Description of the route to Tsalichnil peak via the Southwest ridge, category 3A. The height of the peak is 3992 m.
From the Baksan valley through the Donguz-Orun pass, we enter the Nakra valley. Along the trail, running along the left (orographic) bank of the Nakra River, we reach the confluence of the Kvish and Nakra rivers. We cross the bridge over the Kvish River and start ascending along the left (orographic) bank of the Kvish to the left lateral moraine.
In the upper part of the moraine, there are areas for overnight stays. The journey from Terskol to these areas takes about 10 hours.
From the moraine, keeping to the right side (in the direction of travel), under the slopes of Leyrag peak, we make our way to the plateau below the Kvish pass. The ascent to the Kvish pass can be challenging, depending on the time of season. In August, it is steep and covered with debris. We ascend to the Kvish pass to the left of the icefall, keeping close to the rocks. It is also possible to ascend via the rocks (rocks of medium difficulty, with piton protection).
To the northeast lies the Ledesh peak, and directly to the south — the Leyrag peak.
From the Kvish pass, we descend onto the glacier: first, over snow, and then to the right, down a steep scree. Under the eastern ridge of Lakra peak, we approach the Dolnikova pass. The ascent to the pass is over snow. We descend via scree and reach a snowy plateau.
Across the plateau, we reach the Fizkulturnik pass, which is located on the southwest shoulder of Tsalchaml (Csalichnil) peak. This is a good spot for an overnight stay. The journey from the overnight stay areas below the Kvish pass to the Fizkulturnik pass takes about 8 hours.
The route along the ridge begins from the Fizkulturnik pass. The ridge is not difficult; protection is provided by natural rock features. We proceed along the ridge to the red gendarme, from where more challenging rock sections begin. The gendarme is bypassed on the right, and the ridge itself turns slightly to the left. The ascent to the summit goes via an internal corner, followed by monolithic rocks. The journey from the overnight stay to the summit takes about 7 hours.
The descent from the summit follows the ascent route. When descending via the corner, there is a 30-meter rappel.
From the Fizkulturnik pass, we descend into the Nakra valley. Then, along the trail (on the left orographic bank of the Nakra River), we ascend towards the Donguz-Orun pass. Overnight stay. The journey from the Fizkulturnik pass to the overnight stay below the pass takes 10 hours.
Then, through the Donguz-Orun pass, we return to the Baksan valley. From the overnight stay below the pass to Terskol — 5 hours.
Recommendation for climbers: the ascent can be made in any number of participants. When descending from the summit, caution is necessary. There is a risk of falling rocks dislodged by other climbers.