First Ascent Report

About the First Ascent

Yanichara Peak (2520 m) — Southwest Ridge — 3A category route (proposed), first ascent — Eastern Sayan, Tunskinskie Goltsy ridge, Kharimta valley, 6.1.2 Leader: Klepikov A.A. Participants:

• Kuzmenko I.M.
• Kolosov A.D.
• Kazantseva E.V.
• Pechenin K.V.

I. Ascent Passport

Ascent record for Zaboyshchik peak 3051 m via Central buttress of the Eastern edge, cat. 4A.

1. East Sayan, Kitoi Goltsy ridge, Ilchir gorge, section 6.1.3.
2. Zaboyshchik peak 3051 m, via Central buttress of the Eastern edge.
3. Claimed category 4A, first ascent.
4. Route type — rock climbing.
5. Height difference — 600 m, length — 1150 m, average steepness of the wall section — 60°.
6. Pitons hammered: rock and wired — 30 pcs.
7. Team's travel time — 10 hours.
8. No overnight stays on the route.
9. Group:

Ascent record for p. 3177–Zhelaniy 3199 m via the South slope, traverse 3A cat. diff.

1. Eastern Sayan, Kitoy Golets ridge, Ilchir gorge, section 6.1.3.
2. P. 3177–Zhelaniy 3199 m via the South slope, traverse.
3. Categorized as 3A cat. diff., first ascent.
4. Route type — rocky.
5. Height difference 100 m, length 482 m, average slope 20°.
6. Pitons driven: rock and wired 12 pcs.
7. Team's walking hours – 6 h.
8. No overnight stays on the route.
9. Group:

Ascent log for the summit of Glavny Topograf Mazurov, 3089 m, via the North slope.

1. Eastern Sayan, Pogranichny ridge, Charm-Taiga spur, Topografov massif, section 6.1.4.
2. Summit Glavny Topograf Mazurov, 3089 m, via the North slope.
3. Proposed category 1B, non-category.
4. Route type — combined.
5. Elevation gain — 280 m, distance — 500 m, average slope — 30°.
6. Pitons hammered: rock and chock stones 2 pcs.
7. Team's travel time — 5 hours.

Ascent Passport

1. Region — Ergaki Ridge, Western Sayan. 6.2
2. Summit — Zvezdny Peak (V) 2190 m via South Ridge
3. Proposed — Category 3A difficulty, first ascent
4. Route type — Rock climbing
5. Route characteristics: Elevation gain approximately 300 m, length approximately 1000 m
6. Equipment used on the route: 19 protection pieces
7. Total climbing hours — 5
8. Overnight stays — none

Passport

1. Rock climbing route.
2. Western Sayan, Ergaki ridge.
3. Pik Vostochny Zvezdny, 2100 m. West wall.
4. Proposed — 4A cat. dif., first ascent.
5. Height difference: 250 m. length of sections with 4–5 cat. dif.: 50 m, average steepness of the route: 40°.
6. Pitons hammered in: rock pitons: 4, chocks: 31.
7. Total climbing hours: 15, days: 1.

TITLE PAGE Mt. Oreshek 1850 m, via East Ridge, cat. 1B diff. 6.2. Irkutsk. 2014. Climbing passport for Mt. Oreshek 1850 m via East Ridge, cat. 1B.

1. Western Sayan, Ergaki Ridge, Nizhnyaya Buiba gorge, section 6.2.
2. Mt. Oreshek (1850 m) via East Ridge.
3. Proposed winter route, first ascent, cat. 1B.
4. Route type: rock climbing.
5. Elevation gain 100 m, route length 500 m, average slope 10°.
6. Pitons used: 3 rock and chock pitons, 2 bolt pitons used for descent.
7. Team's total climbing time: 6 hours.

REPORT

ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO THE SUMMIT "SPYASHCHIY SAYAN" VIA THE ROUTE "PO Z. STENE CHEREZ RUKI" (WESTERN WALL VIA "RUKI") OF 2B CATEGORY OF COMPLEXITY BY THE TEAM OF THE 5TH TRAINING CENTER FOR MILITARY-SPORTS TRAINING ON OCTOBER 10, 2023.

I. Ascent Passport

№№ p.p.	1. General Information
1.1	Full Name, Sports Rank of the Leader	Shirnin Viktor Vladimirovich, 2nd sports rank
1.2	Full Name, Sports Rank of the Participants	Kraytor Sergey Grigorievich, Candidate Master of Sports, Popov Danil Anatolievich, 2nd sports rank
1.3	Full Name of the Coach	Kraytor Sergey Grigorievich
1.4	Organization	5th Training Center for Military-Sports Training
	2. Characteristics of the Ascent Object

Route Description

The most convenient approach to the start of the route is via the Mametova Pass with a descent to the Byrdjiga Glacier. Here, on the moraine, the initial bivouac is set up. The exit to the route is in the lower part of the Byrdjiga Glacier. A long couloir, from the base of which the sharp peaks of the Aristov Peak are visible. Along a wide couloir that narrows sharply at the upper part, approach the so-called "gates" R1. Then straight up the walls, 1015 m with good ledges for belay stations, ascend to the eastern ridge under the summit tower. The summit tower is 2 steep walls up to 80° with small inclined ledges at the top. Then exit to the summit. Descent from the summit tower along the eastern wall on a rope (twice 40 m):

• First descent to an intermediate platform
• Second descent to the base of the tower From here, descend along the couloir with scree to the Byrdjiga Glacier to the initial bivouac. The ascent takes 8–9 hours.

Recommendations

1. Number of participants — 4–6 people.

North Caucasian Federal District and Southern Federal District Alpine Climbing Championship, Altitude-Technical Category

Report

On the ascent to the summit of Dzhailyk via the left part of the 3rd wall of the southern ridge shoulder (Li route) Category 5B complexity by the team from Rostov Oblast from July 24 to July 25, 2024

I. Ascent Passport

	1. General Information
1.1	Full Name, Sports Rank of the Leader	Kravchenko Inna Anatolyevna, CMS
1.2	Full Name, Sports Rank of Participants	Shchekinova Tatyana Viktorovna, CMS
1.3	Full Name of Coach	Vasilyev Andrey Sergeyevich