Championship of the Southern and North Caucasian Federal Districts, high-altitude technical class Team of Stavropol Krai — 2

Report

on the ascent to the summit Shokoladny peak via the southwest wall, 5B, rock climbing. Despье Route Stavropol, 2024

Ascent Passport

1. Western Caucasus, Uzunkol, Myrd gorge, route 2.3.132.
2. Summit: Shokoladny peak (3650), via the southwest wall (Despье, 1975)

Rock climbing Classification Commission Alpinism Federation of Russia

Report

on the first ascent of the route to Shokoladny Peak (3650 m) via the "mirrors" of the Southwest wall (proposed 6A category), made by the team of Poltava Regional Federation of Alpinism and Rock Climbing Leader: Pugachev S.A., Master of Sports, instructor-methodologist category II Coach: Zagirnyak M.V., Honored Trainer of Ukraine, Master of Sports

Report

on the ascent route to Shokoladny peak (3650 m) via the "mirrors" of the Southwest wall (6A cat. difficulty), made by the team of .......... alpinism federation Leader: ANDREEV A.B., CMS. Coach: DMIITRIENKO E. 2020

Ascent Passport

1. Russia, Caucasus.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class: technical
2. Ascent area: Caucasus, Gvandra district, Kichkinekol gorge
3. Peak, its height, ascent route: S. Dolomit, 3710 m, via the Western ridge
4. Proposed difficulty category: approximately 3B cat. diff.
5. Route characteristics:
   • Height difference: 700 m
   • Average steepness: 35°
   • Length of section with 3B cat. diff.: 250 m
6. Pitons driven:

Report

On the first ascent to the summit 3090 (local name – «peak Osman's Kasaev») via the north-eastern ridge from the Southern Panoramic Pass, category 2A complexity, by the AUSB Uzunkol team from Stavropol on August 16, 2023.

I. Ascent Passport

REPORT

ON THE FIRST ASCENT TO PANORAMNY (PANORAMA) PEAK VIA THE SOUTHEAST RIDGE, CATEGORY 3B DIFFICULTY, BY THE AUSB UZUNKOL TEAM FROM STAVROPOL August 16, 2023

I. Ascent Passport

42. Adyr­su via the North­ern counterfort of the West­ern edge (combined route by Yu. Kuz­netsov, 3B cat. diff., fig. 5, 6). The path from the “Ullu­tau” al­plager (group of 4–8 people) to the upper pla­teau of the Se­ver­ny Adyr­su gla­cier with the initial bi­vouac on the left-bank mo­re­ne of the Se­ver­ny Adyr­su gla­cier is de­scri­bed in route 43. In the upper part of the cir­que, cross the Se­ver­ny Adyr­su gla­cier (clo­sed cre­vasses) and ap­proach un­der the slope of the ice-and-snow cou­loir on the left side — at the base of the North­ern counterfort of the West­ern edge of Adyr­su peak. From the initial bi­vouac, 1.5–2 hours. From the gla­cier, after pas­sing the berg­schrund:

• 40 m up steep easy rocks on the right side of the ice-and-snow cou­loir,
• then tra­verse 40 m up — left through this cou­loir,

185. Asmashi Peak via the West Ridge (combined route, Tomasheka, Cat. 3B, Fig. 24, 27). From the Asmashi Pass (170 m) turn right and ascend a steep snow-and-ice slope with rock outcrops on the right side of the North Buttress (cornices, protection) of Asmashi's West Ridge onto the shoulder of the West Ridge. On the shoulder, turn left and follow a gently sloping, simple, long, in places narrow snow-covered (cornices) rocky West Ridge («live» rocks, protection); surmount the I and II gendarmes on steep moderately difficult rocks («live» rocks, pitons) and ascend a snow-and-ice slope to the summit of Asmashi. 6–7 hr from the Asmashi Pass.

Passport

1. Climbing category — technical.
2. Climbing area — Central Caucasus, North-West spur from the Bodorku peak of the Main Caucasian Range.
3. Peak, route: Peak 3820 m (Peak Acad. I.P. Bardin) via N-W wall.
4. Expected category: 4A–4B, first ascent.
5. Height difference: 1425 m
   • including 445 m of actual wall section
   • total route length — 1615 m
   • wall section length — 511 m
   • of which: 3 — 105 m

Jailyk via the East Ridge (I. Yukhin's route, cat. 4A)

The path from the Adylsu alpine camp (group of 4–8 people) through the Tyutyusu gorge to the initial bivouac at the upper part of the left-bank moraine of the Tyutyusu glacier is described in routes 184 and 188. From the initial bivouac on the moraine:

• Turn left and exit onto the snowy West counterfort descending from the East Ridge of Jailyk peak into the Tyutyusu gorge.
• Ascend the snowy, gently sloping ridge of the counterfort with several steep rises.
• Then move to the snow-ice slope (avalanches!) and continue ascending to the East Ridge of Jailyk peak. On the East Ridge:
• Turn right here.
• Move along simple and moderately difficult rocks, partly along a narrow snowy ridge (snowcornices!), and reach the base of the rocky ascent of the East gendarme.
• Overcome the gendarme directly via steep, crumbling, moderately difficult rocks of the ridge.