Description of the ascent to the summit of Aelita via the Central Couloir from the wall. Route category 4, combined.

From the base camp located in the Chon-Uryukty valley below Assol peak, move in the direction of the Western Cirque glacier. Following the path on the left (orographic) side of the stream, then along the left (in the direction of travel) moraine bank, overcoming 2 of its ridges, exit into the Western Cirque.

Here is a suitable place for an overnight stay, with water (a small lake) and convenient platforms.

From the base camp I - 5–2 hours.

From the overnight stay location, move towards Aelita peak, bypassing the 3rd moraine ridge from the left in the direction of travel, and exit onto the glacier.

Move across the glacier towards the snow bridge over the bergschrund, located directly under the "heel" of Aelita's Central Couloir, to a steep snow slope (in the second half of summer, ice may be exposed on the slope).

This is the starting point of the route.

From the overnight stay location: I, 5–2 hours.

Up the steep snow slope at 30–35° (section 0–1), in teams, exit under the bergschrund, which is overcome via a snow bridge (section 1–2), and then directly under the "shoe" rocks (section 2–3). Movement is alternating, with ice axe belay; for the first person in the team, crampons are recommended due to potential ice exposure on section 2–3.

For organizing a rappel, it is recommended to use the "shoe" rocks if the snow condition does not allow for a reliable anchor using an ice axe.

Further:

• bypassing the "shoe" from the left via a steep snowy couloir (section 3–4)
• exit under a vertical crack
• straight up the crack /section 4–5/, approximately 40 meters of medium-difficulty rock climbing, with complex sections /piton belay; placements/
• to a small platform /for 4 people/

From the platform, a diagonal crack leads up to the right. Continuing up the crack /section 5–6/: climbing is difficult, with piton belay, placements-