captain
3. Balyberdin V.S., CMS — participant
4. Temirov A.M., CMS — participant
5. Nosov A.P., CMS — participant

1. Ascent Passport

1. Region: Yazgulemsky ridge (Central Pamir). Valley: Yazgulem. Section number according to the 1999 classification table – 4.12.
2. Summit name: Peak Rokzou. Route name: from Rokzou Glacier via the serac zone of the southwestern slope.
3. Proposed – category 4A, first ascent.
4. Route type: snow and ice.
5. Elevation gain: 1320 m (by altimeter). Route length: 4400 m. Length of sections:

4.12.44.54

Description of the First Ascent of Peak 6150 m

Coleencreux Kosmonavtov.

I. Geographical Information

Peak 6150 m (photo 1 and 2) is located in the southeastern part of the Fedchenko Glacier, in the Pik Ficker ridge, in the so-called "Southern group of Fedchenko mountains". The slopes of the peak give rise to tributaries of the glaciers:

• Vitkovsky
• Fedchenko To the east of Peak 6150 m lies one of the peaks of Pik Ficker.

4. Brief Characteristics of the Ascent

4.1. Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: high-altitude and technical
2. Ascent area, ridge: Central Pamir, Vysokaya Stena ridge
3. Peak: Tartu University – 350 years height 6350 m ascent route: from Lake Tanymas II via the northwest ridge
4. Proposed category of difficulty: 5A
5. Route characteristics: height difference: 850 m

Description

First Ascent of Peak 6113.5 m

Geographical Information

Peak 6113.5 m (photo 1) is located in the southeastern part of the Fedchenko Glacier, in the Vysokaya Stena range. Four glaciers originate from its slopes:

• The northern slopes give rise to the Tanymas 3 glacier;
• The western slopes feed the second (unnamed) glacier, which is a right tributary of the Fedchenko Glacier;
• On the southwest, a third (unnamed) glacier flows, which is the last right tributary of the Vitkovsky Glacier;
• To the south flows the fourth glacier, also a right tributary of the Vitkovsky Glacier.

Approaches

The group of first ascensionists approached Peak 6113.5 m on July 27, 1962, from the base camp (altitude 3900 m) located on the shore of a lake at the confluence of the Kaskadny Glacier with the Abdukagor Glacier.

PASSPORT

1. High-altitude technical climb
2. Pamir, Yazgulyam Range, Tanymas-3 glacier.
3. Peak 6113 m, center of the North face.
4. Proposed - 6B category of difficulty, first ascent.
5. Height difference 1200 m, length of the wall part of the route 1450 m. Length of sections with 5B category of difficulty - 620 m, 6B category of difficulty - 575 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route 68° (4900–6060), including 6B category of difficulty 80° (5420–5970).
6. Pitons driven: | rock | nut | bolt | ice | | :--: | :--: | :--: | :-: |

Moscow City Council Burevestnik Sports Club

Ascent of Peak Suloev via the South Face, 5816 m (first ascent)

Leader: V.M. Nadbakh-Kiedessa Participants:

• I.V. Grebenshchikov
• V.K. Nevorotin Moscow, 1969 The participants of this group are part of the team from the Central Council of the Burevestnik Sports Club, formed in the spring of 1969 to undertake high-altitude and technically challenging ascents. In the summer of 1968, as part of the 2nd complex expedition of the Moscow City Council Burevestnik Sports Club, the participants of this group ascended Peak Lenin.