1. Climbing type: rock climbing
2. Climbing area: Caucasus, Tsey Gorge, Eastern spur of Kaltberg peak
3. Peak, route: Monakh (2760 m) via the left Southeastern edge
4. Estimated difficulty category: 5B, first ascent
5. Height difference: 460 m — of which the wall part is 410 m — total route length is 520 m — wall part length is 450 m — of which: 5 — 175 m

Russian Alpine Federation Classification Commission We request to include in the classification table a route to the peak Kaltberg East, 3300 m, with an ascent via the NE wall of Monakh (first ascent, approximately 5B category of difficulty), climbed by a team of instructors from the "Tsey" alpine camp during the III Championship of the Caucasian Territorial Administration of Alpine Camps in 1983 (rock climbing category). The ascent report was submitted at the time, but apparently was not reviewed due to technical reasons. Vice-President Alpinism Federation of Ukraine Zagirnyak M.V.

Ascent Passport

1. Ascent category: rock climbing
2. Ascent area: Caucasus, Tsey valley

PASSPORT

1. Rock climbing.
2. Caucasus, Tsey Gorge.
3. Mt. Passionaria, 4000 m via the chimney of the Western bastion wall and NW ridge.
4. Proposed: Category 5B difficulty for first ascent (second ascent).
5. Elevation gain 800 m, length 1150 m. Length of Category 5B–6 sections — 160 m. Average steepness of the main part of the route — 85° (3400–3560 m).
6. Pitons hammered: rock: 32, bolted: 0, chocks: 25, ice: 0.
7. Team's travel time — 9 hours.
8. Overnights — none.
9. Leader — Leonid Borisovich Volkov, Master of Sports.

Leaving the snowy couloir descending from the saddle between the peaks of Passionariya and Moskvich to the right, we move left and upwards in the direction of the snowfield descending from under the wall. On the left, there are two bivouac sites located under the wall on separate rocky pillars. There is no water, but snow and ice are available. After ascending 70–80 m up difficult rocks with piton protection, we reach an internal corner. Along the internal corner with an overhanging rock at 80–90°, we traverse right and upwards for 20 m across a greenish-gray slab to a chimney. The chimney is narrow and steep, 7–8 m (piton, ladders). From the chimney, we exit onto a ledge-platform 40 m, then left and upwards across difficult rocks to a slab (30 m, 70°) with a crack. Initially along the crack, then straight up (piton, wooden wedges). Above the slab, we move left and upwards across rocks of medium difficulty to an internal corner (almost a chimney with a breakage at the bottom, 60 m, 70–80°). From the internal corner, we exit onto a reddish, crumbly ledge 20 m, going left along the talus (traverse left 5–6 m). I control cairn. After the traverse, we ascend the wall 6–7 m (85–90°, bolted pitons) to a sheer internal corner 17–20 m, 80–85°. Above the corner is a small platform with smooth, crack-free slabs. From the platform, across smooth slabs 40 m, 80° left and upwards to a horizontal ledge. Along the ledge, we traverse left and, bypassing an overhanging internal corner, reach a vertical chimney (rocks are wet). Up the chimney 40 m to a smooth wall of gray-green color. It's better to go without backpacks and then organize their retrieval. The rocks are difficult, with few holds and cracks.

Route: "Central (Ryazan) via the North face" (via the left part of the North face) Mountain: Chatyntau, 4411 m Region: Bezengi Route characteristics: rock-ice Route elevation gain: 1100 m Route length: 1400 m Average slope: 55° Total climbing time: 30 hours Category: 6A Route author: Ryazan A.

