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Route Description: В кф.
Description of the ascent route to the summit of Salgi (3961 m) via the eastern counterforce, complexity category 2A, located in the Eastern Caucasus in the Shavana ridge.
Ascent Certificate
- Ascent category — Rock climbing
- Ascent area — Eastern Caucasus, Shavana ridge
- Peak, its height, route — Salgi peak, 3961 m, via the Eastern counterfort.
- Route description: a) height difference — 700 m. b) route length — 1100 m. c) average steepness of the route — 50–55°
- Pitons hammered for belay (I.T.O.):
- rock pitons — 8
Route Description: С кф.
A description of the route to Stolovaya mountain from the north, including details on the approach, key obstacles, and recommendations for gear and tactics.
Description
The "Stolовая" mountain from the North The route starts on the bridge over the Terek River between the villages of Balta and Chmi, at the mouth of the Vagai-choch (bear's) gorge. The bridge is controlled by an Interior Ministry checkpoint, where there is also a parking area. Passing through the checkpoint is free, but you need to have your identity documents (passport) with you. From the checkpoint, follow the road east, leaving the "Kavdolomit" quarry to your right, without turning anywhere. Where the road ends, a trail begins, sometimes indistinct, along the bottom of the gorge, passing through the bed of a temporary water flow. The path is obstructed by:
- fallen trees,
- stone blockages,
- bushes. The ravines are quite challenging. Over time, the gorge turns into a narrow canyon with smooth, sheer walls, and further on, the canyon widens again, with the slopes becoming gentler on the northern side. You should continue until you reach a point where the trail branches off to the left, up the slope. From the checkpoint, it takes 3–3.5 hours. At this point, there is a fairly grassy, steep slope rising to the ridge, bounded on the east by rocks, along which the ascent to the ridge is made. The ascent from the valley floor to the ridge takes approximately 1 hour. Follow the ridge east; there is a trail. Over time, the ridge turns to the right, transitioning into a steep, grassy slope with rock outcrops. You should follow the trail, trying to maintain a southerly direction along the gentlest part of the slope. Just below the "table" top, there is the route's "key" — a rocky belt, representing:
Route Description: С кф.
Description of the route to the top of Stolovaya from the north through the Vagai-choch gorge, including the approach, ascent along the ridge, and overcoming the rock belt.
Description
The table "from the north" The route starts on the bridge over the Terek River between the villages of Balta and Chmi, at the mouth of the Vagai-choch (bear) gorge. The bridge is controlled by an MIA (Ministry of Internal Affairs) checkpoint, where there is also a parking area where you can leave your vehicle. Passing through the checkpoint is free, but you need to have your identity documents (passport) with you. From the checkpoint, follow the road east, leaving the "Kavdolomit" quarry to your right, without turning anywhere. Where the road ends, a trail begins, sometimes indistinct, along the bottom of the gorge, passing through the bed of a temporary water flow. The path is obstructed by:
- fallen trees,
- stone blockages,
- bushes. The ravines are quite challenging. Over time, the gorge turns into a narrow canyon with smooth, sheer walls, and further on, the canyon widens again, with the slopes on the northern side becoming gentler. You should follow the trail until you reach a point where a branch trail leads off to the left, up the slope. From the checkpoint, this takes 3–3.5 hours. At this point, there is a fairly steep, grassy slope rising to the ridge, bounded on the east by rocks, along which the ascent to the ridge is made. The ascent from the valley floor to the ridge takes about 1 hour. Follow the ridge east; there is a trail. Over time, the ridge turns to the right, transitioning into a steep, grassy slope with rock outcrops. You should follow the trail, trying to maintain a southerly direction along the gentlest part of the slope. Just below the "table" top, there is a "key" to the route - a rocky belt, which is:
Route Description: с юга по 3 гребню
Description of the ascent route to the summit Girech Glavnaya (3171.7 m) via the left gully of the South face and the West ridge, category of difficulty 1B, Eastern Caucasus.
Climbing Passport
I. Climbing category — rock climbing. II. Climbing region — Eastern Caucasus, Rocky Ridge, watershed of the Armkhi–Assa rivers. Chechen-Ingush ASSR. III. Peak, its height, climbing route — Girech Glavnaya, 3171.7 m, via the left couloir of the South face and the West ridge. IV. Route characteristics: a) height difference on the route — 920 m b) route length — 2970 m c) average steepness of the route — 35° V. Pitons hammered for belaying (for creating ITO): rock — 4 pcs., ice — none, bolt — none
Route Description: с юга по 3 гребню
Description of the ascent route to the summit of Girech Glavnaya (3171.7 m) via the right couloir of the southern wall and the western ridge, category of difficulty 2A.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent class — rock
- Ascent area — Eastern Caucasus, Skalisty Range, Armkhi - Assa rivers watershed, Chechen-Ingush ASSR.
