From the Baksan valley through the Donguz-Orun pass we get into the Nakra valley. Along the trail, going along the left (orographically) bank of the Nakra river, we reach the confluence of the Kvish river and the Nakra river. We cross a small bridge over the Kvish river and start the ascent along the left (orographically) bank of the Kvish river to the left lateral moraine. There are sites for overnight stays in the upper part of the moraine. The journey from Terokol to these sites takes about 10 hours. From the moraine, keeping to the right side (in the direction of travel) under the slopes of p. Leyrag, we make our way to the plateau under the Kvish pass. The ascent to the Kvish pass can be challenging, depending on the time of year. In August, there is steep broken ice. The ascent to the Kvish pass is to the left of the icefall, keeping to the rocks. It is possible to ascend via the rocks, which are of medium difficulty, with piton belays. To the northeast of the Kvish pass is p. Ledesh, and directly to the south is p. Leyrag. From the Kvish pass, bypassing p. Leyrag, we make our way along the scree to the plateau. Then we make our way to the eastern ridge of p. Lakra. Having traversed the ridge for about 200 meters, we reach a saddle, from which we descend to the left onto the glacier. Along the glacier, we move to the left onto the ridge, on which there are sites for overnight stays. In the lower part of the ridge is the Tsalgmil pass. The sites are located on the pass. The journey from the overnight stay on the moraine under the Kvish pass to the Tsalgmil pass takes 7-8 hours. From the overnight stay, we descend to the southern side of p. Tsalgmil and make our way to the saddle between p. Tsalgmil and the Tsalgmil pass. Here is the first control point. After the saddle, there is a snowy ridge - one rope length. Then we make our way to a triangular rock of reddish color, of medium difficulty. After this rock, there is a wall with an internal angle and a cleft. The ascent is difficult; the internal angle is traversed at the bottom to the left, and we ascend the wall. Here, there is piton protection. After the wall, there is simple climbing and an exit to an inclined ledge. Along the ledge, we move to the right and approach the wall. The beginning of the wall - 15-20 meters - is a difficult section. After that, there is a wall of 35-40 meters, leading to a chimney with a stone plug. After the plug, it is possible to move to the right and left along rocks of medium difficulty, with an exit to the summit of the first gendarme. From the plug to the summit of the first gendarme - 2-2.5 rope lengths. Here is the second control point. After the first gendarme, we move in the direction of the second gendarme, which is bypassed on the right. The 3rd gendarme is taken head-on. Here is the third control point. From the gendarme, we descend to the right and make our way to a ledge. The ledge leads to the saddle between the third and fourth gendarmes. From the ledge, we descend via a sports descent to the saddle. From the saddle, we ascend 16 meters to the fourth gendarme, then traverse to the left in the direction of the saddle between the ice dome and the ridge. Here, the path is straightforward, but the exit to the saddle requires careful belaying. There is a place for an overnight stay. The journey from the overnight stay on the Tsalgmil pass to the ice dome takes about 14 hours. From the saddle, we begin the ascent to the ice dome on crampons. The length of the ascent is 340 m, with a slope steepness of 45 to 50°. Piton protection is necessary. Having traversed 6-7 rope lengths, we traverse the slope to the right in the direction of large rocks. From the rocks - straight up to the summit. The descent from the summit goes along a traverse ridge to the Fizkulturnik pass. See route 3-A cat. sl.
Warnings
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