9.25
Climbing Marieta's Opirogama and etc. routes via tuporame cuscefitkh.
Ascent of Chatyn-Tau via the Northern wall (Peruvian style).
Category of difficulty 5B
From "Shkelda" alpine camp the group reaches Shkelda overnight stay via the usual route. Through Loznыy Chatyn pass the group descends to the Chalaat glacier under the northern wall of Chatyn-Tau. Here they spend the night. Via large avalanche cones the group ascends through a subglacial crevice to the first rocky outcrop. The rocks are steep, smooth, and have the appearance of a narrow and high isosceles triangle. The apex of this triangle abuts the overhang of a black gendarme. To the right of the triangle is a large couloir, to the left is a narrow, icy one. The lower part of the massif consists of red, strongly dissected rocks, which are very fragile. Higher up, the rocks acquire an imbricate structure. In some places, the group moves along the edge of rocks and ice under overhanging cliffs with a small number of holds. The constant steepness of the rocks is about 60°. There are almost no ledges throughout the ascent. Under the overhang of the black gendarme, there is a small platform for an overnight stay. The gendarme's overhang reliably protects the group from rockfall throughout the route.
The path from the platform goes up to the left along the left edge of the black gendarme. Almost immediately, one has to overcome an overhang of about 100 meters. Above the overhang, the group passes an ice slope, cutting steps. This slope leads to a poorly defined rocky ridge, which abuts directly into the gendarme's overhang. Slightly to the right of the ridge, the overhang is cut by a vertical internal angle, turning into a chimney in its upper part. Further up, 40–50 meters from the base of the overhang, the chimney leads to a small terrace, on which another internal angle with a vertical crack is visible. At this point, one should ascend with careful rock protection (first rope - without backpacks). On the terrace, one should move to the left. Gradually, the terrace turns into a narrow ledge, going behind a rock outcrop, at a height of about a meter above the ice of the couloir. This ledge leads to a three-meter overhang, and then to an ice slope with rock outcrops, along which one can reach the ridge. The traverse along this ledge is the most difficult part of the entire ascent. Having reached the ridge, adjacent to the left of the black gendarme, one can organize an overnight stay on a small snow nodule.
From the overnight stay site, the ridge goes east, becoming steeper and eventually disappearing before the wall. The ascent to the dome-shaped pre-summit goes along a sharp firn, sometimes ice ridge, steeply rising upwards. Particularly unpleasant is the passage through the ice-covered rocks of the couloirs under the dome. Approaching the dome, one should traverse to the right along the edge of the ice and rocky outcrops under the eastern ridge. Continuing the traverse, the group bypasses the dome and reaches a saddle approximately on the middle line of the couloir.
Along the main ridge, the group ascends to the Eastern summit, then to the main summit, and descends to the Uzbin plateau, where they spend the night. From the Uzbin plateau, the group returns to the camp via the icefall and then along the Zheldino glacier.
In case of poor conditions on the icefall - descent and return to the camp via Becho pass.