- Peak, its height, ascent route — Girech Glavnaya (3171.7 m), via the right couloir of the S wall and W ridge
- Route characteristics: a) height difference on the route — 920 m on the wall; b) route length — 1540 m; c) average steepness of the route — 37°
- Pitons hammered for belay/for creating belay anchors:
- rock — 3
Route Description: С гребню
Ascent to Peak 3781m in the Shavana ridge, Eastern Caucasus, via a snow and ice route, category 3A.
ASCENT DOCUMENT
- Ascent category — rock climbing
- Ascent area — East Caucasus, Shanavan ridge
- Peak, its height, route — p. 3781 m (CHIRA), via North ridge
- Route characteristics: a) height difference — 1700 m; b) route length — 2600 m; c) average steepness of the route — 45°
- Pitons hammered for belaying (I.T.O.): rock — 12
Route Description: ЮЗ ребру, траверс
Description of the traverse of Leonidze and Japaridze peaks in the Chauhi massif, difficulty category 4A, a technically challenging route with an altitude difference of 350 m.
- Climbing category — technically challenging.
- Area 2.9 (from the Perevalny Krepost to the village of Pan); Chauhi mountain range.
- Traverse of peaks Leonidze (3773 m) — Japaridze (3733 m) with ascent via the South-West edge of peak Leonidze.
- Proposed difficulty category — 4A.
- Route characteristics: height difference — 350 m; average steepness of the edge on ascent — 60°; length of sections with 5th cat. diff. totals — 60 m.
- Only rock pitons were used during the ascent along the edge. A total of 34 pitons were hammered in. 3 of them were used to create artificial footholds (ladders).
- To complete the route from the base camp near three stones and back, 13.5 hours were spent in good weather conditions. Of these:
- approach to the route — 2.5 hours;
- ascent along the D-3 edge of peak Leonidze — 6 hours;
Route Description: 3 гребню через Бичуга
Description of the route to Peak 4040 via the western ridge through Peak 3809, category of difficulty 2B, completed by a group of climbers led by Mikhail Timoshin in 1981.
- Ascent class: Comb. 27
- Ascent region: №2–9 (East Caucasus)
- Summit, height, ascent route: peak 4040 (S. Gadzhieva, 3912 m) via the western ridge through peak 3800 (Bichuga)
- Estimated difficulty category: 2B
- Route characteristics: Height difference 1100 m, length of section I difficulty category – 1360 m, IV difficulty category – 40 m
- Rock hooks hammered: 4 Protrusions used: 3
- Number of walking hours: 2
- Number of overnight stays: No overnight stays
- Leader and participants:
Route Description: СВ гребню
Description of the ascent route to the summit of Doltag (4127 m) via the North-Eastern ridge, difficulty category 2B, in the Eastern Caucasus.
Ascent Passport
- Ascent class — rock climb
- Ascent area according to KTMGV (Mountaineering and Trekking Classification of Mountain Routes) Eastern Caucasus
- Peak, its height, and ascent route Dyultydag 4127 m via the northeast ridge
- Proposed category of difficulty 2B cat. diff. ≈ 15 / 1–80
- Route characteristics: elevation gain 280 m, average steepness 45°, length of sections I — 150 m; II — 8 m; III — 180 m; IV — 50 m; V — 150 m; VI — 5 m; VII — 20 m.
Route Description: траверс
Traversing Sulakhat summit from north to south is a Category IIA route, taking 8-9 hours, requiring specialized equipment.
2. Traverse of Sulakhat summit from north to south — 2A cat. diff. (see Fig. 7)
From the northern summit, left and down into the pass. Then along the ridge (insurance through ledges!) to the control cairn. From the cairn, descend to the right along the crevice to a shelf and along it (piton insurance!) to the next ridge saddle. Then along the ridge to a 30-meter wall. Descend along it to the ridge. From the ridge, descend to the right to a shelf and then along the ridge to the base of the South summit. Ascent to the South summit along the ridge. Descent from the South summit to the right along a gully (insurance!) to a shelf and along it to exit to a narrow snow patch in a couloir. Then along the couloir (insurance!) to a large snowfield and down it. Then exit left along grassy slopes and scree to a trail and along it to the bivouac. The route from bivouac to traverse and back to bivouac takes 8–9 hours.
Recommendations for climbers
- Number of participants in a group — no more than 8 people.
- Initial bivouac — lower Sulakhatskaya nochevka.
- Departure time from bivouac — no later than 5:00.
- Special equipment for a group of 4 people: a) main rope — 2×30 m; b) expendable cordelette — 2–3 m; c) rock pitons — 4; d) ice pitons — 3 (in the second half of summer); e) rock hammers — 2; f) carabiners — 8; g) crampons 4 pairs (in the second half of summer).
- Possible bivouac locations on the North, Central summits and under the South summit.