Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — combined
2. Ascent area — Pamir, Muzkolsky Ridge
3. Peaks: 5860–5980 along the E ridge
4. Proposed category of complexity — 5A, first ascent
5. Height difference — 885 m Of which:

• along the E ridge to the saddle — 545 m
• along the S ridge of p. 5860 — 110 m
• along the N ridge to p. 5980 — 230 m

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Climbing Route Description

To Peak "5600" 5692 m, via the East Ridge, 26 km trail (approximately) The first ascent was made by a team of the Armed Forces led by V. Nikonov on August 16, 1976. Team members:

• Nikonov V.V. — 1st sports category, leader
• Bondarenko B.E. — 1st sports category, participant
• Gorban A.I. — 1st sports category, participant
• Baev A.K. — Candidate for Master of Sports, participant
• Gaas A.V. — Master of Sports, coach

1. Expedition Team Composition

The team was assembled based on the principle of personal selection, with preferential right to participate in the expedition given to high-altitude climbers who took part in events organized by the All-Union Central Council of Trade Unions (AUCCTU) in the Pamir region in 1952-1953 and demonstrated good performance, as well as capable young climbers. The total number of team members was set at 25 people, including:

• 21 climbers
• 4 support staff The expedition team included:

1. Kazakova E.A. — expedition leader, Honored Master of Sports, member of the "Nauka" Sports Society, research fellow at the Research Institute, Moscow.
2. Ugarov A.S. — leader of the assault group, Master of Sports, member of the "Khimik" Sports Society, chief technologist at a factory, Leningrad.
3. Ivanov E.A. — Honored Master of Sports, member of the "Torpedo" Sports Society, employee of the Central Council of the "Torpedo" Sports Society, Moscow.
4. Ivanov A.I. — Master of Sports, member of the "Nauka" Sports Society, institute lecturer, Moscow.

PASSPORT

I. Altitude-technical class 2. Pamir, Yazgulemsky Ridge 3. Peak 5864 (Chiringyad) via the West face 4. Proposed category: 6B, first ascent 5. Route characteristics: Elevation gain — 1864 m Distance — 2695 m Sections of 5–6 category difficulty — 110 m Average steepness of the main route section (4300–5864) — 67°

Ascent Log

1. Western Pamir, Yazgulyam Range
2. Peak 4723 m, via the eastern slope (first ascent)
3. Proposed category — 2A cat. dif., first ascent.
4. Route type: snow and ice.
5. Route elevation gain — 170 m (by altimeter). Route length — 260 m. Average steepness:
   • main part of the route — 50°.
   • entire route — 35–40°.

Ascent Passport

1. Class — High-altitude technical
2. South-West Pamir, North Shugnan Range, Nematzdara valley
3. Vodzh peak, 5434 m, via the North face through Marsh Mira pass
4. Proposed category of complexity — 5A cat. diff., snow-ice
5. Height difference: 780 m, length 1170 m, length of 5th category sections — 410 m, average steepness of main sections — 51° (5170–5410) 49° (4694–5080)
6. Pitons driven: protection and ITO rock —

Ascent Passport

1. Climbing category: technical
2. Climbing area (according to KTMGV): South-West Pamir, Shugnan Range.
3. Peak, its height, and ascent route: p. Mayronis, 5155 m via the South-West ridge.
4. Proposed difficulty category: 4B cat. diff., IV.
5. Route characteristics: height difference — 955 m; average steepness 55°; length of sections: I — 300 m, II — 200 m, III — 100 m, IV — 80 m, V — 100 m.
6. Number of pitons hammered for belaying: rock — 17; ice — none; bolt — none; for creating ITO — none.
7. Number of travel hours: 14 h.
8. Number of nights and their characteristics: one night at an altitude of 4200 m.
9. Team coach: MS Dainius Makauskas.

1. Climbing category: technical.
2. Climbing area: South-Western Pamir; ridge: North-Shugnan.
3. Peak: 40 years of Chelyabinsk Polytechnic Institute named after Lenin Komsomol; height: 5070 m; ascent route: along the northern ridge.
4. Route characteristics: height difference — 380 m, length of sections 2nd cat. diff. — 570 m, 3rd cat. diff. — 105 m, 4th cat. diff. — 35 m, average steepness — 35°.
5. Estimated difficulty category of the route: 3A, 25 combined.
6. Pitons driven:

4.13.136

SOUTHWESTERN PAMIR NORTH SHUGNAN RANGE Peak 40 let Chelyabinskogo politekhnicheskogo instituta im. Leninskogo komsomola (5070) First ascent route, category 3B, via the N wall, ice and snow. KARPENKOV M.V., SITCHIKHIN YU.V., SMIRNOV M.G., VAKHITOV T.K. August 16, 1983 450 m, 45°, III, 220/II, 160/16, 28 rope ladders 6 hours

Report

On the ascent to the summit of Elbrus Eastern 5621 m.

from the east through the Achkeryakolsky lava flow Presumably 2A category of complexity Leader: Gavrilov Ilya Vladimirovich 2010 Addresses: 357500, Stavropol Territory, Pyatigorsk, Ogorodnaya st., 37-3, apt. 26 Gavrilov Ilya Vladimirovich, tel. +7-928-829-10-41, djilisutours@rambler.ru 357600, Stavropol Territory, Essentuki, Ordzhonikidze st., 84-3, apt. 43 Mashin Roman Ivanovich, tel. +7-928-285-57-46, romashin79@mail.ru 357700, Stavropol Territory, Kislovodsk, Olkhovskaya st., 14, apt. 1 Ovcharenko Danila Sergeevich, tel. +7-928-008-03-01, ovcharenko911@mail.ru