96. Ronchetti Vostochnaya via North-Eastern wall (combined route, cat. 4A)

The path from the CSP of the Tsey district to the initial bivouac on the plateau of the Southern branch of the Tsey glacier under the North-Eastern wall of Vostochnaya Ronchetti. From the bivouac, across the plateau (closed crevices), approach the North-Eastern wall of Vostochnaya Rongetti peak. From the plateau, having passed the bergschrund, ascend to a steep snow-ice slope under the left side of the North-Eastern wall of Vostochnaya Rongetti. Then, along a steep 60–70-meter snow-ice slope, approach a 10–12-meter rock couloir wall of the North-Eastern wall. From the snow patch, ascend the 10–12-meter wall of moderate difficulty rocks to the right and upwards into the rock couloir. Ascend 60 m straight up through simple and moderately difficult rocks, possibly snow-covered, passing the wall on the left in the lower part. Further ascent:

• 100 m along steep moderately difficult rocks on the right side of the couloir (piton belay);
• 120 m along tile-like steep, above moderate difficulty, rocks of the wall («live» rocks, piton belay). Then, traverse 30–40 m through the couloir and two small ridges to the left into a wet but simpler couloir. From here:
• Ascend frozen and wet rocks of moderate and above moderate difficulty (piton belay) on the right side of the couloir to a rock plug;

Fig. 37 184. Ronketti Glavnaya — Vostochnaya (G. Maslov's combined route, category III, fig. 37). The path from the CSP of the Tsey region (group of 4–8 people) to Glavnaya Ronketti with the initial bivouac on the upper plateau of the Southern branch of the Tsey Glacier is described in routes 83, 179, 182. From the summit Glavnaya Ronketti, descend along the simple rocks of the Eastern ridge to a narrow snowy (cornice) col under the Vostochnaya tower. Beyond the col:

• ascend along the snowy, then rocky ridge to the Vostochnaya tower of the Glavnaya summit. From the Vostochnaya tower, descend 30–40 m along the gently sloping Eastern ridge. Then descend 70–80 m from the ridge to the right along a narrow, steep rocky couloir ("live" rocks — piton belay) to a rocky slope. Above the slope, exit the couloir and, after traversing a small ledge to the left, rappel 20 m down the wall to the slabs. Along the not steep slabs with many footholds, traverse to the left to the Eastern ridge and descend along the heavily destroyed rocky ridge to the sandy areas of the col between Glavnaya and Vostochnaya peaks of the Ronketti massif. Descent from the Vostochnaya tower is possible along the Eastern ridge with a 40 m rappel down the wall. From the col, ascend 50–60 m up the simple rocks of the Western ridge of the Vostochnaya Ronketti summit. Then, along a wide crack to the right of a narrow couloir, ascend a 25–30-meter wall (key point of the route — piton belay) to a ledge. From the ledge:

Russian Mountaineering Federation Russian Mountaineering Federation Protocol No. 382 dated April 5, 1974 Classify as Category 5A difficulty First Ascent 2.7.104 115 SKATIKOM

112. Songuti via the right buttress of the East face

5A cat. diff. From the "Volginskaya overnight stay" in the direction of the buttress, which descends lowest onto the plateau from the Songuti massif. The ascent to the Songuti wall is made along the ridge of the buttress, bypassing individual sections on the left. Rocks of medium difficulty. Along the rocks (300 m) to a wide snow-ice shelf at the base of the wall. Along the shelf left-down into the couloir. Up the couloir (50–60 m) to a small indentation on the right, at the beginning of the wall. From the indentation, ascend straight up the vertical wall (rocks are smooth, few ledges, rockfall hazard on the left!). Landmark: to the left of the wall, a narrow snow-ice couloir goes straight up to the shoulder of the buttress, turning into rocks in the upper part. Movement near the couloir is dangerous (rockfall, avalanches!). The path goes through the middle part of the wall along difficult rocks, requiring careful piton belay (150 m) to a small glaciated chimney. Along the chimney (20–25 m) to the ridge of the buttress. From the "Volginskaya overnight stay" to the ridge — 12–15 hours. Convenient sites. Control cairn. Overnight stay. From the overnight stay:

• left — up along the ridge (rocks of medium difficulty, protection via ledges) to a characteristic round stone (“balda”) like a "ram's forehead";
• bypassing the stone on the left onto the snow slope, leading under the summit tower of Songuti;

Ascent Passport

I. Ascent Class: Technical 2. Ascent Area: 2.7 3. Summit: Malaya Songuti 3800 m via Central Counterfort of the North Face 4. Proposed Difficulty Category: 4A 5. Route Nature: Height difference 500 m, average steepness 70–75°. Section length: II – 60 m, III – 260 m, IV – 290 m, V – 25 m 6. Pitons driven: For belay: Rock — 16 Boulder — 0