Ascent Log

1. Ascent type — rock climbing
2. Ascent area — Central Tien Shan, Western Kokshaal-Tau range
3. Peak — 4758 m (Pik Pozharnikh Geroyev Chernobylia via the north edge)
4. Proposed — 4B category of difficulty, first ascent
5. Elevation gain — 858 m Section lengths:

• 3rd category of difficulty — 280 m
• 4th category of difficulty — 355 m Average slope:

Ascending Peak Maly Tourist via the Northwest Ridge (Category 3B)

We leave the base camp, located on a sandbar in front of the tongues of Gl. Researchers and Chon-Turasu, at 10:30. Moving along the sandbar alongside a stream running near the tents, we approach the tongue of Gl. Chon-Turasu and begin to bypass it from the left (north) along the same stream. To our left are:

• heaps of enormous old moraines
• moraines lying on dead ice The stream disappears into the stones, and we come to a depression located between the scree slopes of the ridge between Pik Skalisty and Pik Maly Tourist to the north and the modern terminal and lateral moraines of Gl. Researchers to the south (old lateral moraines are absent). A large stream with clear water flows along the flat bottom of the hollow. The stream is not deep, and we cross it several times via stones. Soon the stream turns right, while we continue moving along the hollow. At 12:30, we ascend to a rampart (its upper part is covered with calcite boulders) blocking the hollow and enter a flat and almost horizontal gravel area about 150 m long and 30–50 m wide. After climbing the next rampart (from here, it's easy to ascend to the glacier's surface), we enter a second almost horizontal area. The area stretches for 400–500 m and ends under a powerful monolithic buttress descending from the ridge's bend before Pik Maly Tourist. The lower part of the area is silted, with a small lake. The lake is fed by:
• one large stream,
• several small streams from the slope of Pik Skalisty. The buttress descending from the ridge's bend cuts into the glacier (as do several other buttresses located higher along the glacier) and deflects it to the south. At the same time, it "dumps" the glacier's lateral moraine closer to its middle. This explains the formation of such large depressions and the absence of a lateral moraine on the glacier.

Description of the ascent to the summit of Aelita via the Central Couloir from the wall. Route category 4, combined.

From the base camp located in the Chon-Uryukty valley below Assol peak, move in the direction of the Western Cirque glacier. Following the path on the left (orographic) side of the stream, then along the left (in the direction of travel) moraine bank, overcoming 2 of its ridges, exit into the Western Cirque. Here is a suitable place for an overnight stay, with water (a small lake) and convenient platforms. From the base camp I - 5–2 hours. From the overnight stay location, move towards Aelita peak, bypassing the 3rd moraine ridge from the left in the direction of travel, and exit onto the glacier. Move across the glacier towards the snow bridge over the bergschrund, located directly under the "heel" of Aelita's Central Couloir, to a steep snow slope (in the second half of summer, ice may be exposed on the slope). This is the starting point of the route. From the overnight stay location: I, 5–2 hours. Up the steep snow slope at 30–35° (section 0–1), in teams, exit under the bergschrund, which is overcome via a snow bridge (section 1–2), and then directly under the "shoe" rocks (section 2–3). Movement is alternating, with ice axe belay; for the first person in the team, crampons are recommended due to potential ice exposure on section 2–3. For organizing a rappel, it is recommended to use the "shoe" rocks if the snow condition does not allow for a reliable anchor using an ice axe.

and exit under an overhanging chimney (20 m). There is a small platform for belay under the chimney. The chimney is overcome “head-on” (section 6–7), ladders are used if necessary. Further movement goes along a steep crack, going up to the right (section 7–8). Climbing is difficult, rocks are badly destroyed in some places, belay is mainly with the help of stoppers. Having passed 90–100 m, we go up to the left onto the slabs (section 8–9). Climbing is very difficult and is hampered by the lack of cracks for pitons and places for stoppers. (Petal pitons are required in this area) Further -

• traverse of the right couloir /section 9–10/, in its upper part,
• movement along steep slabs with a small number of holds /section 10–11/,
• exit to the ridge of Konfirs. Along the steep destroyed rocks of the ridge, movement is in the direction of the pass, located to the left of v. Aelita /section 11–12/. Movement is simultaneous, belay through ledges. Further to the right - up - exit to the summit along simple rocks. There is a control cairn here. When exiting to the summit (section 12–13), caution should be observed, because the area is characterized by a large number of “live” stones, lightly grasped by ice. Descent along the ridge in the direction of v. Sadko (section 13–14). Not reaching 100 m to the strongest lowering in the ridge, descent to the side of the Zapadnogo Cirque glacier (4 sports category) (section 14–15). The bergschrund is overcome by jumping (section 15–16). Movement on the glacier is in roped teams, because the glacier is heavily crevassed in this part.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent class — combined
2. Ascent area — Tian Shan, Kungey Alatau ridge
3. Peak — CHERNOMOR, height — 4000 m, route — traverse of 3 peaks with ascent to Chernomor peak via Eastern counterfort, combined.
4. Estimated difficulty category — 4B
5. Route characteristics:
   • height difference — 450 m
   • average steepness — 30°
   • sections of 5th diff. cat. — 65 m
6. Pitons hammered in:

Ascent Passport

1. Tian-Shan, Tengri-Tag ridge, 7.9.1
2. Gorkogo (NE), 6010 m, center of NW wall
3. Proposed 6B category of complexity, first ascent
4. Route type: combined
5. Route height difference: 1510 m Route length: 2030 m Length of sections: V category of complexity — 830 m, VI category of complexity — 400 m Average steepness: main part of the route (4500 m–5900 m) — 60° total route (4500 m–6010 m) — 58°

Passport

1. High-altitude class
2. Central Tian-Shan, South Inylchek Glacier
3. Peak Khan-Tengri via the southwest slope (Pogrebetsky route)
4. Category 5B difficulty
5. Elevation gain — 1095 m, length — 1700 m (main part of the route). Total elevation gain — 2595 m. Length of category 5 sections — 590 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route 45°, category 5 sections — 55°–60° (6700–6850 m). Pitons used: Rock — 52, bolt — 0, chocks — 16, ice — 5.
6. Team's travel hours: 18, days — 3.

Passport

1. Altitude class
2. Tian-Shan, North Inylchek Glacier
3. Peak Khan-Tengri, via North Ridge
4. 55 km
5. Elevation gain — 2995 m, distance — 5560 m. Length of sections 5 km – 660 m. Average steepness of the route — 33°. Excluding the snow plateau (5900–6000 m) and the summit dome (6920–6995 m) — 50°.
6. Pitons hammered: | rock | nuts | ice screws | | :--: | :---: | :------: |

Passport

1. Ice and snow class
2. Tian-Shan, Terskey Alatoo, Jetyoguz valley
3. p. Baitor, 4700 m, right part of the North face
4. Proposed – 5B–6B category of difficulty, first ascent
5. Height difference: 1050 m, route length – 1510 m, face – 1360 m, length of V–VI category sections – 1000 m, including 6 category – 70 m
6. Average steepness of the main part of the route – 54°
7. Pitons: rock – 17, ice – 247.
8. Climbing hours – 13.5

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent type: winter
2. Ascent area: Central Caucasus, Main Caucasian Range, Adyr-Su gorge
3. Peak, route: Ullu-Tau /Main/ via NNW wall / V. Li route /
4. Difficulty category: 5B
5. Height difference:
   • wall section: 810 m
   • total route length: 1583 m
   • wall section length: 983 m