96. Ronchetti Vostochnaya via North-Eastern wall (combined route, cat. 4A)

The path from the CSP of the Tsey district to the initial bivouac on the plateau of the Southern branch of the Tsey glacier under the North-Eastern wall of Vostochnaya Ronchetti.

From the bivouac, across the plateau (closed crevices), approach the North-Eastern wall of Vostochnaya Rongetti peak. From the plateau, having passed the bergschrund, ascend to a steep snow-ice slope under the left side of the North-Eastern wall of Vostochnaya Rongetti. Then, along a steep 60–70-meter snow-ice slope, approach a 10–12-meter rock couloir wall of the North-Eastern wall. From the snow patch, ascend the 10–12-meter wall of moderate difficulty rocks to the right and upwards into the rock couloir.

Ascend 60 m straight up through simple and moderately difficult rocks, possibly snow-covered, passing the wall on the left in the lower part.

Further ascent:

• 100 m along steep moderately difficult rocks on the right side of the couloir (piton belay);
• 120 m along tile-like steep, above moderate difficulty, rocks of the wall («live» rocks, piton belay).

Then, traverse 30–40 m through the couloir and two small ridges to the left into a wet but simpler couloir.

From here:

• Ascend frozen and wet rocks of moderate and above moderate difficulty (piton belay) on the right side of the couloir to a rock plug;
• Bypass the plug on the right along the rocks of a smooth 10-meter wall (piton belay).

From the wall, ascend 150 m straight up a snow-ice slope with a rock island in the middle part (belay). Further ascent is 150 m along moderately difficult rocks with several 3–4-meter walls (piton belay) to Vostochnaya Rongetti. Bivouac on the summit. 10–14 hours from the plateau.

Descend via the Eastern ridge. The duration of the route is 3 days.