and exit under an overhanging chimney (20 m). There is a small platform for belay under the chimney. The chimney is overcome “head-on” (section 6–7), ladders are used if necessary.
Further movement goes along a steep crack, going up to the right (section 7–8). Climbing is difficult, rocks are badly destroyed in some places, belay is mainly with the help of stoppers.
Having passed 90–100 m, we go up to the left onto the slabs (section 8–9). Climbing is very difficult and is hampered by the lack of cracks for pitons and places for stoppers. (Petal pitons are required in this area)
Further -
- traverse of the right couloir /section 9–10/, in its upper part,
- movement along steep slabs with a small number of holds /section 10–11/,
- exit to the ridge of Konfirs.
Along the steep destroyed rocks of the ridge, movement is in the direction of the pass, located to the left of v. Aelita /section 11–12/. Movement is simultaneous, belay through ledges.
Further to the right - up - exit to the summit along simple rocks. There is a control cairn here. When exiting to the summit (section 12–13), caution should be observed, because the area is characterized by a large number of “live” stones, lightly grasped by ice.
Descent along the ridge in the direction of v. Sadko (section 13–14). Not reaching 100 m to the strongest lowering in the ridge, descent to the side of the Zapadnogo Cirque glacier (4 sports category) (section 14–15). The bergschrund is overcome by jumping (section 15–16). Movement on the glacier is in roped teams, because the glacier is heavily crevassed in this part.
From the ridge, descent is possible towards Lake Issyk-Kul with further return to the base camp through the Chon-Uryukty pass.
The ascent takes two days.
Number of participants: 4-6.
Special equipment for a group of 4 people:
- tent - 1
- main rope - 2 x 40 m
- rock pitons - 10-15 pcs.
- stoppers - 10 pcs.
- ice axes - 2 pcs.
- rock hammers - 2 pcs.
- crampons - 1 pair
- ladders - 2 pcs.
Possible overnight stay on the route is on the section R9–R10.