Route: "Central (Ryazan) via the North face" (via the left part of the North face) Mountain: Chatyntau, 4411 m Region: Bezengi

Route characteristics: rock-ice Route elevation gain: 1100 m Route length: 1400 m Average slope: 55° Total climbing time: 30 hours Category: 6A Route author: Ryazan A.

Team leader: Bulatov S.A., CMS (1975) Team members: Nazarov V.I., 1st sports category (1974) Evstafiev S.V., 1st sports category (1974) Pakhomov I.L., 1st sports category (1975) Vasyukov A.P., 1st sports category (1975) Departure to the route: July 22, 1976, 10:00 Summit arrival: July 24, 1976, 16:30 Return to camp: July 25, 1976, 10:00

Brief route description: The route starts on the Mizhirgi glacier at an altitude of 3300 m from the lower point of the North face of the Chatyntau massif in the area of R0. From the glacier, we ascend via a fine scree slope to R1. Section R1–R2: ice slope with a slope of 30–35°, followed by broken rocks up to 45°. Simultaneous movement. Insurance via ice screws. R1–R2 length 300 m. Section R2–R3: vertical ascent (up to 85–90°) via broken rocks with ice. Climbing 4–5 category, possibly 6th category. Insurance organization via pitons and закладки. Section length 100 m. Section R3–R4: ice-snow slope, slope up to 50°, with ropes hung in the upper part on rocks. Section length 200 m. Section R4–R5: broken rocks, average slope 55°. Simultaneous movement, insurance via закладки and loops. R4–R5 length 100 m. Section R5–R6: ice slope, slope up to 60°, up to 70° in the upper part. Simultaneous movement, insurance via ice screws. R5–R6 length 200 m. Section R6–R7: broken rocks, up to 70°. Climbing 5–6 category. R6–R7 length 200 m. Section R7–R8: snow slope with an exit to the ridge. R7–R8 length 200 m. Total time taken to complete the route: 30 hours.

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Figure 1. Photograph of the north face of Chatyntau with the route line superimposed